Audio upgrade for dummies

[The Deal]

So I’ve watched YouTube vids, searched posts here and googled. No shortage of information but the problem is an audio idiot like me trying to make sense of it all and put all of these different options together. I searched but didn’t find a post like this so forgive me.

I have a 2024 base audio system. I do have a dummy sub in the rear. I’m looking for richer fuller sound. What are the best simple changes I should make?

My thought is to do the Kicker sub in the dummy box with the Fusion amp, forscan it to work. Then add the 6.5 kickers in the rear with the new enclosures from SSV. Once these are all in, add the Kicker Key200.4 and go through the process with the mic and it setting itself up.

My question is, is this a reasonable course of action? Will the Kicker Key and the fusion amp work ok together? Will the kicker key “hear” the new sub/fusion amp combo and new SSV speakers in the rear and work its magic to balance it all out and make it sound good?

I don’t understand anything about Ohms and channels and bass deletes etc… I just need someone to be like yeah do these 2 or 3 things, they all work together and it’s going to sound a lot better.

thanks in advance for the help and for hopefully not flaming an admitted audio idiot lol

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[FreddieLee]

You're definitely on the right track with the Forscan changes to add a subwoofer. While you're in Forscan, disable the factory EQ.

Best advice, ignore recommendations to replace your 4" dash speakers with 4" aftermarket speakers, and ignore recommendations to replace the kick panel woofers with 6.5" coaxial speakers that you will not be able to hear, even when driven by an amplifier.

Save yourself the time and frustration, and go with a 2-way tweeter / woofer component set with passive crossovers.

Until a harness is made to run the Key amplifier is Biamp mode, it is a complete waste of time and money.

 

[swamp2]

A lot of folks have been very happy (me included) with nothing but adding the KK 200.4. But that is for those with a sub. In your case, I'd try sub and KK only and test then decide if you really want/need more time/cost/hassle. GL.

 

[HolidayDog]

Thanks for posting this….i know nothing about sound systems and electronics.

I am planning on the kk 200.4 and see if that helps as much as others have reported.

watching

 

[Alassise]

I paid a shop to install my system because the last time installed a system in my car was early 90's. Now, almost 2 years after installing it and reading almost every installation on this forum, I am confident that I can do it myself and save me some money.

The most important thing is budget and amplification (IMO). Why? a small mediocre amp will sound better than the factory, but will not allow you to expand or upgrade in the future, nor will produce the clean fuller sound you are looking for. Component speakers not necessarily sound better than coaxial's on the dash and kick panel without DSP (expensive) and/or expensive speakers.

On my 22 Badlands (non BO or sub option), I wanted JL audio all around. MY shop, specialized on boats and ATV's installs and carried a lot of pricey marine audio components. We discussed what I wanted and they made recommendations based on my budget. Originally I selected JL C3 components for the dash and kick panels and they called me to let me know that they did not liked the way it sounded and they recommended a 4in coax on the dash instead of the 1in tweeter. Distance is an issue with component speakers. This set up worked for me.

My system breakdown:
PAC LPA-E.4 Loc PRO Advance line output converter and harness.
DASH and REAR PODS: 4" Memphis audio PRX4.
AMPLIFICATION: JL Audio XD 700/5
SUBWOOFER: JL Audio's AC208LG-W3v3 (they also have a powered version)
Wiring

Pros: Clean full and punchy bass / The dual 8's pack a punch. You won't win SPL competitions with it but it is enough bass. I listen to everything and the system is enough for me...for now. My volume level with top on is 6-7, top down 10 at cruising speed. No distortion at 15 or higher. Saved money by not installing a DSP or rear pods, and did not have to use FORSCAN to make the rear speakers work.

Cons: Lost some room in the rear area and cubby box (amp was installed at this location). For peace of mind, I purchased the Ford (hinged) metal molle enclosure. As expected, it rattled with some bass notes. Installed Killmat on the trunk floor, metal lid and panels and fixed the rattling up to 60hz. Lost rear fader capabilities (not a biggie to me).

My suggestion:
Determine a solid budget.
Go to Crutchfield and compare speakers and what fits on the stock location. They will provide great guidance on Ohms and loads.
Select a great 5 channel amp (I have a JL Audio XD 700/5, pricey, but does the job very well)
Select line output converters and applicable harness. Do not let any shop work on your bronco without verifying that they have done broncos before and they are surgeons when it comes to splicing and wiring your rig, lots of butcher installs here.
Select speakers!!! for stock locations and subwoofer.
Install and enjoy the sound.

If you do decide to install a sub on the dummy location, make sure that you use plenty of sound deadening. It will rattle the flimsy paneling on the bronco. During install, if panels are removed, and bare metal is exposed, sound deadening is a most.

What will I do different now?
Will have splurge on dash speaker panels from MTI acoustics and JL Audio C7's, but that will have doubled the budget and cost me a second honeymoon...

Let us know what you decide to do. Hope you get the sound you expect and need.

 

[zombie]

Best advice, ignore recommendations to replace your 4" dash speakers with 4" aftermarket speakers, and ignore recommendations to replace the kick panel woofers with 6.5" coaxial speakers that you will not be able to hear, even when driven by an amplifier.

Best advice is to ignore this advice.

The $3 paper cone speakers speakers can be replaced with a $25 or $30 set of cheap replacements and it's an easy upgrade. The cheapest components in just about any OEM stereo are the speakers, and they're the cheapest and easiest components to replace.

 

[Rydfree]

Best advice is to ignore this advice.

The $3 paper cone speakers speakers can be replaced with a $25 or $30 set of cheap replacements and it's an easy upgrade. The cheapest components in just about any OEM stereo are the speakers, and they're the cheapest and easiest components to replace.

The speakers in my '23 BL high pkg are not paper but poly cone and sound pretty darn good. I added a 8" DVC Kicker sub and Key 500 amp and it sounds very good. I owned a audio shop for 20 years back in the day so maybe my hearing is shot ,lol.

 

[FreddieLee]

Best advice is to ignore this advice.

The $3 paper cone speakers speakers can be replaced with a $25 or $30 set of cheap replacements and it's an easy upgrade. The cheapest components in just about any OEM stereo are the speakers, and they're the cheapest and easiest components to replace.

I actually said to replace those $3 paper cone speakers with a 2-way component set with passive crossovers instead of replacing them with coaxial speakers.

 

[zombie]

I actually said to replace those $3 paper cone speakers with a 2-way component set with passive crossovers instead of replacing them with coaxial speakers.

Fair enough, seems like overkill to me.

 

[indio22]

I actually said to replace those $3 paper cone speakers with a 2-way component set with passive crossovers instead of replacing them with coaxial speakers.

I was actually confused about that part of your original post. By "2-way component set", do you mean putting both a small tweeter and separate woofer in the dash top location? (Would have to be a woofer on the smaller side to fit there I assume.) Or only a tweeter in the dash, and the woofer somewhere else in the vehicle?

 

[Switchworks_Kyle]

Hi Rich,

I think you will be very happy with our Pods and they make for an easy plug-n-play install.

You can message me for a discount code to our site as well.

Thanks!

 

[FreddieLee]

Fair enough, seems like overkill to me.

Nah, not really.

Not sure why, but the common theme here is to replace the 4” speakers with 4” aftermarket coaxial speakers, then add 300hz-600hz filters (bass blockers) to remove distortion caused by excessive bass to get clarity from them, so you’re basically turning that 4” coaxial into a tweeter, but it’s obviously not a tweeter because it’s still producing frequencies above 300hz or 600hz that detract from clarity.

Using a 4” coaxial to support the entire front sound stage is asking more that it’s capable of, and a tweeter does a much better job of that, so why not just start there?

Add woofers to the kick panels to restore the bass missing from the front stage instead of an inaudible, aftermarket 6.5” coaxial speaker.

 

[FreddieLee]

I was actually confused about that part of your original post. By "2-way component set", do you mean putting both a small tweeter and separate woofer in the dash top location? (Would have to be a woofer on the smaller side to fit there I assume.) Or only a tweeter in the dash, and the woofer somewhere else in the vehicle?

Tweeter in the dash, and a woofer in the kick panel location. No different than most modern cars being driven off the lot today.

 

[The Deal]

So I did say this was for dummies and a dummy I am. The sub in the back is not a dummy sub. It’s a real live sub lol.
So that’s good news. I think the answer is the Kicker Key and upgrading the rear pods. It’s funny because there’s so much talk about the Bronco systems sucking that I just kinda felt like yeah it sucks! But I’m kind of wondering if they seriously improved it in the 24’s because mine really isn’t terrible. Though, there is some room for improvement so. I had the JK Alpine system which was awesome so I might just be spoiled lol thanks for all the reply’s and feel free to keep updating!

 

[HighVelocity]

Turn it all off and use a portable bluetooth speaker on the dash.

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