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Big Bend, "Cheap lift," 35" tires - stress on drive train?

SixGDoubleB

Big Bend
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Setup: 2023 Big Bend, 2-door, 2.3L, automatic trans, stock 3.73 gears. No rear locker. 6-year 60K Ford warranty as I intend to keep this for a long time.

Dealer customized before purchase: "cheap lift" (I'm pretty sure a Rough Country, trying to get this verified), Mickey Thompson wheels, 35" BF Goodrich AT tires.

My mods: Rust-proofed underneath, Besttop half-top, improved stereo.

Status: Exactly one year old, around 7000 miles, mostly suburban, some freeway, some off-roading. No problems at all. Off roading is great -- aired down to 15, climbed over a few obstacles, went through water, had it at 30-degree angle, controlled steep climbs, controlled steep drops.

Speedometer shows exactly correct speed. MPG is around 21 highway, 17 in town. Love the tall ride height with view over Range Rover rooftops. Love the big, wide tires that help me corner without worrying about rollover. Smooth and quiet on the freeway. In "Normal" mode, drives OK, a little sluggish off the line. In "Sport" mode, accelerates fast, especially with 93 gas.

Dealer stated they stand by their lift. However now I that I'm learning more, I'm concerned that this setup is putting undue pressure on the drive train and/or steering. I don't want to be a fool that is heading for a costly repair.

How long can I drive it like this before issues can crop up? I'm a "take it easy" kind of driver.

Should I take action now? If so, what should I do?

- Drop the tires to 34"? (I don't want 33" if I can avoid it)

- Change the gearing to 4.27?

- Expert ideas?
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TX-Dennis

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Just drive it. IF it breaks, fix it then.

The most likely thing to break off road is a tie rod. Maybe carry a spare while off-road and the tools to change it. Most broken tie rods have been on lifted units with 37 - 40 inch tires.

You state that you're a careful driver. I agree with that practice. Can you break a tie rod or steering rack? Yes. Is it likely? No. With no lockers, you're unlikely to take extreme trails.
 

mpeugeot

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Setup: 2023 Big Bend, 2-door, 2.3L, automatic trans, stock 3.73 gears. No rear locker. 6-year 60K Ford warranty as I intend to keep this for a long time.

Dealer customized before purchase: "cheap lift" (I'm pretty sure a Rough Country, trying to get this verified), Mickey Thompson wheels, 35" BF Goodrich AT tires.

My mods: Rust-proofed underneath, Besttop half-top, improved stereo.

Status: Exactly one year old, around 7000 miles, mostly suburban, some freeway, some off-roading. No problems at all. Off roading is great -- aired down to 15, climbed over a few obstacles, went through water, had it at 30-degree angle, controlled steep climbs, controlled steep drops.

Speedometer shows exactly correct speed. MPG is around 21 highway, 17 in town. Love the tall ride height with view over Range Rover rooftops. Love the big, wide tires that help me corner without worrying about rollover. Smooth and quiet on the freeway. In "Normal" mode, drives OK, a little sluggish off the line. In "Sport" mode, accelerates fast, especially with 93 gas.

Dealer stated they stand by their lift. However now I that I'm learning more, I'm concerned that this setup is putting undue pressure on the drive train and/or steering. I don't want to be a fool that is heading for a costly repair.

How long can I drive it like this before issues can crop up? I'm a "take it easy" kind of driver.

Should I take action now? If so, what should I do?

- Drop the tires to 34"? (I don't want 33" if I can avoid it)

- Change the gearing to 4.27?

- Expert ideas?
Drive it. If you want to make it "right" later then go for it. If you have a 2" or less spacer lift, it's not going to be a problem.

I have a 2 door Bronco OBX with the suspension from a Badlands currently. I have run tires from 32" to 35" with no problems (although I have 4.27 gears and a 2.7) and based on my limited experience (99,700 miles), I would not even think twice about it. Like you, I am a 'take it easy' driver.

IMG_20221006_185615.jpg
 

Brian_B

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My dealer did the exact same thing: 2.5” RC lift, 35” MT Baja Legends, KMC rims

I’ve done some light wheeling on mine - no issues so far that I could attribute to the lift. Just hit 30k miles.

I do have a bit shorter gearing (4.46 - manual trans) but I think unless you do some serious wheeling it’s fine for day to day stuff. I’ve also since modded a decent amount of stuff, but still have a lift and 35’s

I agree with the general consensus - drive it
until you either break something or find something you want to upgrade.
 

CMillBronco

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Similar here 2 inch 2.3l with Auto and 35's, I did the Rough Country Steering sleeve's and Tie Rod braces just for piece of mind, that's not doing it right but will get us by. I also carry both tie rods and a kit to replace when off roading. After seeing how much $$$ and labor to do it right was this was the best solution for us.
 

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Muffin Top

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How long can I drive it like this before issues can crop up? I'm a "take it easy" kind of driver.

Should I take action now? If so, what should I do?

Ya know, I tend to run it in rear-wheel drive almost all the time. I only use the full-time 4 in slippery conditions.


In rear-wheel, the front CVs are receiving no torque via >99% of my driving. No surface pressure on the CVs (no PxV, to use the engineering lingo), no mechanical wear.
 

Owl

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Well, putting 35s with 3.73 gearing seems pretty tall... but if that is what the dealer put on before selling it to you... doesn't that put the problem squarely on them for the next six years?

Seems like it should... unless there is wording in your contract stating otherwise.
 

Aonarch

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34s are better for your gear ratio (Not a wear thing), but you will be ok with that spacer lift since you are on the base suspension.

Personally I'd want to upgrade to a much better suspension setup, but that is just me.
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