Exactly. Increasing the gain also increases the sensitivity of the radio's volume knob, making it more difficult to fine tune the audio level.
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Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!
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Frankie945 said:
You don’t need forscan if you get the kicker key you can turn the rears up loud as you want with the rear gain on the amp.
Yes. Removing the Ford equalization will send a true signal to the amp.
You don’t need forscan if you get the kicker key you can turn the rears up loud as you want with the rear gain on the amp.
Yes. Removing the Ford equalization will send a true signal to the amp.
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So 2 years ago I started this adventure... I think I read too fast and didn’t understand everything. I made the EQ change in FORScan, didn’t notice a difference and gave up. Even though I’d bought several items…
Anyway, recently realized my mistake, made a couple more FORScan changes, and now have better sound. Time to install the 200.4 amp! But I don’t have a subwoofer or amp for the back yet. I have what’s in the picture (already installed Kicker speakers in the factory locations) and I don’t remember what my plan was… (what is this LC2i thing??)
Think I’ll be able to run everything through the vehicle and it'll work? Or will a lack of sub and amp throw some error and I’ll be soundless until I get a sub/amp?
Anyway, recently realized my mistake, made a couple more FORScan changes, and now have better sound. Time to install the 200.4 amp! But I don’t have a subwoofer or amp for the back yet. I have what’s in the picture (already installed Kicker speakers in the factory locations) and I don’t remember what my plan was… (what is this LC2i thing??)
Think I’ll be able to run everything through the vehicle and it'll work? Or will a lack of sub and amp throw some error and I’ll be soundless until I get a sub/amp?
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It’ll be fine.
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I’ve got sound! Not sure all is working correctly… After setup the happy tones never quit until I unplugged the amp. I plugged it back in and all seems well. Did that by any chance just undo all the setup? Also, the power light on the amp never turned off. Is that normal? I wouldn’t think so…
I pressed the Radio Detect button so it’s out. Amp turned off after a minute, but a little pop went through the speakers at the same time.
I pressed the Radio Detect button so it’s out. Amp turned off after a minute, but a little pop went through the speakers at the same time.
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Line Output Converter (LOC). It is used to convert the audio signal from the front speakers to the form required by the subwoofer amplifier.
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So with that thing, connect the amp to it, run power to the amp, connect a subwoofer and I’m good to go?
That's it. See Adding a 7 Speaker Sub to a 2022 Base 6 Speaker Radio. The 4 door speaker box fits in a two door if you want to go that route. Lots of them for sale on Ebay. My 2022 even had the mounting studs when I took off the quarter trim panel.
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I'm looking at this exact same kit, how do you like it? I already upgraded all the speakers to Alpine S2s, including replacing the rear pods with 6.5'' and it already sounds much better. I'm debating on one of the Musway options for more power, but even with the stock amp it gets plenty loud. Just looking more for a DSP upgrade than anything, then eventually upgraded the stock sub.
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Has anyone used anything besides a kicker key amp? I despise that brand. I’m a huge RF fan though and would love to use an amp by D’Amore engineering like the e660.5 to power everything. Has anyone successfully used anything other than the kicker stuff?
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Claude helped
Alternatives to the Kicker Key 200.4 for 2021+ Bronco
AudioControl ACM-4.300 - most commonly cited direct swap
Closest comparison to the Key 200.4. Similar in size and mounts in the same locations (under the steering wheel, etc.). More powerful than the Key. The tradeoff is no built-in DSP, but with FORScan tweaks you can go without it. PlugNPlayKits has a harness kit for it.
Musway M4+ / Four100 - step up in power, slightly larger
120W continuous per channel. When split for the front daisy-chained speakers you're still getting ~60W each vs only 25W from the Key 200.4 - big deal if you've upgraded to aftermarket speakers. Fits under the driver's seat with room to spare but won't mount under the steering wheel. PlugNPlayKits also sells a plug-and-play harness for this one.
JBL DSP 4086 - DSP-equipped alternative
Has built-in DSP like the Key, which matters for correcting the Bronco's quirky rear pod signal issues. Available at Crutchfield.
AudioControl D-5.1300 - if you want to go 5-channel
One amp to handle everything including the tailgate stinger sub. More involved install but a much cleaner end result.
Worth noting: The Key 200.4 is purpose-built as a piggyback amp for factory or low-power speakers. If you've upgraded to aftermarket speakers (Kicker KS series, etc.), the Key is likely underpowering them. The Musway or AudioControl options are the better fit in that scenario.
As a newbie I tried Key200.4 in S550 Mustang convertible. It failed after three weeks and Kicker dealer was a pain. Had to reach out to Kicker corp executives who promptly dealt with it however the process was cumbersome and lengthy during which time I bought Audison APBit 8.9. (in classifieds).
The Audison was great, easy plug and play, easy to set up and tune. The addition of Kenwood 1000W sub amp and JL sub really brought the whole system to near perfection.
The Audison tel support was amazing, and newbie had no problems at all. The amp performed flawlessly
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