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Charge pipes issue

Boreal

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If it were me, I’d put the aftermarket charge pipe back on. Try to see if the symptoms are able to be replicated. If they don’t, chalk it up to a fluke and keep it in mind for the future
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mike8675309

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I installed the AFE charge pipes on my 2.3l and since doing that 1000 miles ago 2 different times (the latest being today on a 90 mile trip home) the turbo won’t produce anymore than 1lb of boost. I’m taking it in for service Thursday but has anyone else run across this? If I shut the vehicle off for 15 mins or so the service engine light goes away and the wastegate resumes normal function until it decides to do it again. Now my check engine light is on which hasn’t happened the one other time this happened. I’ve since reinstalled the factory charge pipes and went for a drive and everything is normal minus the engine light. Again I believe this is a wastegate problem that has been documented in this forum but it didn’t start until I installed the aftermarket charge pipes. Put the factory ones back on bc I don’t want to have to argue with the dealership about fixing the underlying issue
I'm not sure how you got from charge pipes to turbo not producing boost with no other information along that path.

Is boost leaking by the charge pipes? Is the wastegate not closing? Do you have a vacuum leak? Those would be things I would look for. Why you started with charge pipes I'm not sure.
 

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It has an electronic wastegate instead of a normal vacuum one which is why there are no aftermarket ones, at least not yet.
anyone AM wokring on a normal wastegate? Can we use Mustang or Ranger AM wastegates?
 

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anyone AM wokring on a normal wastegate? Can we use Mustang or Ranger AM wastegates?
Non-electric wastegates wouldn’t work, the PCM would have no idea how to control them and it would throw multiple faults instantly if the electronic ones were removed. Plus I’m not sure why you would want normal old vacuum wastegates instead. Electronic is much better IMO
 

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Non-electric wastegates wouldn’t work, the PCM would have no idea how to control them and it would throw multiple faults instantly if the electronic ones were removed. Plus I’m not sure why you would want normal old vacuum wastegates instead. Electronic is much better IMO
Well the AM is picking up, so only a matter of time for a proper solution. Still, be nice if there was something viable we could use in the meantime
 

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Well the AM is picking up, so only a matter of time for a proper solution. Still, be nice if there was something viable we could use in the meantime
There’s nothing wrong with the factory one unless it fails. But if it does, it’s covered under warranty for 5 years 60k miles.
 

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There’s nothing wrong with the factory one unless it fails. But if it does, it’s covered under warranty for 5 years 60k miles.
My old Mustang had a Turbosmart Wastegate Actuator (10psi), I was nearly FBO at that point (just needed injectors and a catback)

I already upgraded my BOV, why not the wastegate as well, especially after this
 

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My old Mustang had a Turbosmart Wastegate Actuator (10psi), I was nearly FBO at that point (just needed injectors and a catback)

I already upgraded my BOV, why not the wastegate as well, especially after this
Just seems unnecessary. Unless you’re going to a bigger turbo, changing the wastegate won’t see any benefit. Electronic wastegates are far easier to tune, once the PCM is cracked and tuning is more common on broncos.
 

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Just seems unnecessary. Unless you’re going to a bigger turbo, changing the wastegate won’t see any benefit. Electronic wastegates are far easier to tune, once the PCM is cracked and tuning is more common on broncos.
Only a matter of time

Ive been around before 7/13, was a 7/13 and got myself a Rapid Red, so whats waiting for things to be made at this point?
 

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Ah yes I was wondering when one of you would arrive. The aftermarket cold side provides 70% more air to the turbo which isn’t a bad thing compared to the stock so say whatever you like. Ford engineers have plenty and I mean PLENTY of problems with a vehicle the have been working on for years and we are all aware of them. Move along if you have nothing to add. Yeah for 10 miles now the factory pipes haven’t caused a issue… for 10 miles. The issue is the wastegate not the pipes but please exert your wisdom
Sorry to be so unsympathetic. As a retired mechanical engineer and never having owned a “turbocharged vehicle”, I’m intrigued about the dynamics surrounding these turbos. Generally speaking, on the inlet side of a pump, bigger is better.

I’m however, extremely skeptical about aftermarket vendors, and their performance claims, which are mostly unsubstantiated. 70% more air? Does it need 70% more air? Kind of like having a bigger refrigerator but still only putting one 6 pack of beer in it.

Your post got me thinking about a dynamic analysis in PSIA (absolute) surrounding the turbo. We know the required air flow and density and we know the turbo discharge pressure. I wonder what the air velocity in the inlet ducting actually is?

Give me a couple of days to think about it. I’m just now returning from an off road trip from Big Bend RANCH State Park.
 

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Here are the messages I got through the app

84F75C02-CE1E-4745-A96D-0A643AA95432.png


2F569B20-6095-429E-BD97-5960F5BCFADB.png
Would be helpful to know the actual code. It's important to understand the computer's failure mode. It's clearly capable of producing boost, but when it detects a boost level outside of what it considers normal it will go into a sort of "limp" mode, and limit boost intentionally. I doubt charge pipes alone would cause the boost to fall outside parameters, however VERY small leaks, can sometimes set it off (like a cut oring on the intercooler connections). If you don't have a code reader, most autozone stores will read the code for you.
 

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Would be helpful to know the actual code. It's important to understand the computer's failure mode. It's clearly capable of producing boost, but when it detects a boost level outside of what it considers normal it will go into a sort of "limp" mode, and limit boost intentionally. I doubt charge pipes alone would cause the boost to fall outside parameters, however VERY small leaks, can sometimes set it off (like a cut oring on the intercooler connections). If you don't have a code reader, most autozone stores will read the code for you.
In general, it's a good idea to have a code reader anyway, since you want to be prepared, it's a solid investment. Don't even need the expensive ones, lower tiers that just read the codes are worthwhile.

It also helps if ya take it to a shop and they claim something else to nickel and dime you, you know not to trust them, period.
 

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^Besides that, you'll be the hero of the day

Ever go to a Car meet? At least one person might have a CEL.
Work? Someone probably has or is gonna get a CEL
Family gatherings?

You get the idea
 
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Dmorty217

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I'm not sure how you got from charge pipes to turbo not producing boost with no other information along that path.

Is boost leaking by the charge pipes? Is the wastegate not closing? Do you have a vacuum leak? Those would be things I would look for. Why you started with charge pipes I'm not sure.
I started with the charge pipes because that’s what was done and then the problem occurred. I’m asking since there are plenty of others with aftermarket charge pipes and would like to know if I’m the only one with the issue is all.
 
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Dmorty217

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Sorry to be so unsympathetic. As a retired mechanical engineer and never having owned a “turbocharged vehicle”, I’m intrigued about the dynamics surrounding these turbos. Generally speaking, on the inlet side of a pump, bigger is better.

I’m however, extremely skeptical about aftermarket vendors, and their performance claims, which are mostly unsubstantiated. 70% more air? Does it need 70% more air? Kind of like having a bigger refrigerator but still only putting one 6 pack of beer in it.

Your post got me thinking about a dynamic analysis in PSIA (absolute) surrounding the turbo. We know the required air flow and density and we know the turbo discharge pressure. I wonder what the air velocity in the inlet ducting actually is?

Give me a couple of days to think about it. I’m just now returning from an off road trip from Big Bend RANCH State Park.
I agree that the claims are probably overrated, it definitely did provide more cold air to the turbo as I could hear it. I guess my question was more to those who have also replaced theirs, I can’t be the only one with this issue. At this point I put the factory ones back on and will sell the AFE ones. They looked better and we’re aluminum but the issues I have had though they have been intermittent, I’m over it. Wasn’t trying to be shitty, this place brings the best and the worst out of people so I apologize.
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