Belltech 4-7.5" Lift Kit. Front and Rear Trail Performance Coilovers - feedback / reviews?

[Rancid]

Hey guys, looking for anyone currently running the Belltech 4-7.5" Lift Kit. Front and Rear Trail Performance Coilovers. I was just hoping for some pictures, feedback, videos, installation tips, do’s, dont’s. Ect

Looking to get into the kit but there’s really no information out about them or feedback.

Sponsored

 

[SierraBronco]

Hey guys, looking for anyone currently running the Belltech 4-7.5" Lift Kit. Front and Rear Trail Performance Coilovers. I was just hoping for some pictures, feedback, videos, installation tips, do’s, dont’s. Ect

Looking to get into the kit but there’s really no information out about them or feedback.

What size tires are you wanting to run with this? Are you planning on wheeling it?

 

[Rancid]

37 or 38s and yes light to moderate off-roading nothing to crazy a lot of rocky creeks in SW Ohio river valley that we cross when coyote hunting as well that this may help with.

 

[PWillette]

No experience with Belltech but you don't need to go up 4" to run 37s...2" above sasquatch will do it. I'm a firm believer in keeping the center of gravity as low as possible.

Not sure what's included w/ the Belltech kit but if you're going up 4" I would hope it included new UCAs, diff. drop, adjustable rear links (upper and lower) and rear trac-bar relocation bracket.

 

[Rancid]

No experience with Belltech but you don't need to go up 4" to run 37s...2" above sasquatch will do it. I'm a firm believer in keeping the center of gravity as low as possible.

Not sure what's included w/ the Belltech kit but if you're going up 4" I would hope it included new UCAs, diff. drop, adjustable rear links (upper and lower) and rear trac-bar relocation bracket.

I already have ungraded UCA the kit comes with anti sway bar, the coil overs, x2 skid plates, control arms and track bars, roll-center correction bracket, and a few other odds and ends. On a non sas I can expect to get 7.5” of lift and with trimming be able to likely comfortably fit over 38s from talking to the rep at belltech. However they recommend sticking with 37s for full articulation.

 

[PWillette]

I already have ungraded UCA the kit comes with anti sway bar, the coil overs, x2 skid plates, control arms and track bars, roll-center correction bracket, and a few other odds and ends. On a non sas I can expect to get 7.5” of lift and with trimming be able to likely comfortably fit over 38s from talking to the rep at belltech. However they recommend sticking with 37s for full articulation.

I forgot to mention the knuckles. The kit looks pretty complete, just hard to tell the quality in the picture. 7" of lift is ALOT! I'd be concerned that the everyday ride/handling will suffer. Post up pics if you pull the trigger.

 

[userdude]

That is a lot of lift, one where I'd hazard you're actually making it more likely you don't enjoy it once installed.

Are you going big for water fording clearance? Why so big? For probably a similar or lower price, you could do an adjustable 2" lift. With 38's, that's 3.5" of lift, 2.5" of that lifting the diff if you're on 33's currently.

 

[1st 75th ranger]

What size tires are you wanting to run with this? Are you planning on wheeling it?

i have factory sas 21 bd 4dr running 36x12.5x17 with 0 rub at any articulation ..i have tried lol

 

[SierraBronco]

i have factory sas 21 bd 4dr running 36x12.5x17 with 0 rub at any articulation ..i have tried lol

Personally, I think that much lift and 38’s is going to cause issues, especially with factory CV’s and steering rack. Just the nature of IFS. I’d delete the crash bars and get bigger fenders to minimize how much lift is needed for the bigger tires. Also take the ridiculous broncbuster braces to a recycling center and try to get as much of your money back as you can, then spend it on tacobell or something. Carry spare tierods and adjust your driving style as these Broncos can’t be wheeled in the same manner as a solid-axle rig. If you’re doing the kinds of things that would normally break a tierod, those braces are gonna leave you with a broken steering rack on the trail one day.

Good luck!

 

[1st 75th ranger]

Personally, I think that much lift and 38’s is going to cause issues, especially with factory CV’s and steering rack. Just the nature of IFS. I’d delete the crash bars and get bigger fenders to minimize how much lift is needed for the bigger tires. Also take the ridiculous broncbuster braces to a recycling center and try to get as much of your money back as you can, then spend it on tacobell or something. Carry spare tierods and adjust your driving style as these Broncos can’t be wheeled in the same manner as a solid-axle rig. If you’re doing the kinds of things that would normally break a tierod, those braces are gonna leave you with a broken steering rack on the trail one day.

Good luck!

i mud often hate crewling

Personally, I think that much lift and 38’s is going to cause issues, especially with factory CV’s and steering rack. Just the nature of IFS. I’d delete the crash bars and get bigger fenders to minimize how much lift is needed for the bigger tires. Also take the ridiculous broncbuster braces to a recycling center and try to get as much of your money back as you can, then spend it on tacobell or something. Carry spare tierods and adjust your driving style as these Broncos can’t be wheeled in the same manner as a solid-axle rig. If you’re doing the kinds of things that would normally break a tierod, those braces are gonna leave you with a broken steering rack on the trail one day.

Good luck!

i mud often and 90 strt/10 off & almost no rock crawling so i m not so concerned with steering rack yet
in n2021 the soft point as told was tie rods so that was my direction and i like the look
but thanks for your point of view

 

[Noremac]

I was going to go with the 4-7.5" kit on my sasquatch badlands, but decided to keep it lower. currently 2"over sasquatch on 37x12.50 ko2, and going to go with an icon setup or long travel style suspension up front instead..

I would love to get another inch or so of height out of it and toss true 38's on

 

[Gonzo]

I was going to go with the 4-7.5" kit on my sasquatch badlands, but decided to keep it lower. currently 2"over sasquatch on 37x12.50 ko2, and going to go with an icon setup or long travel style suspension up front instead..

I would love to get another inch or so of height out of it and toss true 38's on

Looks great! I am about to move to the Fox 2.5 and go 38's > will post pics when I get done. UR rig looks good right now though!

 

[SierraBronco]

i mud often hate crewling

i mud often and 90 strt/10 off & almost no rock crawling so i m not so concerned with steering rack yet
in n2021 the soft point as told was tie rods so that was my direction and i like the look
but thanks for your point of view

Think of the tierods as a fuse. (Aka a fuse-able link) They’re an easily changed component that fails first to protect the rest of the system. Blowing a fuse is preferred over melting wires. Breaking a tierod is preferred over destroying a rack. People breaking tierods are putting on big lifts and tires then saying “I didn’t even do anything it just snapped!” Look at the increased angle of the tierods with a lift kit and it should be clear why they break sooner. Now add the additional weight and traction of those tires. We could also discuss metal fatigue where you might have got away with something before and they break on an obstacle far simpler in the future. But this is all protecting the steering rack unless you install a “bigger fuse.”

 

[Dcrase]

I do not know if this will be helpful, but there is a guy that runs the Belltech lift on a white bronco that wheels with the Trail Militia. They post a lot of videos on YouTube. He seems to be able to crawl without issues. You may be able to reach out to them and ask what their experience has been.

 

[1st 75th ranger]

Think of the tierods as a fuse. (Aka a fuse-able link) They’re an easily changed component that fails first to protect the rest of the system. Blowing a fuse is preferred over melting wires. Breaking a tierod is preferred over destroying a rack. People breaking tierods are putting on big lifts and tires then saying “I didn’t even do anything it just snapped!” Look at the increased angle of the tierods with a lift kit and it should be clear why they break sooner. Now add the additional weight and traction of those tires. We could also discuss metal fatigue where you might have got away with something before and they break on an obstacle far simpler in the future. But this is all protecting the steering rack unless you install a “bigger fuse.”

yes your 100% right
im 90% street mud !0% no crawling as i hate the bang sounds lol
so for me the over priced tie rod brace is just pretty like others cosmetics

Sponsored