Shudder at 75mph?

[Bob 07064]

I wouldn't use balance beads on high mass wheels, personally. I've used them on several motorcycles with decent results, but I wouldn't use them on a heavy off-road wheel/tire.

I'm with ya there. Dyna beads work great on my bike, but a really big tire...

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[Sparkherd]

Do your balance beads look like this? If so that could be the issue.

Aha!
I see you know of the internet!

 

[Bradley Thornton]

I have aftermarket wheels and tires with balance beads. ~34" Toyo ATIII and Method wheels. Anyone else experiencing a high speed shudder with or without aftermarket wheels? The wheels have a much bigger than stock bore but I am using centering rings.

I had a problem like this a few times on my race car. In my case it was the bags not busting or just still having some stay in the bag I found the best results was to bust the bag and poor them in the inflate the tire the just add beads not the bag. Also as said already an over tongue wheel will cause this I alway bring my torque wrench and torque my own at the tire shop. Yep they probably hate me.

 

[Lcubed]

I agree, but that's like two of us. I have built engines and vehicles and know that using antiseize when dry is called for can result in higher applied torque than your wrench indicates. Or increased compression of the materials being clamped, which could be a worse outcome. That is one reason why engine bolts especially head are torqued in steps.

Using a lube on contact surfaces is a wise tactic, however, as I have had wheels on only 6 months require persuasion to be removed.

This is my first Ford or any vehicle with centering rings and I still am puzzled by Ford's use of these. I am not aware of any others that do not specify the internal hub diameter and shape to their wheel suppliers. Unless they are using so many different actual axle end sizes and using one wheel to fit all with several centering rings depending on application. And it seems like extra pieces when 6 or 8 tapered nuts in tapered holes at 150 ft-lb each would keep the wheels from moving even if there where an inch gap in the center. Or is it a case of the studs not being perfectly centered and thus the increased (as I see it) torque required since the studs are not perfectly centered in the wheel holes.

And if that be the case we should mark our wheels when we remove them and only reinstall in the exact position they came off

the OP states he’s got aftermarket wheels. i can’t imagine the ford stock wheels used a centering ring.

 

[NC_Pinz]

Right from Permatex...use caution if using "lube" and torquing to recommended specs.

This would only be true for people that don't use a torque wrench. Using a decent torque wrench, there is no way to over torque lug nuts. If you do it 'by feel', then the CYA note above would be true.

 

[rutherk1]

Did you have them road force balanced? My old FJ did this and the local tire place did a road force balance which fixed it. I dont think it has to do with torque specs.

 

[JohnnyBronco]

the OP states he’s got aftermarket wheels. i can’t imagine the ford stock wheels used a centering ring.

Centering rings or not, like you reaffirmed, OP has aftermarket wheels, which may or may not have been produced in a ISO 9001 facility.

I have seen wheels with slots instead of holes, designed to fit multiple bolt/stud spacing diameters and would never myself use them. Not saying at all this might be the case but not all "factories" are factories

 

[ATLBronco75]

Just to update this I got my first oil change and had the Ford dealership get rid of the beads and balance the tires normally. The shudder is gone and everything is fine. I would not recommend balance beads on truck tires.

 

[Snakebite]

Everyone talking about torque specs and I’m over here deciding if I’m gonna do 5 or 6 ugga duggas……

Glad your vibration is gone OP!

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