Seafoam / oil change

[Nc211]

First, I am NOT advocating for anyone to do this. I am simply showing my results. I have been doing this for the last 20 years on my cars (95 LS400, 05 4Runner V8, 06 Mazda 3, 03 Lexus GS430, 07/13/15 GTI, 08 Volvo XC90 V8, 13 Highlander, 14 Mercedes E350, 14 Tiquan, 20 Mercedes GLS 450) and have never once had a problem.

Every other oil change, I warm the car up, then put in about a cup of Seafoam into the engine oil, and I let it idle for about 20 minutes. Then I let it sit for a few hours to cool down and drain down. I always drain via pan plug, never been a fan of the MityVac routine (even though MB recommends it). No slight to it, just doesn’t scratch my OCD itch. I then sacrifice a quart of fresh oil to flush out the oil pan before I put the new plug back in.

A couple of weeks ago I did this on my Bronco at 10,000 miles total on the car. I did the initial change at 4k to get the break-in particles out (did tip-tail on all oils including trans at that time).

This photo is before / after of the Seafoam routine. The oil on the right after I warmed it up but before I added the Seafoam. The oil on the left is after I let it idle for 20 minutes with the Seafoam in the oil. I let it sit to cool, and when I drained it out, it was as dark as straight trucker’s coffee (one cup will get you through two states). She purrs like a kitten, just like all of the others always have for me over the years. I have never had any engine problems in any of my cars, other than the infamous faulty cam magnet seals on the MB E350 3.5 V6 that nearly all MB’s of that era have.

Not advocating. Not suggesting anyone do this. Not saying it makes a hill of beans difference for anything.. just showing the picture.

Oil: M1 5W30
Filter: Ford via the parts counter:

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[ksdon]

This is interesting as just this morning I was reading and trying to see benefits etc of Sea Foam and Techron.

Do you add just the one 16 ounce can when you do this?

 

[Nc211]

Thanks, I do like to do this. Comes from the old tried and true farmers and their 30 year old equipment. They were known to use a little bit of kerosene in the oil before a change to clean up any varnishing inside the engine. I think this is the exact same philosophy. I don’t do it every time though due to all of the sensors in our modern day engines, but have yet to ever have a sensor go bad in any of my cars.

I typically use about half the can, which amounts to a cup (8 ounces). On the wife’s Mercedes (GLS), I let our indi do the servicing, and will add it when I take the car over for the service. They know it’s in there and will let it sit on the rack for a while to drain down, and charge me for the extra quart of oil to flush the pan. Owner has a 20 year old G-wagon with about 250,000 miles on it and does the same.

 

[Montana Bronco]

Looks like my my 2 y/o’s underpants.

 

[adam1991]

I then sacrifice a quart of fresh oil to flush out the oil pan before I put the new plug back in.

So with the plug out, after you drain the Seafoam-infused oil, you then pour an extra quart in and let it run right through and out?

 

[Nc211]

So with the plug out, after you drain the Seafoam-infused oil, you then pour an extra quart in and let it run right through and out?

Yea, I’ll pour and quickly look under to see if it’s flushing out. On my Bronco, it seems to be about 1/2 a quart before it turns the same color as the new going in. That said, there is no doubt that I’ve not gotten it all out every time in every car, the odds are definitely against that, yet never had a problem with anything before. If I can get some of it out, I do it.

On my 07’ GTI, that engine had three notable flaws that if you didn’t catch would cause serious problems (2.0t FSI). The cam filler lobe for the high pressure fuel system, a stretching timing belt, and a clogged PCV. I bought that car as a CPO in 09’ w/ 40k on the clock. Changed the lobe (was actually ok) and had the timing belt replaced as part of the deal. Learned of the PCV later on. At 45k I checked it (a little piece with a metal bearing in). If you could hear the bearing rattling around, it was fine. I could not hear it very well. Soaked it in Seafoam for a few hours, flushed it out, and was back to new. Did the seafoam in oil routine as well, and it absolutely smoothed out that engine’s idle. Started much quicker too. Checked the PCV again at 70k and was still perfect. Seafoam/oil every 7,500 miles. Car still is running, I met the now 4th owner who bought it locally after I traded it in back in 12’ for the 13’ version. 175k miles so far (was about a year ago when I met the person in the Costco parking lot). Random, but recognized the one odd dent and asked her about it.

 

[wgw]

Interesting post, was curious if you do any lab testing of ur oil, prior to or at the change?

 

[Robs]

Interesting post, was curious if you do any lab testing of ur oil, prior to or at the change?

I historically used motor flush on all my cars just before or as part of an oil change. My Tacoma has 330,000 miles on it and still running strong. Never had any issues although I have not yet tried it on my Bronco.

 

[heavyD]

I've seen so many teardowns on high mileage engines that still look brand new inside that I think if you just change your oil with a quality oil within the manufacturer guidelines that you should have no issues over ownership. It's pretty rare these days that properly maintained engines fail due to improper lubrication or deposits being at fault, as it's usually defective parts, improper maintenance, or aftermarket modifications that lead to engine failure. However it's your car and if Seafoam works for you then that's great.

 

[GoHawks63]

Thanks, I do like to do this. Comes from the old tried and true farmers and their 30 year old equipment. They were known to use a little bit of kerosene in the oil before a change to clean up any varnishing inside the engine. I think this is the exact same philosophy. I don’t do it every time though due to all of the sensors in our modern day engines, but have yet to ever have a sensor go bad in any of my cars.

I typically use about half the can, which amounts to a cup (8 ounces). On the wife’s Mercedes (GLS), I let our indi do the servicing, and will add it when I take the car over for the service. They know it’s in there and will let it sit on the rack for a while to drain down, and charge me for the extra quart of oil to flush the pan. Owner has a 20 year old G-wagon with about 250,000 miles on it and does the same.

Interesting to hear about running kerosene in the oil and here is my story related to it.

I was in my final semester of college when I was in an accident that totaled my car.

My late uncle who was an auto mechanic who owned his own shop, was always buying and selling cars from and to customers. He had just purchased a '78 Chevy Impala 2-door (305 cu. in V8) from a lady who came into his shop. The car was not maintained at all and with 69K miles was burning oil pretty badly.

When he went to remove the valve covers he said there was about a quart of oil on each side that spilled out. There was sludge everywhere that was preventing the oil from draining down back into the pan and was seeping back down through the valve stem seals.

He cleaned it up, gave it a re-spray to freshen up the paint. Changed the fluids, but with the engine he mixed kerosene into the engine oil, would let it idle for a couple hours. He then drained it and repeated the process a few more times (can't remember how many).

I had approached him about buying the car, but he was initially hesitant. His concern was that after all that, it seemed as though the car was no longer consuming oil, but he was unsure how long that would be the case.

I told him that I understood, but I liked the car and understood what the potential risks were. Not to mention that I needed a car to get back and forth to classes. The car was pretty much a base car, but it had functioning A/C that my previous car did not have. He ended up selling it to me for only what he had put into the car ($2,500).

I drove that car 5 years putting on another 81K miles on it. Ended up then selling it for $1,000. It still ran great with the only issue being a puff of blue smoke after it had been sitting for a while, which meant that valve stems seals were in need of replacing.

 

[B22-2023]

Yea, I’ll pour and quickly look under to see if it’s flushing out. On my Bronco, it seems to be about 1/2 a quart before it turns the same color as the new going in. That said, there is no doubt that I’ve not gotten it all out every time in every car, the odds are definitely against that, yet never had a problem with anything before. If I can get some of it out, I do it.

On my 07’ GTI, that engine had three notable flaws that if you didn’t catch would cause serious problems (2.0t FSI). The cam filler lobe for the high pressure fuel system, a stretching timing belt, and a clogged PCV. I bought that car as a CPO in 09’ w/ 40k on the clock. Changed the lobe (was actually ok) and had the timing belt replaced as part of the deal. Learned of the PCV later on. At 45k I checked it (a little piece with a metal bearing in). If you could hear the bearing rattling around, it was fine. I could not hear it very well. Soaked it in Seafoam for a few hours, flushed it out, and was back to new. Did the seafoam in oil routine as well, and it absolutely smoothed out that engine’s idle. Started much quicker too. Checked the PCV again at 70k and was still perfect. Seafoam/oil every 7,500 miles. Car still is running, I met the now 4th owner who bought it locally after I traded it in back in 12’ for the 13’ version. 175k miles so far (was about a year ago when I met the person in the Costco parking lot). Random, but recognized the one odd dent and asked her about it.

First, I am NOT advocating for anyone to do this. I am simply showing my results. I have been doing this for the last 20 years on my cars (95 LS400, 05 4Runner V8, 06 Mazda 3, 03 Lexus GS430, 07/13/15 GTI, 08 Volvo XC90 V8, 13 Highlander, 14 Mercedes E350, 14 Tiquan, 20 Mercedes GLS 450) and have never once had a problem.

Every other oil change, I warm the car up, then put in about a cup of Seafoam into the engine oil, and I let it idle for about 20 minutes. Then I let it sit for a few hours to cool down and drain down. I always drain via pan plug, never been a fan of the MityVac routine (even though MB recommends it). No slight to it, just doesn’t scratch my OCD itch. I then sacrifice a quart of fresh oil to flush out the oil pan before I put the new plug back in.

A couple of weeks ago I did this on my Bronco at 10,000 miles total on the car. I did the initial change at 4k to get the break-in particles out (did tip-tail on all oils including trans at that time).

This photo is before / after of the Seafoam routine. The oil on the right after I warmed it up but before I added the Seafoam. The oil on the left is after I let it idle for 20 minutes with the Seafoam in the oil. I let it sit to cool, and when I drained it out, it was as dark as straight trucker’s coffee (one cup will get you through two states). She purrs like a kitten, just like all of the others always have for me over the years. I have never had any engine problems in any of my cars, other than the infamous faulty cam magnet seals on the MB E350 3.5 V6 that nearly all MB’s of that era have.

Not advocating. Not suggesting anyone do this. Not saying it makes a hill of beans difference for anything.. just showing the picture.

Oil: M1 5W30
Filter: Ford via the parts counter:

Long story for a coming-soon thread, but a good amount of antifreeze got into my crankcase. Misfire, overheating, etc. I researched Sea Foam then remembered your thread. I’m going to change the oil and filter, run it a few hundred miles, then Seafoam it and do another oil/filter change, including the extra quart to flush the pan, then take a long road trip. It’s all I can come up with for now.

 

[CalvinT]

I think the main thing is to just use a good oil and change it on a regular basis. Years ago (late 1970s) a friend bought a 1972 Dodge Demon with 340. It had around 80,000 miles and burned oil quite badly. The previous owner didn't seem to believe in changing the oil. On a trip to Disneyland from Phoenix, a little over 360 miles, it burned over a quart of oil.

When he bought the car he changed the oil using a good oil, Mystik JT-8, and changed it regularly. I don't remember the schedule, but probably every few thousand miles. Soon it stopped burning oil. At 120,000 miles he decided to rebuild the engine and make some changes (cam, etc). The engine was completely clean except for a spot of sludge in one rocker cover which he wiped away with his finger. He was too tight to buy any additives for the oil, but not too tight to buy good oil. He got a discount because he bought by the case. This was before synthetic oils.

The last I heard from him (around 1995), his Demon had 220,000 miles and was still running strong.

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