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DSP tuning

TT6gbd

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The oem radio clips I believe after volume 22 with 40hz tone 0db it can go a bit higher with 1khz test tone 0db but I settled at volume 21. At volume 21 it produces about 8 volts for hi-level which was no good for my Musway so I had to get high to low level converter and have the hi-level output converter set to 4.5v of output at volume 21. If you are shopping for amps make sure to look at input sensitivity just an fYI.
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mObridge

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I have a Musway M4+ 4ch amp dsp 100w @ 4 ohm. It also has rca outputs for another 4channels of dsp if you wish to add more amps. when I started the build I thought it was good to go but quickly ran into a bunch of problems and headaches. My system consists of morel maximo 602 mk2 component up front and morel Maximo 6.5 in the rear powered by the Musway. I threw a kicker 8 inch sub powered by kicker key 500.1. I got sound skins treatment for the kick panels and trunk area also sounds skin speaker rings. Initial set up was component up front running passive and coax rear powered by the dsp amp. For tuning I got the Dayton imm6 mic and studio six RTA. Dsp settings where 80hz to 20khz lr24 slopes, time alignment, gain all the way down used Andy’s target curve but everything sounded either to bright or to thin. I quickly realized that the tweeter in dash corners was a no go. I decided to go active and replaced the morel tweeters for audiofrog wideband gs25, so now the amp is only powering front stage and rear is running of oem HU. Again same thing the sound was weird the midrange was to harsh and thin and no tweeter frequency. I was using 80-350 for the 6.5 and 350hz-20khz for gs25. It felt like the little wideband speaker was doing all the work and the midbass was just doing nothing. I decided to play with the crossover and ended up with 80hz to 800hz on the 6.5 mid and 1khz-20khz on the audiofrog gs25. Right of the bat much better and more full. Also way easier to tune. Now it sounds loud and lots of headroom. But I feel like my mid bass is lacking a bit. I tried to seal all the holes in the kick panels wonder if that is preventing my midbass to sound good. I need to upgrade my 8inch sub to a 10inch because now it can’t keep up with my front stage.

I would highly recommend an A2B interface, this will allow you to remove the factory amplifier which is most likely the source for your issues here. You are fighting the factory eq-ing, even if you use input equalization you're still fighting phase filtering which the musway DSP cannot correct for.

This will make a world of difference
https://mobridge.us/product/da-g2-standard-a2b-ford/
 

DrRoboto

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You shouldn't be sitting in the vehicle during a full rta session unless you're trying to verify left/right pull or level matching in the final touches.

You and your laptop should be outside.

20230611_170957.jpg
This may be a dumb question, but... How do you connect the laptop audio to the car speakers??? I just bought an Umik-1 mic and set it up with REW, and want to measure the EQ of the existing system before I upgrade. But I cannot figure out how to get the laptop to connect to the car speakers. The USB connection didn't do it. There's no aux-in. Bluetooth might work, but it's compressed and delayed, so probably not great for audio analysis.
 

heathw101

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This may be a dumb question, but... How do you connect the laptop audio to the car speakers??? I just bought an Umik-1 mic and set it up with REW, and want to measure the EQ of the existing system before I upgrade. But I cannot figure out how to get the laptop to connect to the car speakers. The USB connection didn't do it. There's no aux-in. Bluetooth might work, but it's compressed and delayed, so probably not great for audio analysis.
mono pink noise on usb stick. No need to connect laptop to Bronco.
 
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eduard4us

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This may be a dumb question, but... How do you connect the laptop audio to the car speakers??? I just bought an Umik-1 mic and set it up with REW, and want to measure the EQ of the existing system before I upgrade. But I cannot figure out how to get the laptop to connect to the car speakers. The USB connection didn't do it. There's no aux-in. Bluetooth might work, but it's compressed and delayed, so probably not great for audio analysis.
Although not ideal but bluetooth is working pretty well.
 

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DrRoboto

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mono pink noise on usb stick. No need to connect laptop to Bronco.
ok! I've got my MoBridge installed, REW and an Umik-1 all set up. I measured and set the delays, leveled SPL on each speaker, and set appropriate crossover frequencies for my setup. Now I'm doing RTA measurements. Sanity check: Is the tuning process really just measure, look at the curve and see peaks and valleys in REW RTA window, then in the MoBridge software manually drag the EQ points up or down, remeasure, and iterate until it's kind of close to the desired curve? It feels like something software should automatically be able to do, creating a correction curve.
 
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eduard4us

eduard4us

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ok! I've got my MoBridge installed, REW and an Umik-1 all set up. I measured and set the delays, leveled SPL on each speaker, and set appropriate crossover frequencies for my setup. Now I'm doing RTA measurements. Sanity check: Is the tuning process really just measure, look at the curve and see peaks and valleys in REW RTA window, then in the MoBridge software manually drag the EQ points up or down, remeasure, and iterate until it's kind of close to the desired curve? It feels like something software should automatically be able to do, creating a correction curve.
You’re on the right track.
“Socket” on YouTube has very good videos on how to tune a DSP.

https://youtube.com/@socketsocket2763?si=zV7ilI6gsNLSjhCH
 

Area51BS

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I’m using the DSP built into my Helix amp. Works great. Has proper interface made for the SB type amp used in Ford radio.
 

heathw101

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you are in the right track but can be a little more challenging in the Bronco. Based off hours of tuning the main areas that will need addressing are the high frequencies, lower Midbass and upper subwoofer. You will need to significantly drop the upper treble. The frequencies are reflecting off the glass causing them to come in “hot”. The 6.5’s in the front are probably struggling to play down past 100 hz and you also probably have a big spike around 250hz. There simply isn’t enough airspace for the speakers to thrive here. Cut 200-250 here. Use the subwoofer to cover the 80hz region. Also what crossover points are you using?


ok! I've got my MoBridge installed, REW and an Umik-1 all set up. I measured and set the delays, leveled SPL on each speaker, and set appropriate crossover frequencies for my setup. Now I'm doing RTA measurements. Sanity check: Is the tuning process really just measure, look at the curve and see peaks and valleys in REW RTA window, then in the MoBridge software manually drag the EQ points up or down, remeasure, and iterate until it's kind of close to the desired curve? It feels like something software should automatically be able to do, creating a correction curve.
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