Damage while using winch on improperly installed Rough Country High Mount

[UncleBuck]

OK....so this is highly embarrassing and I feel like a total idiot but I need to come clean. At least some good discussion became of it and my Bronco is undamaged. I still believe after seeing the DV8 bumper video, this scare, and how Ford does it from the factory, that LOD plates or similar are wise.

I got it dissembled and it turns out this is 100% on me.

I left out some very crucial parts. I don't know how I missed them, but when I went digging through the old box they were there, shiny and new.

So where do these go and how do they solve the problem you created?

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[Tricky Dick]

So where do these go and how do they solve the problem you created?

The RC mount straddles the plate which isn't flat. I'd prefer something even more substantial than those little rings and am debating cutting some out.

 

[UncleBuck]

The RC mount straddles the plate which isn't flat. I'd prefer something even more substantial than those little rings and am debating cutting some out.

Gotcha. So in theory, those spacers would have likely prevented the damage to your RC high mount and the frame horns are good? I've been reading through this long thread which seems to be the case. I was set on this winch mount for when the time comes but I'll likely get the LOD reinforcing brackets if they will help.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Gotcha. So in theory, those spacers would have likely prevented the damage to your RC high mount and the frame horns are good? I've been reading through this long thread which seems to be the case. I was set on this winch mount for when the time comes but I'll likely get the LOD reinforcing brackets if they will help.

They would have prevented the RC mount damage I'm sure. Frame? Anyone's guess if it would have still bent. At least the frame tube didn't bend, just the face plates. I *think* the LOD brackets would have prevented that.

 

[Tricky Dick]

I guess you could pull a few off the "assembly line" before nuts get welded to them for those of us with welded bolt plates.

This is 100% doable since they will be bent and welded at separate locations, I can always save a few back.

 

[MillerAndCheeto]

Possibly, but installation would be a bear if even possible if you still have crash bar brackets. It's tricky enough feeding the LOD plates in.

The modified LOD installation was a success and my bumper sits square again. Unfortunately the bolts are now too short to hold the RC mount so I have to source some longer ones tomorrow. None of the included hardware is locking anyway so I can switch to nylocks while I'm at it.

So I take it your shimmed-LoD design worked? You are turning into quite the pioneer for the rest of us.

 

[Tricky Dick]

So I take it your shimmed-LoD design worked? You are turning into quite the pioneer for the rest of us.

The inner shimmed plates are super solid and no distortion, big win IMO. Not pictured was a 2x3" 3/16 shim that went under the rear hole but not welded. The 2 work together to bridge the bump.

Fun fact, the existing holes they have you use are not even, the driver side was about 1/2" higher than the passenger. And LOD says to drill the existing holes out to 1/2", but only 2 of 4 needed it.

 

[techdisaster]

Possibly, but installation would be a bear if even possible if you still have crash bar brackets. It's tricky enough feeding the LOD plates in.

The modified LOD installation was a success and my bumper sits square again. Unfortunately the bolts are now too short to hold the RC mount so I have to source some longer ones tomorrow. None of the included hardware is locking anyway so I can switch to nylocks while I'm at it.

Will I need to source longer bolts with the LOD plate and the RC Bumper, or is only your modified LOD plates that require longer bolts?

 

[Tricky Dick]

Will I need to source longer bolts with the LOD plate and the RC Bumper, or is only your modified LOD plates that require longer bolts?

You probably will too, I didn't add any thickness to the LODs. They might be OK once torqued down but I'm not liking how little thread there is. The single bolt on the outside ear is fine but the RC mount + spacers adds another 1/2" or so.

I'm switching to 1/2-13 grade 8.

 

[Mudlight]

You probably will too, I didn't add any thickness to the LODs. They might be OK once torqued down but I'm not liking how little thread there is. The single bolt on the outside ear is fine but the RC mount + spacers adds another 1/2" or so.

I'm switching to 1/2-13 grade 8.

What is the Ford bolt thread/size for the bumper? Hopefully the longer bolt can be sourced out. Or are you eliminating the Ford factory nut plate all together?

 

[Tricky Dick]

What is the Ford bolt thread/size for the bumper? Hopefully the longer bolt can be sourced out. Or are you eliminating the Ford factory nut plate all together?

Ford uses M12, not sure the pitch. LOD has you reuse the stock bolts and ditch the nut plate in favored of nuts and washer. My kit will include all 1/2" hardware and also eliminate the nut plate.

 

[Rick Astley]

I'm switching to 1/2-13 grade 8.

Why?

You'll create situations where the bolt is so much harder than the surrounding metal it will do its own damage not to mention what it could potentially do if near a pre-designed deformation crease such as a crumple zone.

Grade 2 will work fine in this application, grade 5 for overkill.

 

[swooshdave]

Ford uses M12, not sure the pitch. LOD has you reuse the stock bolts and ditch the nut plate in favored of nuts and washer. My kit will include all 1/2" hardware and also eliminate the nut plate.

I hate it when people put non-metric on new cars.

 

[Jdc]

I hate it when people put non-metric on new cars.

 

[HotdogThud]

The CAD work is done and I'm super stoked, the TrickPlates are going to be bombproof. If I submit the files now there's a chance the prototype shows up before I leave for Moab but I don't want them sitting around a week if they miss me.

The question is before I can commit to a batch, what is the ultimate reinforcement kit worth to you? As it stands now $250 a set is a possibility - raw material costs alone are killing me.

Come on man, you gotta pump those R&D numbers. Get with the BroncBusted(TM) pricing!
$1500 for that level of peace of mind.

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