Need help, best way to fix?!?!?

[swami37]

A die grinder and about 5 minutes to fix. Not a big deal to my eye

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[flip]

@flip your thoughts?

Ford’s fault, Ford’s dime. 100% guarantee the people on the line saw this, knew it was a defect and ran it home anyway. No f’s given.

Probably going to require plates drilled out and new ones (if available) resistance welded/glued in then rails repainted.

 

[ToddReynolds]

Ford’s fault, Ford’s dime. 100% guarantee the people on the line saw this, knew it was a defect and ran it home anyway. No f’s given.

Probably going to require plates drilled out and new ones (if available) resistance welded/glued in then rails repainted.

I agree, it lookeds like they had to almost get the bolts in sideways to make it happen and also scratched the rear pillar on the opposite side. Spoke with service this morning, was told they would call me back after they speak with my salesman to see if they want me to bring by to see it or just schedule a time to drop it off for repair. I will keep you posted. I understand things happen but agree that they saw and knew this was an issue and it sucks that they still pushed it through instead of making it right before it was shipped out. Sucks having to get body and paint work done to a brand new vehicle.

 

[flip]

I kinda ran through the body section of the parts catalogue and didn't find these plates available by themselves but the piece in the diagram below might be it. Not sure if that's a glue on, bolt on or weld on piece.

 

[ToddReynolds]

I kinda ran through the body section of the parts catalogue and didn't find these plates available by themselves but the piece in the diagram below might be it. Not sure if that's a glue on, bolt on or weld on piece.

I spoke with service manager and he scheduled for me to bring it by in July 31st for them to take a look at it and see what they are going to do. I offered to bring it by same.day with the top off so they could see it and that's what I got. I guess we will see what they say. Do you have a part number for that piece? I would like to be prepared as possible when I go in there so they don't try and tell me it can't be done or is a huge undertaking, etc. Any information I can bring with me is much appreciated, thanks again.

 

[flip]

I spoke with service manager and he scheduled for me to bring it by in July 31st for them to take a look at it and see what they are going to do. I offered to bring it by same.day with the top off so they could see it and that's what I got. I guess we will see what they say. Do you have a part number for that piece? I would like to be prepared as possible when I go in there so they don't try and tell me it can't be done or is a huge undertaking, etc. Any information I can bring with me is much appreciated, thanks again.

The description on these says," MEMBER ASSY - FLOOR SIDE" which is odd considering where the diagram shows they're located.
Right M2DZ-7810116-B
Left M2DZ-7810117-B

 

[Fly by Nite]

I kinda ran through the body section of the parts catalogue and didn't find these plates available by themselves but the piece in the diagram below might be it. Not sure if that's a glue on, bolt on or weld on piece.

The big questions are whether the nuts are part of the panel, and whether they 'float' in a cage or are securely attached to the panel. And finally, are they accessible by removing interior panels.

Cage nuts are often used, for example, on door hinge mounts so there is some adjustability. Loosen the bolts, and the nut floats in a cage. This allows door position to be adjusted. Here's a pic of a typical cage nut:

When I picked up my 2 door a few weeks ago, the passenger side door was 'closed too far'. The door was in almost 1/8" from the rear quarter. I fixed it myself by removing the door striker and moving the backing nut plate out until the door and qtr panel were aligned.
The backing nut did not easily adjust. I had to thread in a bolt and use a slide hammer to move the nut plate into position.
It's possible your tech may be able to do something similar. But if the 'cage' is welded in the wrong position, it may be a more difficult repair.

If the roof lines up well, they could just open up the sheetmetal hole with a die grinder to clear the bolt. That would be best case.

 

[ToddReynolds]

The nuts are welded to the panel, they are not floating. Bronco is at Ford body shop now to be fixed. I am not the first one they have had to fix as multiple have come off the assembly line like this apparently. If you haven't removed your top yet I would definitely check out and make sure all of your netserts are lined up correctly and there aren't any issues.

 

[JT58Bronc]

Tolerance stack up and/or the top did not fit as intended possibly due to another unrelated defect. Or the hole/nut locations could be out of tolerance although I doubt it. The clearance holes are oversized to allow for stack up although yours seems extreme for some reason. I agree with die grinder to open up the holes at the interference areas and be done with it.

 

[mikeeshim]

I think the 2024s are under warranty. Take it back.

 

[ToddReynolds]

They are fixing it at no cost, they have it now

 

[userdude]

Duct tape'll fix it.

 

[ToddReynolds]

Finally got back from the dealership. They did a great job repairing/replacing the damaged piece and getting everything lined up however after further inspection, when I got home, I noticed there is now bare metal on the inside of that fender, it looks like the grinded the paint off and then never resprayed the inside of the panel. I am hesitant to take back for this because while they fixed the initial problem they also created another one. I definitely don't want it to rust from the inside out

 

[CarGuy]

I would use a Dremel and cautiously open the top layer of the sheet metal just enough to accommodate the bolt. But first see what the dealer says.

If you do open it yourself, don’t forget to touch-up pain the exposed metal.

 

[604Bronco]

Finally got back from the dealership. They did a great job repairing/replacing the damaged piece and getting everything lined up however after further inspection, when I got home, I noticed there is now bare metal on the inside of that fender, it looks like the grinded the paint off and then never resprayed the inside of the panel. I am hesitant to take back for this because while they fixed the initial problem they also created another one. I definitely don't want it to rust from the inside out

If they damaged it while repairing, I’d take it back. They should be able to properly touch that up with paint/clear coat to protect is.

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