Recommendations to improve long term reliability?

[adam1991]

For me, premium fuel has absolutely nothing do with octane

Which is good, but now you're the equivalent of being in American speaking Chinese to people from France. YOU know what you're saying, but others think otherwise--because octane level is how the fuel industry has defined "premium" for...how many years?...as a way to con people into thinking it's "better" and therefore pay more for it.

You're absolutely right to focus on Costco gas. I love the attitude on road trips!

Sponsored

 

[2021FordBronco2]

Don’t put 75 pound mud terrains on it.

Come on, how am I supposed to put 37s on it to flex at the Costco parking lot?

 

[CalvinT]

For me, premium fuel has absolutely nothing do with octane, although I do use the highest octane.

Personally, I use Kirkland Signature (Costco) exclusively. Aside from the poison the dealer filled my Bronco with to roll me off the lot, there's never been a drop of anything else in it, or any of my vehicles. OCD had me considering trying to syphon it out, LOL.

In fact, most road trips and outings are planned around Costco locations. You absolutely cannot beat having access to a relatively clean bathroom, a hotdog and a coke for $1.50, and a refill on gasoline.

In a pinch, I might consider Chevron, but haven't had to.

Too poor to buy cheap? Love it!

Many years ago (pre catalytic converters) premium or high test gasoline often had a better detergent and additive package than regular gasoline. That's no longer true.

Look for Top Tier gasoline. Because of EPA rules gasoline formulations vary depending on location, time of year and altitude, but not by brand. All gas is the same until it gets a brand name and additive packages are added. Shop price and additive package. Top Tier is the best. All the majors, Chevron, Shell, Texaco, Costco, Arco, Exxon, etc. offer it. Look for a Top Tier label on the pump. If it's not there, keep looking.

https://www.toptiergas.com/about-top-tier/

 

[FreddieLee]

Many years ago (pre catalytic converters) premium or high test gasoline often had a better detergent and additive package than regular gasoline. That's no longer true.

Look for Top Tier gasoline. Because of EPA rules gasoline formulations vary depending on location, time of year and altitude, but not by brand. All gas is the same until it gets a brand name and additive packages are added. Shop price and additive package. Top Tier is the best.

https://www.toptiergas.com/about-top-tier/

Miss the part where I use Costco? They’re on the Top Tier list.

 

[CalvinT]

Miss the part where I use Costco? They’re on the Top Tier list.

They're definitely on the Top Tier list. I think Costco was an early adapter of Top Tier. I've modified my post. I've notice they're typical 50 cents a gallon cheaper than surrounding stations. Several times a week Costco comparison shops within a several mile radius. Also Costco runs their auto centers on a cost basis. They're not a profit center. Costco considers tire and gasoline sales to be a member benefit.

 

[Nc211]

It's all about the fluids. After about 5k miles or so, I'd pull the front & rear diff gear oil to get the wear-in particles out of there, and the transfer case. All 3 are easy and there are threads on here to show you how (it's easy). If you want to be super retentive, if you have an automatic, I would upgrade the pan to a drain/fill from PPE around the same mileage too. I did mine and was surprised at how dirty the filter was and had some initial wear-in sparkle/shavings on the pan magnet. The diff/transfer case is easy. The trans pan isn't hard, but is certainly more involved and will need some tools to do it (ford fill tube, pressurize container, 6 or 7 quarts of new Mercon ULV fluid, floor jack with wood stud to lift up the transmission at the mount a couple of inches to make the new pan slide in place). Messy, but not insanely complicated for the mid-tier DIY'er (which is me). Maybe overkill on all of this, especially the transmission fluid, but I'm like you, I plan on keeping mine for a very very long time, relegated to weekend toy at some point in the future.

 

[adam1991]

Many years ago (pre catalytic converters) premium or high test gasoline often had a better detergent and additive package than regular gasoline. That's no longer true.

Great point. I was going to say that, and got distracted.

Basically, in the late (?) 80s (?), the feds put the hammer down and stopped Shell's practice (for example) of making you buy higher octane fuel in order to get the cleaning additives. They specified a minimum amount of cleaners for every grade.

Not a bad thing, but of course there was room for improvement on this new level playing field. Enter Top Tier gas.

 

[CalvinT]

Basically, in the late (?) 80s (?), the feds put the hammer down and stopped Shell's practice (for example) of making you buy higher octane fuel in order to get the cleaning additives.

Chevron was doing the same thing.

 

[adam1991]

I think Costco was an early adapter of Top Tier. I've modified my post. I've notice they're typical 50 cents a gallon cheaper than surrounding stations.

for a good reason--they do something NO ONE else does. And frankly, I'm surprised.

I had a dude on another forum tell me "that's impossible, I've been in the fuel business for 30 years, nobody does it like that, doesn't happen, you don't know what you're talking about".

Huh:

https://web.archive.org/web/2019012...DEF/Fuel Additives_Hurlocker_2013_Tuesday.pdf

 

[adam1991]

Come on, how am I supposed to put 37s on it to flex at the Costco parking lot?

...and be able to cut those corners and go over the curbs on a Saturday afternoon in the crowded lot?

 

[2021FordBronco2]

...and be able to cut those corners and go over the curbs on a Saturday afternoon in the crowded lot?

You're right, I forgot that as well.

 

[2021FordBronco2]

It's all about the fluids. After about 5k miles or so, I'd pull the front & rear diff gear oil to get the wear-in particles out of there, and the transfer case. All 3 are easy and there are threads on here to show you how (it's easy). If you want to be super retentive, if you have an automatic, I would upgrade the pan to a drain/fill from PPE around the same mileage too. I did mine and was surprised at how dirty the filter was and had some initial wear-in sparkle/shavings on the pan magnet. The diff/transfer case is easy. The trans pan isn't hard, but is certainly more involved and will need some tools to do it (ford fill tube, pressurize container, 6 or 7 quarts of new Mercon ULV fluid, floor jack with wood stud to lift up the transmission at the mount a couple of inches to make the new pan slide in place). Messy, but not insanely complicated for the mid-tier DIY'er (which is me). Maybe overkill on all of this, especially the transmission fluid, but I'm like you, I plan on keeping mine for a very very long time, relegated to weekend toy at some point in the future.

I think I would want to do the trans pan if it will extend the life of the trans. I know that it is a "learning" trans but currently it has some clunky shifts sometimes, I am hoping when it is fully broken in it smooths it's shifts out. It definitely has me a little nervous about the trans.

 

[Nc211]

I think I would want to do the trans pan if it will extend the life of the trans. I know that it is a "learning" trans but currently it has some clunky shifts sometimes, I am hoping when it is fully broken in it smooths it's shifts out. It definitely has me a little nervous about the trans.

It's helped mine, but she's no Lexus either. Still get a little kick/click when she hasn't fully warmed up in the lower gears, but much better. When warm, it's smooth as glass through everything. Really only time I hear anything is when I put it into park sometime, I hear a click/clank.

What really surprised me during my DIY was how full the diff's and transfer case were from the factory. They weren't! I'd say 60%-75% full. So glad I did it. Mine appears to be a one-off scenario though as nobody else appears to have had the same issue.

There are several threads, this is the one I engaged on for my DIY. A couple of pictures of what the transmission fluid looked like at 4k initial break-in. Still red as a cherry, but the filter was black and you can see some of the shiny flecks, and the magnet was coated.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...l-filters-fluids-oil-changes-etc.86135/page-6

 

[2021FordBronco2]

It's helped mine, but she's no Lexus either. Still get a little kick/click when she hasn't fully warmed up in the lower gears, but much better. When warm, it's smooth as glass through everything. Really only time I hear anything is when I put it into park sometime, I hear a click/clank.

What really surprised me during my DIY was how full the diff's and transfer case were from the factory. They weren't! I'd say 60%-75% full. So glad I did it. Mine appears to be a one-off scenario though as nobody else appears to have had the same issue.

There are several threads, this is the one I engaged on for my DIY. A couple of pictures of what the transmission fluid looked like at 4k initial break-in. Still red as a cherry, but the filter was black and you can see some of the shiny flecks, and the magnet was coated.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...l-filters-fluids-oil-changes-etc.86135/page-6

As long as it's smooth when it is warmed up it will probably be better than the 5 speed auto in my Acura as that was also very clunky. Did you change the Trans filter and do anything to clean the magnet? Only used to the drain and fill of the Acura's trans.

 

[TrackDays&TrailRigs]

Congrats on the new Bronco and welcome to the club. I’ll offer my maintenance schedule as it’s worked great for my Badlands so far and previously for my Fiesta ST that saw a fair amount of track time.

- Break-in engine oil change at 350
- Break-in oil change (engine, transmission, transfer case, axles) at 1200

- Engine Oil/filter change and tire rotation every 4k
- Engine air filter every 8k
- Driveline fluid change, fresh spark plugs, and new cabin filter every 24k

I’ll perform an inspection on the suspension and brakes, when I rotate the tires and anytime before/after I hit the trails. (Looking for any play in the suspension arms/links, hubs, and ball joints.)

Otherwise I run top tier 93 octane fuel, stay on top of my tire pressures, and drive the heck out of it!

Cheers

Sponsored