MPG

[Valhalla]

2dr Badsquatch, Procal, 93 octane 37s, 2 winches, tire delete rear sat delete heavy bumpers and recovery doodads. 15.1/15.4 I drive it how I enjoy it... smiles per gallon currently matter more.

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[ace1885]

2025 Big Bend 2.3 fully stock,did a 1000km trip last month mostly highway average speed 106kmp,averaged 9.4 litres per 100 km
Works out to 25 MPG.
Its my wifes daily driver she commutes everyday into the city combo of city and highway it averages 12litres per100km doing that(19mpg)

 

[Valhalla]

If you get the fusion wheel tire combo it gets 33+ mpg.

 

[Willub]

Checking in here. I am constantly amazed at the mileage I am getting. 4dr heritage 7mt with 1800 mi on the odometer. Averaging 22 combined. More around town than highway recently. I do coast down big hills and try to shift out of 1st/2nd/3rd by 1900-2200 rpm, but aside from that I drive pretty normally.

You coast down hills? As in, put it in neutral? If so, that’s worse for MPG and your brakes.

If you’re shifting out of 2nd and 3rd around 2k, you’re lugging the shit out of it in the next gear. Higher RPM is safer and more efficient than lower RPM and more load/boost.

 

[KreeHBronco]

I lean forward when I drive, so I think it helps me get better mpg.

 

[Oldhippie]

My 2 dr 2.7 Sasquatch got 18 when stock now it gets 14…guess I need them new Calif tires…

 

[Vynull]

You coast down hills? As in, put it in neutral? If so, that’s worse for MPG and your brakes.

If you’re shifting out of 2nd and 3rd around 2k, you’re lugging the shit out of it in the next gear. Higher RPM is safer and more efficient than lower RPM and more load/boost.

Uh, no? Explain to me how a numerically higher rpm is better for efficiency. Also...autos don't have engine braking really and they get along just fine with ya know, using the brakes for what they are for.

As for shifting...that schedule is EXACTLY what the 10 speed auto is trying to do. Riding the torque wave is proven by every manufacturer to be the most efficient means of accelerating a small turbocharged engine. I know what lugging is and I am not doing that. Obviously I adjust for conditions like hills and such. Also I am barely cracking throttle and I seldom if ever get into positive pressure when rowing gears from a stop. Maybe with the way you drive (it sounds like a lot more aggressively from a stop) winding it out works. But not for me, thanks.

 

[Valhalla]

Saw 7k rpm on the atlas cross sport the other week. Gouged on it in sport mode, it decided to eat the Rev limiter instead of shifting.

 

[Willub]

Uh, no? Explain to me how a numerically higher rpm is better for efficiency. Also...autos don't have engine braking really and they get along just fine with ya know, using the brakes for what they are for.

As for shifting...that schedule is EXACTLY what the 10 speed auto is trying to do. Riding the torque wave is proven by every manufacturer to be the most efficient means of accelerating a small turbocharged engine. I know what lugging is and I am not doing that. Obviously I adjust for conditions like hills and such. Also I am barely cracking throttle and I seldom if ever get into positive pressure when rowing gears from a stop. Maybe with the way you drive (it sounds like a lot more aggressively from a stop) winding it out works. But not for me, thanks.

Jeez.

You’re not using fuel while engine braking. You’re using fuel if you pop it in to neutral and idle the engine while coasting down a hill.

I get worse MPG at 70mph on flat ground in 6th than I do in 5th. Always have with 7mt badlands gearing. Going to larger tires exacerbated this. 6th is useless to me now. Trying to chug it along at 2k rpm on the highway at 3-5 PSI is horrendous for MPG. 2500ish RPM in 5th with no boost nets better MPG for me. This topic is not new so I’m sure plenty of 7mt owners have the same findings.

Comparing the 10at shift schedule to what you do with the 7mt doesn’t make sense. The 10at can run lower RPM since it has greater reduction with 4 more gears and a torque converter. They are not comparable. There are also people on here that find running the 10at in Sport mode actually increases MPG because it holds gears longer.

 

[rayhil67]

Sure Im going to spark debate with this but every 3,000 miles I use Royal Purple 18000 Fuel Injector Cleaner with PEA. And you can see and feel the difference. Also once a month I add Rislone Hy-per Fuel to a tank of gas. My22 2dr 2.7 gets little over 23mpg for daily commute and on my monthly ACNJ trip I can get over 24 if no head wind and I cruise around 65

 

[Vynull]

Jeez.

You’re not using fuel while engine braking. You’re using fuel if you pop it in to neutral and idle the engine while coasting down a hill.

I get worse MPG at 70mph on flat ground in 6th than I do in 5th. Always have with 7mt badlands gearing. Going to larger tires exacerbated this. 6th is useless to me now. Trying to chug it along at 2k rpm on the highway at 3-5 PSI is horrendous for MPG. 2500ish RPM in 5th with no boost nets better MPG for me. This topic is not new so I’m sure plenty of 7mt owners have the same findings.

Comparing the 10at shift schedule to what you do with the 7mt doesn’t make sense. The 10at can run lower RPM since it has greater reduction with 4 more gears and a torque converter. They are not comparable. There are also people on here that find running the 10at in Sport mode actually increases MPG because it holds gears longer.

While you are technically correct, that engine braking uses no fuel (subject to a bunch of variables, including catalytic converter temperature and more) and idling does use fuel, it is a miniscule amount. If I have the opportunity to coast for quite a distance in neutral, I'll take it. If I know I have a stop coming up, of course I'll use engine braking to slow down. It's entirely situational.

Your assertion that 10at shift strategy doesn't apply to transmissions with less gears makes no sense. By your estimation the zf 8 speed in my BMW should shift at a higher rpm because it has less gears - right? The torque converter is locked up once you are in 2nd or 3rd at which point it acts like a manual in that the torque multiplication is gone. At that point it is still trying to achieve the lowest rpm possible without lugging, just as I am.

Sure on the highway sport mode is achieving better mpg because it isn't trying to hold the lowest gear once elevation changes, but that achievement in efficiency is based entirely on driving style. If that same person didn't try to maintain or increase speed on uphill grades and instead focused on not dipping into boost, they would achieve much greater efficiency.

All that to say, the strategies I am employing are working for me and my driving style. Ymmv.

 

[BroncoChallenger]

Normal. It takes more horsepower to push through the air at those speeds.
The sweet spot for my 2 door 2.7 BaseSquatch is 63 MPH, about 22 mpg. Starts dropping above tat speed, 21 at 65 mph.

This is about what our '24 BD SAS does. On rural highways (marked 55-65) it gets its best mileage, I've seen as high as 23 if I'm running about 58 mpg. Above 65 (expressways) it begins to tank, at 70+ you can forget about the first number being a 2, it's definitely going to be a 1.

In town I've seen 18-19 at most, but that's mostly because it's stop/go, decel/accel quite a bit, which eats gas.

 

[chopperbobby]

I always use the restroom before driving. Every oz counts. Anthing over 17 moh is money in my pocket. Dont trust xomputer it is always higher than actual mpg. I use carfax app to track fuel. Easy to use and you can look back at history
Did not buy for gas savings. I like making the dinosaur dying have meaning

 

[Valhalla]

An engine running burns fuel...braking or idling, I'm out.

 

[vrtical]

An engine running burns fuel...braking or idling, I'm out.

brake regen FTW lol

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