Bypass micron filter install?

[gbub]

My goal is to mount both an ARB single brushless air compressor and the bypass filter in that spot. I don't know if there is room though. The bypass oil filter has priority. I have another spot under the Bronco that is my second choice for the compressor.

I don't have answers to any of your questions, but am interested in the answers.

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[u20251001]

My goal is to mount both an ARB single brushless air compressor and the bypass filter in that spot. I don't know if there is room though.

I'm also considering fitment. Looking at the bracket it appears that half of them are flat mounted and half are vertical mounts. It looks to me that the SDHQ may be the best choice for a single compressor and an Insane Diesel bypass filter mount. SDHQ has a single vertical base plate with a stiffener for the switch to mount.

The Insane Diesel Extreme X1 measures 4.5"x4.75" and the mount is 4.88"x3.25" and the ARB CKMA12 measures 3.86"x5.7"x7.5"

All those brackets are expensive except for the Barnes which seems like a more reasonable cost. However, it's a horizontal mount that won't work like we need. I did find the SDHQ bracket at enginesupplies.shop for $85.99. It has the same pictures and description as the SDHQ site has. However, I tried calling their New Mexico number and it went direct to voicemail with a generic message. I also looked up their address on the maps and no such address exists in New Mexico. It may just be a scammy e-site, it could be a knock-off, or it could just be gray market selling.

One question I can't answer is if you mount the bypass filter next to the compressor with the ECU on the opposite side, will this cause spurious ECU behavior due to the heat? The oil temps are ~200° at operating temperature. Many SoCs start throttling and/or shutting down at 105c/220f.

 

[gbub]

I doubt the oil filter will affect the ECU. The turbo is below that area and I think heat from that would be greaterthan the heat from the oil filter. It still could be a taken into consideration though when positioning.

I think I will buy the Insane Diesel bypass oil filter and the ARB air compressor and see if they can fit in that area. I will probably end up making my own mounting bracket if it looks like both will fit.

The Barnes mount states it is 11 gauge steel and that is slightly less than 1/8th inch. That seems a little thin for that application. The SDHQ bracket is thicker with a blend of 1/8th and 3/16th inch thick steel. That seems like is a better design. I will probably used thicker aluminum. I will use annealed aluminum for forming and heat treat it after to get maximum strength.

 

[u20251001]

I ended up ordering the Baxter adapter and the SDHQ mounting bracket. Instead of buying another bypass filter and discarding the one I already have. I'm going to relocate the Frantz to the SDHQ bracket and plumb the supply line into the aux port on the Baxter adapter. Plus I love $5 bypass filter prices from Franz vs. $50+ for everyone else. I really have no use for a compressor, and I really don't like the bulky non-factory looking wiring loom.

The tee on the oil sending unit is completely fine and you should have no worries using it. In the photos attached you'll see where I installed a spark plug boot heat sleeve to prevent the turbo from heating the line/oil since the 90° fitting puts the line closer to the turbo and all other lines and wires in the vicinity have some sort of heat shielding on them.

There were really a couple of reasons for my decision.

1. I want an ultra clean factory looking setup with minimal hoses.
2. Even though the Frantz is fine like it is, I did notice some extra noise inside the cabin from the bypass filter vibrations. If you put your hand on the hoses they pulse and sound/feel a loot like a Waterpik irrigator for your teeth.

It was very hard to spend the money for what I see as a very over priced mounting bracket. However, it was the cleanest and most factory looking option I could find.

Baxter Data Points, Decisions, Dilemmas

1. I emailed Kevin and Rick from Baxter about the Schrader valve last week and I received no response back from either of them.
2. If I plumb in my bypass input to one of the Baxter adapter aux ports, would the Schrader be able to push air through the aux port after the primary filter has been drained? My guess is no - when the oil filter drains that likely will leave an open airway all the way down to the sump.
3. My plan if the Schrader doesn't work is to pull the oil filter and use a 90° air hose adapter to blow air through the aux port to drain the bypass before changing.
4. There are many threads saying the Baxter is snake oil and a waste of money. I don't know if that is true or if it's a bunch of contrarians with no data or testing throwing out negative data with noting to lose. If anything people should be screaming about the price of those compressor mounting brackets - those are literally the same price as the compressor for a no-tech trivial hunk of bent steel.
5. Kevin from Baxter has the 2.7L front cover on a video here. He explains the problem and solution. However, I can only see that at most it keeps the oil in the filter and really has no way to keep oil in the oil passageway. It looks to me that the only real advantage on the dry start is for it to have oil in the filter so the pump has less to catch up with but the other passages would still be empty.
6. My Bronco has always made some concerning noises on cold start since it was new. I took a db reading before the Baxter and I'm planning on comparing the results after the Baxter is installed.
7. I did notice more micro/small/medium aluminum particles in the 15k oil filter that were concerning. I'm hoping the Baxter adapter mitigates any further wear particles - no idea where/when/how these particles arrived. I have not pulled the turbo screens to determine their status.
8. At a minimum the Baxter gets me a complete toolless oil change (Frantz bypass, Ronin oil plug, Baxter oil adapter with FL500S spin-on filter). I guess you could argue the 4 bolts in the skid plate, but I'm looking for a knurled knob upgrade option to solve that problem.
9. Aux port plumbing may be a gamble until I see it in person. It looks like there is a bracket in the way of the valve cover and the oil cooler is also there so getting a 90° fitting in there and routing the hose cleanly may be an issue. My backup plan will be to stick with the tee on the oil sending unit. Unless I get a way to drain the bypass, that may foil my plans for topside mounting. Edit: Confirmed that these are not aux ports and are only there for thread variances since you don't know where the adapter will be clocked to install the Schrader. You'll need to spend more money to get a Oil Filter Sandwich Plate Adapter if you want aux ports on the Baxter which increases the cost. In my view this is a shortsighted part of Baxter's design that they can solve with a revision of the current adapter.

insane-diesel-cap

bypass supply heatwrap sending unit tee

 

[Poppavein]

I hadn’t heard of these filters, so I asked Grok’s opinion how useful it would be for me:
### Understanding Bypass Micron Filters
A bypass micron filter (often just called a bypass oil filter) is an auxiliary filtration system that works alongside your vehicle's primary (full-flow) oil filter. It draws off about 5-10% of the oil pump's output, filters it through ultra-fine media (typically 2-10 microns, compared to the 20-35 microns of a standard full-flow filter), and returns the cleaned oil to the sump. This removes smaller particles that contribute to engine wear, sludge buildup, and varnish over time. Popular brands like Amsoil use synthetic media for high efficiency (e.g., 98.7% at 15 microns or better) and can extend oil life by improving cleanliness.

It's not a replacement for regular maintenance—your full-flow filter still handles the bulk of oil circulation—but it's a proven add-on for engines under stress, like turbocharged ones.

### The 2024 Ford Bronco 2.3L EcoBoost Context
The 2.3L EcoBoost is a turbocharged inline-4 with a 6-quart oil capacity (5W-30 synthetic recommended) and a cartridge-style oil filter (Motorcraft FL-910S for 2021-2024 models). Ford specs 7,500-10,000-mile intervals based on the oil life monitor, but many owners change every 4,000-6,000 miles for off-roading, towing, or dusty conditions. The engine bay is tight, especially with the air compressor on higher trims, making mods tricky. No factory bypass system exists, so installation requires custom plumbing (e.g., tapping the oil pressure sensor port for supply and the filler neck or valve cover for return).

### How Useful Is It for This Setup?
For a stock or lightly modified 2024 Bronco 2.3L, a bypass filter is **moderately useful**—valuable for longevity if you push the engine hard, but overkill for casual driving. Here's a breakdown:

#### Pros
- **Superior Particle Removal**: Captures contaminants down to 2-5 microns that the OEM filter misses, reducing wear on turbo bearings, pistons, and cams. In turbo engines like the 2.3L, this can prevent carbon buildup and extend component life by 20-50% in severe use (e.g., off-road trails or hot climates).
- **Extended Oil Life**: Owners report 2-3x longer intervals (15,000+ miles) with used oil analysis (UOA) showing cleaner oil. Amsoil systems add ~2 quarts capacity, aiding cooling during towing (up to 3,500 lbs for the Bronco).
- **Real-World Benefits**: In similar Ford EcoBoost setups (e.g., Focus ST or Mustang 2.3L), users on forums like Bronco6G note quieter operation and less sludge after 50,000+ miles. Amsoil reviews for Ford turbos highlight "purring" engines and ROI in 2-3 changes via saved oil/filter costs (~$100-150 per service).
- **Off-Road Fit**: Broncos see dirt/dust ingestion; finer filtration helps maintain viscosity and prevents bypass valve activation in the full-flow filter.

#### Cons
- **Installation Challenges**: The 2.3L bay has limited space—no easy sandwich plate for the cartridge filter. You'd need adapters (e.g., Baxter spin-on converter + Amsoil BK299), custom lines, and a mount (possibly under the vehicle). Expect 4-8 hours of work; one Bronco6G user called it a "challenge" similar to 2.7L installs. Cost: $300-600 for a kit (e.g., Amsoil Universal Dual-Remote BMK23) + labor.
- **Minimal Gains for Mild Use**: If you're highway-only and following Ford's schedule, the stock setup suffices. Studies show bypass events (unfiltered oil flow) are rare with proper oil, so benefits are marginal without UOAs to confirm.
- **Warranty Risks**: Ford may scrutinize mods; document everything and use OEM-grade parts to avoid denials.
- **Maintenance Overhead**: Bypass elements last 20,000-30,000 miles but require separate servicing.

#### Who Benefits Most?
| Use Case | Usefulness Rating | Why? |
|----------|-------------------|------|
| **Daily Driver/Highway** | Low (2/5) | Stock filter + synthetic oil handles it; save the money. |
| **Off-Road/Towing Frequent** | High (4/5) | Heat/dirt accelerate wear; cleaner oil = better turbo protection. |
| **High-Mileage (100k+ miles)** | High (5/5) | Maximizes engine life; UOAs often show 50-70% less metals. |
| **Performance Mods (Tune/Turbo Upgrade)** | High (4/5) | Increased stress demands finer filtration. |

### Recommendations
- **If Interested**: Start with Amsoil's Universal Bypass Kit (fits 2.3L with adapters; ~$400). Pair with their Signature Series 5W-30 for synergy. Get a pre-install UOA (~$30 via Blackstone Labs) to baseline your oil.
- **Alternatives**: Upgrade to a larger full-flow filter like Mobil 1 M1-209 (adds capacity, 99% efficiency at 30 microns) for easier gains without bypass complexity.
- **Bottom Line**: It's a smart investment for Bronco enthusiasts who off-road or track maintenance obsessively, potentially adding years to the 2.3L's life. For average owners, stick to diligent changes—it's 80% of the benefit for 10% of the effort.

 

[LSW]

Just wanted to say this is a cool project and thanks for sharing. A particle count from Blackstone or maybe Wear-check if you can get them to do it would be very interesting. My particle counts with the Fram Endurance full flow are usually in the 17/15/13 range.

 

[u20251001]

@LSW thanks for the feedback! I've got the Frantz oil analysis kit that I'll sample after ~1500 miles then post up the results when available.

The Baxter oil adapter arrived today and did some testing with a portable air inflation tool. The short answer to the unanswered question to Kevin@Baxter is that the Schrader does not flow enough air to drain the bypass. You need to have a tee and plug the inside with your finger after removing the filter in order to get enough pressure to clear the bypass filter out before replacing in order to prevent a complete mess under the hood.

So you either add two Schrader's, or one tee, but either way you're removing the oil filter first then plugging the inside hole to allow enough volume of air to flow through the bypass filter to drain it.

 

[u20251001]

Here are my findings on the Baxter filter adapter.​

Benefits and empirical results

• Allows the usage of a cartridge filter that can be labeled with the miles changed and visually determine the state (old/new - changed/unchanged during service)
• $8 FL500S vs. the $12+ cartridge filter
• No mess filter change using the Schrader confirmed
• Eliminates the plastic cartridge filter housing that has had occurrences of breakage
• Eliminates the need to replace o-rings.
• Possibly mitigates some dry/cold start by having oil captured in the filter giving the oil pump less oil to pump to completely fill the oiling circuit passageways on dry/cold starts. Oil still has to move from the pump in order for the captured oil in the filter to flow.
• Very nice looking, well built billet product

Drawbacks and empirical results

• Of the three 1/8" NPT ports on the side only one is usable. The other ports do not have enough clearance to use them for anything. So the idea of using one aux port for a bypass filter is not feasible with their current design.
• Using the single aux port with a tee for a bypass is not feasible due to the lack of clearance.
• Even if you could have a tee on the Schrader, you can't flow enough air to clear a bypass filter.
• There is no ROI for this part with filters alone.
• Packaging needs work. The one I got had the Schrader bouncing around and dinged up the anodizing finish on the part where the spin-on filter seal mates.

Primary reasons why you'd buy this adapter

1. Toolless oil change (Ronin, Baxter, etc.)
2. Eliminate o-ring changes
3. Mitigate plastic cartridge housing breakage
4. Visually ensure filter was changed during the service and have it labeled with miles on top

Concerns

• We need more data, testing, and cut-away visuals on the oiling circuit to understand how much oil this adapter actually keeps in the entire circuit
• An updated design with useable aux ports and a way to connect and clear a bypass filter would help better justify the $400 cost of that part.
• Unaware of any oil sample analysis by Baxter on two equal vehicles, one with a Baxter, and the other without to know if there are any wear particle differences.

 

[u20251001]

Baxter Empirical dB Test Results​

I did some before/after testing of the Baxter adapter and FL500S filter vs. the stock cartridge filter. From the sound alone, I was not able to notice any considerable differences.

Oil, trans, air temps plus mileage

Waveform spectrograms of Baxter (top) and stock (bottom) coldstarts two days apart in the same location/temps/times.

I'm happy to share the waveform recordings if anyone wants to do further analysis. However, looking at the spectrogram and listening to the two overlayed and independent, there is a negligible difference in sound. I will point out that the stock unit appeared to have slightly lower db. Keep in mind the Baxter moves the filter on top of the engine and the stock plastic housing has the filter down in the engine with a somewhat insulative housing. That's the only change to the Bronco between recordings. Of course both of these are after the engine has been ran the previous day and sat overnight.

All this testing is with the Frantz bypass filter installed and ran for ~500 miles so the oil is very clean and has been filtered through the bypass at about 1 quart per minute. I have 7 quarts in the system since the bypass and hoses added an extra quart. The oil has ~1000 miles on it and is Mobil1 5W-30 full synthetic.

Name: coldstart bronco baxter filter
Duration: 00:43
Maximum: 83.8 dB
Average: 48.4 dB
Minimum: 27.3 dB
Noise Level: Quiet Room, Light Rain


Name: coldstart bronco stock filter
Duration: 00:41
Maximum: 81.3 dB
Average: 52.5 dB
Minimum: 22.3 dB
Noise Level: Quiet Office, Refrigerator Hum

Here's a signature (likely me turning off the air conditioner) and ripple difference (~1.3 extra secs.) after startup I did notice between the two.

Measurements from the waveform
Stock: start button to normalized (no ripples) 2.7 seconds
Baxter: start button to normalized (no ripples) 1.4 seconds

Conclusion: The $400 USD Baxter adapter __may__ mitigate 1.3 seconds of potential dry start wear if the above waveform correlations represent those events.

 

[u20251001]

Here's a second look at the Baxter coldstart ripple compared against the previous. The waveform matches the one from 2025/10/09.

Oil, trans, air temps plus mileage

 

[u20251001]

SDHQ Bracket Measurements​

Here are the photos with measurements of the SDHQ bracket installed with only the ECU mounted to show the empty space for an air compressor and/or bypass filter.

It killed me to pay ~$325 for that SDHQ bracket, but the positive side it's a high quality part with very sturdy mounting and opens up a vast amount of space while having an OEM or better look and feel.

 

[u20251001]

Frantz TopSide Mount​

Here's the finished pics moving the Frantz bypass from the underside mount to the topside on the SDHQ bracket.

The input line from the oil sending unit tee is very short and clean looking now. I did add an AN fitting with a Schrader valve (borrowed the idea from Baxter) to help purge the bypass when doing filter changes to eliminate any extra mess - see photos.

The output line is more or less the same only removing some unneeded length that was needed for bottom mounting.

Moving this to the topside did eliminate the vibration (Waterpik like) noise I could hear in the cabin. I may end up adding the single ARB compressor for the utility of it in the garage which has nothing to do with mall crawling.

There are nylon spacers on the ECU so the thermal condition with heat transfer from the bypass filter may likely be a non-issue sine it's got nylon spacers and an air gap on the backside in addition to having the thickness of the SDHQ mount to further isolate heat from the bypass filter.

This setup would also work with the Insane Diesel Extreme X1 or X2. You would just need to pick the right bracket (AUTO67RNNG, GODZILLA, FORD60, or the universal bracket) and possibly drill and additional hole in it if you don't want to drill the SDHQ bracket.

 

[u20251001]

Thermal Images of ECU & Bypass Filter on SDHQ Bracket​

Here are the thermal images after a slight cool down. I measured anywhere from ~130℉ to ~212℉ in the area and certain components. I tried to get an overview of the bypass system installation thermal signatures.

 

[u20251001]

Minimalist Frantz Topside Mount with SDHQ Bracket​

This is the cleaned up version of the bypass filter installation. I was able to test the Schrader valve and can confirm that it does clear the lines preventing any mess. I simply relocated the output line from the firewall routing it along another existing line on the front of the engine.

You now only need a 1 foot section of hose for the input/supply and a 2.5 foot section for the output/return line.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Is he Baxter worth it? Seems like there's enough residual on cam lobes etc to cover 1.5 secs....

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