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Pulling Telematics Modem Fuse 20 under dash

Mammal

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Pulled the fuse 20, didn’t notice any issues except a “service vehicle soon” light came on after a couple restarts/drives.

Put fuse back in, no more service light
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FordFamily4Fun

FordFamily4Fun

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Pulled the fuse 20, didn’t notice any issues except a “service vehicle soon” light came on after a couple restarts/drives.

Put fuse back in, no more service light
Sounds great! Can you delete the needs service light via the dash controls or infotainment? I'll look into that. I was also thinking of pulling the three prong fuse and cutting the one metal barb that goes to fuse 20 (having a spare on hand if problems) to see if that would do the trick. You know you have disconnected the modem via the fuse if you go to the infotainment system and try the Ford connectivity and just get an ongoing circle. As I understand it Bluetooth and Android Auto/Apple Carplay will still work fine. They are another data mining nightmare in themselves, but I have already worked around that with my Pixel, where I wiped Big Brother Android and flashed privacy GrapheneOS.
https://grapheneos.org/
 

Mammal

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Don’t think you can delete the light without some tool. Full disclosure, I admittedly did not walk around to check the lights. It’s possible that’s when the service vehicle light came on ( it was dark when it illuminated)

Sounds great! Can you delete the needs service light via the dash controls or infotainment? I'll look into that. I was also thinking of pulling the three prong fuse and cutting the one metal barb that goes to fuse 20 (having a spare on hand if problems) to see if that would do the trick. You know you have disconnected the modem via the fuse if you go to the infotainment system and try the Ford connectivity and just get an ongoing circle. As I understand it Bluetooth and Android Auto/Apple Carplay will still work fine. They are another data mining nightmare in themselves, but I have already worked around that with my Pixel, where I wiped Big Brother Android and flashed privacy GrapheneOS.
https://grapheneos.org/
 
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FordFamily4Fun

FordFamily4Fun

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Don’t think you can delete the light without some tool. Full disclosure, I admittedly did not walk around to check the lights. It’s possible that’s when the service vehicle light came on ( it was dark when it illuminated)
Appreciate it. One way or another I will figure this out as I like a challenge,
 

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tock13

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Interesting thread. I’m watching. My bronco sits in a metal building and I can’t remote start it and it tells me it has no GPS signal when I go down to start it. Ford pass can’t find it either if I get in before it refreshes my location. So it must be offline in there. Could this be as easy as taking some of that foil @Squatch has on those bananas and wrapping the antennas?
 
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FordFamily4Fun

FordFamily4Fun

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Interesting thread. I’m watching. My bronco sits in a metal building and I can’t remote start it and it tells me it has no GPS signal when I go down to start it. Ford pass can’t find it either if I get in before it refreshes my location. So it must be offline in there. Could this be as easy as taking some of that foil @Squatch has on those bananas and wrapping the antennas?
GPS is passive in that you can't track someone by GPS via the satellite. You need that person transmitting their GPS location - either by car modem or cell phone. As I posted, I have taken care of my cell phone for all this data brokering/selling of personal info. I'm trying to figure an easy enough fix for the Bronco so everyone can do it. If not, I'm pulling apart the dash, pulling out the infotainment system and yanking the modem behind it. If that throws a permanent service alert, so be it. It seems as simple as pulling fuse 20 under the dash, which will give you a permanent service alert but your lights may not work/Bronco may not start because Ford does not want to make it that easy, but I'll look around a little more for a way that does not throw that alert where the Bronco works fine. Otherwise the dash comes apart.
 
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CalvinT

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It seems as simple as pulling fuse 20 under the dash, which will give you a permanent service alert but your lights may not work
Buy a 5 Amp micro 3 fuse, the same that's in F19/20. There are two links in the fuse. One is F19, the other is F20. Cut one of the links. Plug in the fuse so the intact link is in the F19 position. That will disable the Telematics modem. Your lights will still work.

Micro 3 fuses have three pins. The center pin is common. In this case the contact for the center pin is always hot. The outside pins are fuses for two different circuits. In this case, one is F19, the other is F20.

According to the printed manual, F8/9 is a spare fuse. Only one side of F21/22 is used. Both are micro 3 5A fuses.
 
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Ogre

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I haven't messed with 3 prong fuses.... but will a normal mini 2 prong fuse fit in the slots for the side you want to work? Or are they different sizes?

I didn't know this was a thing, did I not read the fine print? How is it permissible for them to gather our data to make more money after we already paid a kings ransom to drive it? First new car and I am starting to wish I had bought a EB instead. My 78 F-150 pissed off the wife and neighbors but I had a blast.
 

Calm horse

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I knew I signed my rights away when I agreed to to the FordPass! Does it still take info if I didnt? Not that I really care anymore, everything in our houses are doing it...tvs..refrigerators...phones..thermostats..ring cameras and doorbells....
Now if I can only find the airtag my wife hid in vehicle!
 

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hamburgler46

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Thanks for the post. Very curious and watching this thread
 

Dmorty217

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Also watching, was just thinking about how to accomplish this last week.
 

CalvinT

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I haven't messed with 3 prong fuses.... but will a normal mini 2 prong fuse fit in the slots for the side you want to work? Or are they different sizes?
That's a good idea. I hadn't thought of that. It looks like one will.

Note that these are micro fuses, not mini fuses.

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Screen Shot 2024-05-04 at 8.57.52 AM.png
 

CalvinT

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Here's more complete documentation.
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