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Another Broken Axle / CV Joint

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rrknapp

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It has been written about on this forum already, but if you want to look through fords part system yourself you can. This is a pretty easy to navigate link https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/Fo...rol-Arm-Front--Lower/105745267/MB3Z3079A.html.

The spring/shock is different and the axle housing is different with SAS. The steering rack also has different part numbers, but all other components are the SAME. Same part numbers for arms and axles.

Edit: After some more digging, it looks like I was wrong. It appears that there was some media release that claimed that all axle shafts were the same that was repeated here, but they do have different part numbers.
So it looks like the control arms are the same between models, but rack, axles, and half shafts do change.
The part link you provide appears to be for an AWD Bronco Sport. Which brings up a good point. What a crazy/confusing naming convention for the Bronco. It's the most confusing of any series of all time. What is the correct term for new Bronco? Dealerships say "you mean The "Big" Bronco". Any way, If I type in my wife's VIN to provided link, I get no parts.
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710-oil-614

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They called my wife to tell her Rough Country lift had changed the geometry and it will happen again. Here we go!!!........ trying to explain that geometry hasn't changed and the 2 inch spacers are a cheaper way to achieve the same lift as the stock 2 inch longer coil-overs. They will get back to me regarding warranty. I said fix it and I'll fight warranty later. The estimate for changing 1 CV axle is $1,100. Let's see where this ends up.

Any predictions?
Maybe, just maybe, they do the right thing. Although the tech knows nothing about lift geometry, he does admit Ford intended this vehicle to be modified. To be continued............
So I would actually disagree that the spacers don't impact geometry, I would never put spacers on my Bronco or Tacoma to achieve a lift just for looks.

When you add a spacer to your suspension you are now occupying 2" of space that your coil spring used to occupy - in turn limiting travel. Let's say your shock has 8 inches of travel - 4 inches up and 4 inches down. Tossing a 2" spacer in at the top is going to reduce your up travel marginally but will limit the down travel significantly.

That extra pressure from the decreased down travel exerts force on the CV axle.

If you were turning on it with 35s while the front was engaged you were putting it under strain.

Should it have broken? Probably not. Is it surprising that it did? No.
 
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rrknapp

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Why do you say this? With a small spring puck spacer to equal the lift of the sasquatch, everything would be identical geometry wise. Same control arm geometry, same axle shafts, same tie rod, same lengths, same angles, same droop.

The front axle internals would be weaker, but outside of that and the gear ratios, your geometries would be identical and I do not see how it would be any more stressful than the SAS.
Thank you! YOU ARE 100% CORRECT, and all the automotive engineers agree. I don't know why this is so confusing for some. A 2" spacer is a perfectly good/cheap alternative for someone after a specific look. Whether they leave to pavement or not.
 

710-oil-614

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Thank you! YOU ARE 100% CORRECT, and all the automotive engineers agree. I don't know why this is so confusing for some. A 2" spacer is a perfectly good/cheap alternative for someone after a specific look. Whether they leave to pavement or not.
LOL till you snap CV axle on gravel....

At least it looks good sitting there.
 

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Thank you! YOU ARE 100% CORRECT, and all the automotive engineers agree. I don't know why this is so confusing for some. A 2" spacer is a perfectly good/cheap alternative for someone after a specific look. Whether they leave to pavement or not.
That maybe true but you are going to lose the warranty on said items...
 

ryridesmotox

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Reading this thread is making me nervous to put 285/70/17’s on instead of the 255/70/18’s that are on my OBX.

Mine is mainly an on-road vehicle. We will be doing some light off-roading at most.
I have 285/70r17s on mine. I'm still stock suspension height though. They seem to be fine. I have have about 2k miles on it as it sits, about 3 offroad trips to some mild/intermediate trails. If you drive reasonably it's not a big deal. I don't hammer the throttle and bounce over stuff.
 

Aviboy97

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I have 285/70r17s on mine. I'm still stock suspension height though. They seem to be fine. I have have about 2k miles on it as it sits, about 3 offroad trips to some mild/intermediate trails. If you drive reasonably it's not a big deal. I don't hammer the throttle and bounce over stuff.
I don’t see an increase in 16mm changing the cv geometry at all. I don’t plan on lifting it. Only added stress would be extra weight of the tires/wheels, which isn’t all that much.
 

EveryDayBronco

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Reading this thread is making me nervous to put 285/70/17’s on instead of the 255/70/18’s that are on my OBX.

Mine is mainly an on-road vehicle. We will be doing some light off-roading at most.
Is there a 255/75r18 tire that you like?

Changing from 70 to 75 increases diameter and often that is enough to achieve that desired look to fill the wheel well without messing things up.
 

Aviboy97

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Is there a 255/75r18 tire that you like?

Changing from 70 to 75 increases diameter and often that is enough to achieve that desired look to fill the wheel well without messing things up.
Na…I already have my tires. Just waiting for my rims to arrive.
 

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ryridesmotox

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I don’t see an increase in 16mm changing the cv geometry at all. I don’t plan on lifting it. Only added stress would be extra weight of the tires/wheels, which isn’t all that much.
Yea I wasn't saying the CV is different. But the other reply, you said you were reluctant to get a 33 inch-ish tire. The CV angles should be the same since the suspension is the same. Just the added weight of the wheel and different offset (I'm running 0 offset) will increase some of the stress on components, but not significantly. I don't want to thread jack the post but I've got several pics in the velocity blue bronco thread if you want to see. 33s are about perfect to my eye.
 

BlueBronco

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The lift increases the angle for the joints in the drive shafts and as a result they break.

These guys have a fix to prevent it from happening,

Why is this New Ford Bronco Part Failing? - YouTube
Did you watch the video? The fix they talk about is a larger bushing used to keep the steering rack engaged and prevent stripping. The other product on their website reinforces the inner tie-rods. Neither prevent cv axles from breaking due to increased angles.
 

vrtical

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Thank you! YOU ARE 100% CORRECT, and all the automotive engineers agree. I don't know why this is so confusing for some. A 2" spacer is a perfectly good/cheap alternative for someone after a specific look. Whether they leave to pavement or not.
BTW I am an engineer, and you should join the group of people that should read the book I posted, it wasn't initially directed at you but now it definitely applies.
 

Ford Motor Company

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I also broke front passenger axle at the CV joint. Big Bend. 35inch tires, 2 inch Rough Country lift. I was in my driveway on a course gravel parking pad. I was backing up, passenger rear wheel spun. Thought, perfect time to try 4W options. I wanted to crawl out of hole, so did not use much pedal. I could not get out of the hole under any 4w modes. Gas'ed it and spun out. Gave the keys back to my wife (her ride) and said, your 4wd sucks. I am very seasoned 4wd guy. The next day she calls me on the way home from work and said there is a noise coming from the front end. Looked at the axle and boot twisted. Yes broken axle. Towed to dealership 5 days ago and still don't think they pulled it into the shop. I know it's broken, service dept wont know until they actually put eye on it. Today, I called parts dept to make sure they had new axle in stock, if not I would order. I was told that there are 8 axles on back order and should be at the parts hub on 1/14. That is all I know to date 1/10/22. Lots of posting here and didn't get through them all. I think there were two other reports of broken axles. Did I miss any. Picture: x represents rear tire and 0 the front. i filled in the divot for rear but realize after the front wheel barely spun if any at all.

Update: Dealership short staffed, another Week+ to get it pulled into the shop. Ford agreed to tow it to another dealership today, 1/13. They called my wife to tell her Rough Country lift had changed the geometry and it will happen again. Here we go!!!........ trying to explain that geometry hasn't changed and the 2 inch spacers are a cheaper way to achieve the same lift as the stock 2 inch longer coil-overs. They will get back to me regarding warranty. I said fix it and I'll fight warranty later. The estimate for changing 1 CV axle is $1,100. Let's see where this ends up.

Any predictions?
Maybe, just maybe, they do the right thing. Although the tech knows nothing about lift geometry, he does admit Ford intended this vehicle to be modified. To be continued............

colr.jpg
Hi there! Can you send us a private message with your VIN and dealership info? I can look into things on my end. Thanks!
 

EveryDayBronco

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Did you watch the video? The fix they talk about is a larger bushing used to keep the steering rack engaged and prevent stripping. The other product on their website reinforces the inner tie-rods. Neither prevent cv axles from breaking due to increased angles.
Oops, wrong video! The bushing prevents the rack from separating.

For people that want big fat heavy tires, order the right build from the factory. These are too expensive to void the warranty this early!
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