Removing inside rear qtr panel - video or illustration

[BroncoOB]

I am unsure why they put the wire to the Aux in such an awkward place. It should've been extended to the very back. It will not be easy, and I can see a few of these white clips break.

Well, I can get a few from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/OAUTOO-Retai...words=w721378-s300&qid=1735239648&sr=8-3&th=1

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[hilmar2k]

I am notoriously terrible at removing body panels without breaking anything, and I removed and reinstalled that panel fairly easily. I just started at the rear and worked my way forward one clip at at time. Reinstallation was super easy, which I was not expecting.

 

[Ramble_Offroad]

Thanks.

I just pulled gently and the top section popped open. I didn’t have to completely remove the panel, just enough to peel it back.

 

[DaveInSA]

Be prepared to break some of those stupid way too expensive white plastic clips!
Grrr...
Anyone know of a place to get a handful of them for NOT ridiculous money?

Wonder if I can 3d print one... Just reu

Regardless of color:

The “old” style are like a button: part of the clip stays in the body panel and snaps to part that stays on the trim piece.

The new style is one piece - and a complete pain to pull out with some of the plastic trim being plastic-rivets and what not. It’s a lot stronger fastener. Much easier to install though

In my experience, the part that should stay in the body breaks

 

[CalvinT]

If you can pull as close to the fastener as you can get you might get lucky. Have e6000 glue and/or a plastic welding kit standing by for that damned part that is plastic riveted together - for me that always goes before the new fastener pops out

I have the blue fasteners. Got them all to release except for the part you're referring to. I've discovered that 3M DP8005 or DP8010 will glue the part back onto the panel. Use the broken rivets to get the part in the right position. You'll find the part and the panel touch over about 2 sq inches. Put the 3M stuff there. The DP8010 is probably better because it has a little more body, but either will work. 3M sells a gun to apply them but since you're only doing one repair, buy the tube and mix the stuff manually at 50/50. It will be stronger than the plastic. The stuff is expensive though, around $55 on Amazon.

I have an appointment with my dealer on Wednesday, I'm going to see if I can get them to cover it under warranty. The theory being that Ford intends the owner to remove the panel to reach the upfitter wire. Therefore Ford should design it so you don't have to be a trained service tech to remove the panel without breaking it.

Apply glue to the area where I put orange tape then apply light pressure until glue sets. Location not critical.

 

[23OBX2.7]

I have the blue fasteners. Got them all to release except for the part you're referring to. I've discovered that 3M DP8005 OR DP8010 will glue the part back onto the panel. Use the broken rivets to get the part in the right position. You'll find the part and the panel touch over about 2 sq inches. Put the 3M stuff there. The DP8010 is probably better because it has a little more body, but either will work. 3M sells a gun to apply them but since you're only doing one repair, buy the tube and mix the stuff manually at 50/50. It will be stronger than the plastic. The stuff is expensive though, around $55 on Amazon.

I have an appointment with my dealer on Wednesday, I'm going to see if I can get them to cover it under warranty. The theory being that Ford intends the owner to remove the panel to reach the upfitter wire. Therefore Ford should design it so you don't have to be a trained service tech to remove the panel without breaking it.

Apply glue to the area where I put orange tape then apply light pressure until glue sets. Location not critical.

Designed to be single use so can sell $0.06 clips for $10 just like 0.15 bolts for $14. The two piece clips are great.

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