74Weld Bronco Portals now available!

[Bmadda]

Awww, dude! Those gotta go! Also there's a plastic piece inside the rear of each wheelhouse held on w/3 13mm bolts. Those gotta go too, then try to force the wheelhouse back far enough to get some push pins in the bolt holes, or punch through the wheelhouse w/body bolts and zap them down tight!

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[BroncoBuckaroo]

About $19,000 over budget for me, but they are incredible.

 

[Tor148]

Awww, dude! Those gotta go! Also there's a plastic piece inside the rear of each wheelhouse held on w/3 13mm bolts. Those gotta go too, then try to force the wheelhouse back far enough to get some push pins in the bolt holes, or punch through the wheelhouse w/body bolts and zap them down tight!

Thanks, i will cut thoses off and try and find the plastic piece you are referring to.
Working on removing the rack and installing the stage 3 rack now.

 

[BAUS67]

Thanks, i will cut thoses off and try and find the plastic piece you are referring to.
Working on removing the rack and installing the stage 3 rack now.

Here are the directions for JKS kit. Page 5 shows the rear part of the install. Good pics/info to show what to do.

JKS8300.pdf (4x4media.info)

 

[Tor148]

Here are the directions for JKS kit. Page 5 shows the rear part of the install. Good pics to show what to do.

JKS8300.pdf (4x4media.info)

Awesome, thank you very much!

 

[Bored]

Do you see an issue with fitting the 40's with out body lift and suspension lift?
The fox 2.5 i am planing to not preload, and with the weight I have added i am figuring at most maybe add an 1" if any additional height.

With the nitto 40's I have slight rubbing still with 3" suspension lift, no body lift, on the front of the pinch seam, at full lock with some compression (I plan to actually trim, etc. later as necessary to let me go down 1" of suspension lift). I have a lot of residential streets where turning onto them is like a dip then speedbump. I do have my low speed adjuster at like 5 clicks firmer in the rear and 7 firmer in the front.

 

[Tor148]

With the nitto 40's I have slight rubbing still with 3" suspension lift, no body lift, on the front of the pinch seam, at full lock with some compression (I plan to actually trim, etc. later as necessary to let me go down 1" of suspension lift). I have a lot of residential streets where turning onto them is like a dip then speedbump. I do have my low speed adjuster at like 5 clicks firmer in the rear and 7 firmer in the front.

Thanks for the info, but that is with out portals, correct?

 

[Bored]

Thanks for the info, but that is with out portals, correct?

With portals.

 

[Tor148]

With portals.

Wow, with 3" suspension lift I would think you would clear no problem.
What rims are you running?
That makes it very interesting that a 38" clears stock as per 74 weld when you are only looking at a 1" difference to a 40" (all things being equal)

 

[5GENIDN]

Wow, with 3" suspension lift I would think you would clear no problem.
What rims are you running?
That makes it very interesting that a 38" clears stock as per 74 weld when you are only looking at a 1" difference to a 40" (all things being equal)

SO THERE IS THE RUB!!!! I wondered. That is why 74weld/Quinn recommends 37 to 39s....

Suspension lift should make little to no difference.... full tuck and full droop should be the same (close to it) as the stock suspension. All the suspension lift does is change where in that arc of travel the suspension hits equilibrium.

Now there will be some minor differences between manufacturers.... What is their full compressive length and what is their full droop length. In this case we are concerned about full compressive length.

Now if I remember right... need to check the numbers but I believe Bored, you are running the Kings, No I am thinking Foxes... you have both the high speed and low speed adjusters... that is Fox. I believe Kings have one of the longer compressed lengths. So if the Foxes are rubbing then anything with that compressed length or shorter will rub.... Longer compressed length ???? need to find out.

 

[87-Z28]

Compressed lengths tabulated by @Merc4x4

 

[Razorback]

SO THERE IS THE RUB!!!! I wondered. That is why 74weld/Quinn recommends 37 to 39s....

Suspension lift should make little to no difference.... full tuck and full droop should be the same (close to it) as the stock suspension. All the suspension lift does is change where in that arc of travel the suspension hits equilibrium.

Now there will be some minor differences between manufacturers.... What is their full compressive length and what is their full droop length. In this case we are concerned about full compressive length.

Now if I remember right... need to check the numbers but I believe Bored, you are running the Kings, which I believe has one of the longer compressed lengths. That means anything with a shorter compressed length will rub even worse.

So you don't think a mid travel would matter? Long travel would probably be out of the question since it would push the portals even further out... Track wider than an F150.

 

[2bigbronco]

Ok, I just got my 74 weld portals on my 7mt bronco and still have some co.puter bugs to work out.

Anyhow on the wheel topic it turns out badlands wheels ordered without the sasquatch package are 17x8 with 6-3/4 backspacing or +55mm. With some healthy grinding on the upper dual sheer steering mount they will clear the portals.... bairly but work. Im confident that any deeper backspacing wouldnt work unless you jumped to 20s. They also burry the callipers all the way inside the wheel protecting them.

 

[Fishwrinkle]

I thought the portals were going to keep the half shaft and tie rods closer to stock geo? All I have seen so far appear to max the geo out. What am I missing?

 

[87-Z28]

Good to know. You get a nice snug fit with lots of positive offset.

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