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Bottle Jack Lifting Points?

userdude

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Looking to get the wheel off the ground for a tire change. Obv can use the axle for the rear, but I believe at the front-most frame location you need quite a bit of lift to get the front wheel off the ground (SAS), more than a 18in bottle jack can do.

Looking to do this (yes its a Jeep but its the idea):
1784830742572-rv.webp


I figure if I shape a piece of 2x4 with holes for the strut bolts, I can lift just the wheel up and get it off. Or maybe fill that recess to the left and position the jack contact closer to the wheel (and away from the strut cutout)

1784830840224-nf.webp
I've used a cinder block before but not sure how much they can hold. I've heard of people keeping chunks of wood in the back to use with a bottle jack. You might google search bronco6g bottle jack wood block and see if it finds any threads where people talk about it and show pics.
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razehound

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I've used a cinder block before but not sure how much they can hold. I've heard of people keeping chunks of wood in the back to use with a bottle jack. You might google search bronco6g bottle jack wood block and see if it finds any threads where people talk about it and show pics.
Gotcha. Right now Im really just trying to figure out if its safe to lift from the LCA/hear that people actually do it. I can figure out the interface myself after the fact
 

userdude

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Gotcha. Right now Im really just trying to figure out if its safe to lift from the LCA/hear that people actually do it. I can figure out the interface myself after the fact
I dunno, maybe @Brian_B or @PWillette might know. Using wood beneath the jack means you're closer to the frame, which I would guess would be safer to go there. That or getting extensions is what I see most other people doing.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/bottle-jack-extension.115295/
 

Brian_B

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Wood blocking gets used all the time (called dunnage)

Have to be halfway smart about it though - you are better off using a board under a bottle jack that spreads the entire weight around than on the lifting point, where all the weight is concentrated on 2 square inches.

And not do dumb things like stack 18 boards up in a Leaning Tower of Giza configuration.



Also, I do lift from the LCAs, but I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it. I have a jack that can catch a shock mount bolt and not slide around - the front LCAs will move as you lift on them. They can hold the weight just fine though

In the rear it’s all good. Just make sure you are on a solid spot and not, say, a non-gusseted collar around a control arm mount.
 
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razehound

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I dunno, maybe @Brian_B or @PWillette might know. Using wood beneath the jack means you're closer to the frame, which I would guess would be safer to go there. That or getting extensions is what I see most other people doing.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/bottle-jack-extension.115295/
Okay
Wood blocking gets used all the time (called dunnage)

Have to be halfway smart about it though - you are better off using a board under a bottle jack that spreads the entire weight around than on the lifting point, where all the weight is concentrated on 2 square inches.

And not do dumb things like stack 18 boards up in a Leaning Tower of Giza configuration.



Also, I do lift from the LCAs, but I wouldn’t necessarily recommend it. I have a jack that can catch a shock mount bolt and not slide around - the front LCAs will move as you lift on them. They can hold the weight just fine though

In the rear it’s all good. Just make sure you are on a solid spot and not, say, a non-gusseted collar around a control arm mount.
Yeah that would be what I am aiming for. A way to grab that LCA lower surface. So you're catching the more central bolt yes? (rear/bottom one in my pic)

The issue Im trying to avoid is suspension droop. Obv not a problem in the rear bc youre using the axle. But in the front, you'd have to use the LCA to avoid the long articulation of the front.

So I guess it would also be helpful to know what the required lift travel is for the front wheel to lift off the ground when lifting at the marked frame point (the one with the arrow). Most 6,8,12ton bottle jacks have a travel of 5-6". Is that enough to get the wheel off the ground with suspension droop? I don't want to buy a bottle jack and then have to put it on a block and fully extend the screw and pump it to its absolute max travel just to change a front tire.
 

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Brian_B

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These things can droop a lot - which was why I started picking up at the control arms / axle tube. Especially the rear. And especially @SierraBronco

When I was on 35’s, I have an 18” floor jack that could pick from the frame and just barely get the tire off the ground with droop. Now that I’m on 38s it won’t do that anymore. I have to use a 5” extension (which I use in the rear), or lift from the control arms (which I often do, illadvisedly, in the front)

I don’t know that any standard bottle jack will get you there though. The Bunker Industries one will though
 

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These things can droop a lot - which was why I started picking up at the control arms / axle tube. Especially the rear. And especially @SierraBronco

When I was on 35’s, I have an 18” floor jack that could pick from the frame and just barely get the tire off the ground with droop. Now that I’m on 38s it won’t do that anymore. I have to use a 5” extension (which I use in the rear), or lift from the control arms (which I often do, illadvisedly, in the front)

I don’t know that any standard bottle jack will get you there though. The Bunker Industries one will though
I actually reduced our clearance via trailing arms so we have a great jacking point now. But those retards with portals gotta get creative.

 

userdude

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I actually reduced our clearance via trailing arms so we have a great jacking point now. But those retards with portals gotta get creative.

I see you got that bottle jack from One Wrong Move Off Road.
 

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