Bypass micron filter install?

[CarbonSteel]

Post warranty mileage where I'm on the hook for a long block. Data > no_data to me.​

Are you thinking that past warranty the engine is going to experience an oil related failure? How many ecoboost engines do that? What are you going to learn from the data?

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[CarbonSteel]

This reminded me of the screens in the oil supply lines of the turbos. I have not pulled mine to see if there is anything in them. That was one additional benefit of the bypass filter to help prevent those mesh screens from clogging up causing collateral damage to the turbos.

Do you know the largest particulate size, in micons, that can fit through those screens?

I have never looked into it, but @redone17 - do you know?

The question is what particulate size is getting past a regular filter that could cause damage. I am guessing/betting that the turbos in the Ecoboost are not ball bearing style, which means that 20 microns is not causing wear. As previously discussed, a filter that can filter 20 microns @ 99.9% efficiency can also filter even smaller particles with multi-passes.

 

[CarbonSteel]

I had oil analysis done on it in its younger years to determine when to change oil. That ended up being 20K miles. That is the point when the viscosity of the oil began to increase. I have not done compression tests because there is no indication it needs it. After building my own engines and racing them in SCCA for 32 years, I can tell the health of an engine by the sound of it.

If there was any problem in the cylinders that a bore scope could detect, it would show up in higher oil consumption. It has not used any more oil throughout its life so far. I have used borescopes in other engines to confirm problems.

I used Harvard bypass oil filters. They are getting harder to obtain and am switching to a new source. Extended oil changes was the main reason I started using bypass oil filters. Cleaner oil was the second reason. With the Bronco, cleaner oil is the main reason. I will go with Ford recommended oil change interval for the most part for the Bronco. I may do some oil analysis to see if I can extend it a little but it for sure will not be 20K miles. I want to be very cautious with turbos.

With the fuel dilution happening in Ecoboost engines, the oil will need to be changed long before 20K miles--more likely far less than 10K miles. A UOA using gas chromatography is the only way to check the fuel concentration which would not be a concern in a 2002 Ranger.

Unless you are running a higher viscosity oil, the dilution thins the viscosity, and a bypass filter is not going to help with that--it would have to be a mini-refinery to remove the fuel from the oil.

My 2.7L pushed the factory Motorcraft oil into a xW-20 viscosity in less than 1,000 miles. I switched to Mobil 1 ESP 0W-30 and it has held up despite seeing an average of 4.2% fuel dilution.

I would be more worried about viscosity control for the turbos than I ever would be about particles slipping through a synthetic media filter.

 

[u20251001]

Not AI generated and it is for a filter that is capable of 20 microns @ 99.9% efficiency like a FRAM Endurance that has full synthetic media. A Motorcraft filter is cellulose based and not capable of 20 microns at 99.9% efficiency.

How do we get official table data for the Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter FL2062A for the 2.7L?

 

[CarbonSteel]

How do we get official table data for the Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter FL2062A for the 2.7L?

I have never found a place where they publish the efficiency ratings for any of their filters and none of their filters list ISO 4548-12 test results. Amsoil did some testing a few years back and the FL-820s was 20 microns @ 93.7%--plenty of other filters that blow those results away.

MC filters are cellulose media (except perhaps for their racing style filters) so their efficiency ratings are always going to be lower than a full synthetic media filter.

 

[u20251001]

I have never looked into it, but @redone17 - do you know?

The question is what particulate size is getting past a regular filter that could cause damage.

My wear comments were sans-turbo. Although, you bring up an interesting point that the bypass filter may not be limited to making a long block last longer, but also having a similar benefit for the turbo internals and the screens.​

I am guessing/betting that the turbos in the Ecoboost are not ball bearing style, which means that 20 microns is not causing wear.

14:15 timestamp guys claims there is a thrust bearing in the 3.5L turbo.​

2015 3.5L Ecoboost Turbo Rebuild with CRP Billet Assembly​

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CR Performance (the guy above used them) has a 2018-2020 Ford F-150 2.7L EcoBoost Turbo Rebuild Kit with part shown​

https://crpengineering.com/product/1-003-780-2x-2/​

​

No idea if any of the above is representative of the Bronco 2.7L. It looks like OEM turbos are only ~$800 so you could either buy a new one and cut it up or pull one off your rig and report back what you find.​

 

[u20251001]

Are you thinking that past warranty the engine is going to experience an oil related failure?

No, I'm thinking about how much I'll be out of pocket if it does. In the case of Derek with the 900k Powerstroke, I would have sold the truck off and just got a new one with a warranty vs. paying $35k for a new engine (and possibly transmission I don't recall).

 

[CarbonSteel]

My wear comments were sans-turbo. Although, you bring up an interesting point that the bypass filter may not be limited to making a long block last longer, but also having a similar benefit for the turbo internals and the screens.​

14:15 timestamp guys claims there is a thrust bearing in the 3.5L turbo.​

2015 3.5L Ecoboost Turbo Rebuild with CRP Billet Assembly​

​

​

CR Performance (the guy above used them) has a 2018-2020 Ford F-150 2.7L EcoBoost Turbo Rebuild Kit with part shown​

https://crpengineering.com/product/1-003-780-2x-2/​

​

No idea if any of the above is representative of the Bronco 2.7L. It looks like OEM turbos are only ~$800 so you could either buy a new one and cut it up or pull one off your rig and report back what you find.​

The ultimate question which is not been answered is how much longer would the bypass system make the engine last vs. using high quality oil and filters and changing it on a reasonable basis.

I totally get wanting to make your vehicle last as long as possible, but there are literally millions of them on the road with less than stellar maintenance happening that last hundreds of thousands of miles.

 

[CarbonSteel]

No, I'm thinking about how much I'll be out of pocket if it does. In the case of Derek with the 900k Powerstroke, I would have sold the truck off and just got a new one with a warranty vs. paying $35k for a new engine (and possibly transmission I don't recall).

Well...to quote a wise man...every day that you use it will be one day less that you can.

Color me incredibly skeptical that the engine will be the root cause of the Bronco going tango uniform...

 

[u20251001]

I'm not gonna bother with it until there's clear evidence of added wear resulting from insufficient residual lube especially with synthetic....that ks everyone for inputs.

In my view, if you don't care about the following then the decision to skip the Baxter for dry-start reasons seems to be a very easy no thanks.

• toolless filter change
• no need to change o-rings
• eliminate the possible breakage of the factory plastic oil filter cap stem breaking off in the engine
• 40% lower cost oil filter
• visual checks to make sure the filter was changed and at what mileage (a sticker on top of the spin-on filter)
• billet bling/farkle parts
• adding an oil filter sandwich plate adapter to gain aux oil ports for turbocharger oil supply or temperature/pressure sensors, etc.

 

[u20251001]

The ultimate question which is not been answered is how much longer would the bypass system make the engine last vs. using high quality oil and filters and changing it on a reasonable basis.

That's what I aim to find out barring a collision, hail storm, theft, or market change in prices that cuts my efforts short.

Derek, with the 900k Powerstroke has a teardown of the engine that had the Insane Diesel bypass installed nearly its whole life and used as a commercial RV hauler.
You Won’t Believe What We Found! Inside the 900,000-Mile Engine

 

[CarbonSteel]

That's what I aim to find out barring a collision, hail storm, theft, or market change in prices that cuts my efforts short.

Derek, with the 900k Powerstroke has a teardown of the engine that had the Insane Diesel bypass installed nearly its whole life and used as a commercial RV hauler.
You Won’t Believe What We Found! Inside the 900,000-Mile Engine

Not to rain on that, but all you have to do is search, there are plenty of engines that have used normal maintenance products and have lasted 500,000 miles or more. The POS 3.6L Wrangler engine managed 625,000 with no special anything and believe me that's a miracle given the fact that mine died at 70K despite meticulous maintenance.

 

[23OBX2.7]

I thought the oil change was very simple I don't see what all the fuss is about the drain plug, housing and filter it's very straight forward, clean and simple.

Filter price is nothing compared to cost of Pennzoil Euro Synthetic 5W40 every 3000 miles and 93 octane @ 15 MPG inner city.

Obviously with composite parts sensitivity to over torque is all I see as a noteable difference, otherwise clean and lube orings etc and make sure drain plug is seated.

I kinda like how Ford saves weight with composite parts as much as they can while ensuring the crash cage is very robust. I love my composite bumpers but would like more beefy full composite under body protect to drive over the new flexible mid road stupid signage that's popping up everywhere haha.

 

[u20251001]

I thought the oil change was very simple I don't see what all the fuss is about the drain plug, housing and filter it's very straight forward, clean and simple.

The oil change goons stripped mine out (skidplate on Bronco, oil pan plug on Powerstroke, ruined a $1300 aluminum oil pan on another) which is why both of mine are now toolless (skidplate on the Bronco included, excluding the bypass filter bolt on the Powerstroke).​

Filter price is nothing compared to cost of Pennzoil Euro Synthetic 5W40 every 3000 miles and 93 octane @ 15 MPG inner city.

Agreed, the cost of fuel and oil change supplies is no concern. I've got a new place down the street with 90 non-ethanol I'm thinking about switching to. Even the bypass filter parts are a non-issue. However, I am agitated about that overpriced bent metal compressor bracket I needed to top side mount the bypass filter.​

Obviously with composite parts sensitivity to over torque is all I see as a noteable difference, otherwise clean and lube orings etc and make sure drain plug is seated.

I did not even think about over tightening that part. The benefit of the spin-on filter is you can install/remove by hand to hopefully circumvent the oil change goons carelessness if you have to use them.​

I kinda like how Ford saves weight with composite parts as much as they can while ensuring the crash cage is very robust.

For some things I do too. On my Powerstroke there's a composite fuel filter under the hood that is prone to cracking and engine fires thereafter. I've had a number of fuel related composite parts crack so I'm not a fan of using them universally.​

 

[redone17]

My first report from Horizon states that my dilution is 7.7!!! That was only after 2000 miles too (using what I assume to be Motorcraft). Not ok. Ford fleet vehicle that was driven 8500 miles in a month w/o an oil change that I’m aware of.

Metals are bonkers too. Not sure what to think of this…I guess I can’t really worry until the next service since now I know what’s in there.

Changed to Motul 5w30 and will run another report after another 5000. Part of me wonders if I should pull it at 2500.

I have an extremely short commute. I had a feeling that was causing issues in my 2021. We’ll see if the new MPC motor is any different.

Might have to change grades.

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