7 MT Reverse Lockout Lever

[boatingsunsation14]

Playing devil's advocate here.

AR claimed the Ford part was likely to break leaving you without reverse and crawler gears. That was part of his sales pitch for his shift knob over someone else's. But I don't remember seeing any posts on Bronco6G or TheBroncoNation where someone commented on the Ford part breaking.

I just ran this by ChatGPT. It suggested replacing the stock part with the aluminum part if a vehicle is kept long term. It also pointed out that keeping a spare Ford part in the glove box would expose it to the same temperatures, so it would also gradually degrade.

I'm wondering what alloy is being used. Some alloys show tarnish quite quickly.

We are making them out of 6061 aluminum it is a billet pc since we are making them out of a solid pc.

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[Lifeliberty]

Playing devil's advocate here.

AR claimed the Ford part was likely to break leaving you without reverse and crawler gears. That was part of his sales pitch for his shift knob over someone else's. But I don't remember seeing any posts on Bronco6G or TheBroncoNation where someone commented on the Ford part breaking.

I'm not concerned with breakage. I want to see how it feels in my hand, and I want to hear how it clinks against the brass of the boomba knob. It's something I touch multiple times a day, I want it to feel great

 

[BigFootie]

Playing devil's advocate here.

AR claimed the Ford part was likely to break leaving you without reverse and crawler gears. That was part of his sales pitch for his shift knob over someone else's. But I don't remember seeing any posts on Bronco6G or TheBroncoNation where someone commented on the Ford part breaking.

I just ran this by ChatGPT. It suggested replacing the stock part with the aluminum part if a vehicle is kept long term. It also pointed out that keeping a spare Ford part in the glove box would expose it to the same temperatures, so it would also gradually degrade.

I'm wondering what alloy is being used. Some alloys show tarnish quite quickly.

All aluminums form an aluminum oxide almost immediately after machining it. This provides some protection provided your fingers are not always sweaty! It can always be removed and polished if needed. For longer term protection, anodizing is the best protection. This essentially is a much thicker coating of aluminum oxide compared to the native aluminum oxide that forms. This is typically only economical if done in larger batches.

 

[CalvinT]

I priced anodizing at a local shop. Their minimum is $125 for type II and $175 or type III anodizing. But that price is for one part or several. So the more you have anodized at one time, the price per piece drops. I really don't want this turning dark from use over time. What suggestions do you have for finishing one of these if I get one? Or do you think I'm being overly anal about this?

 

[mjp2]

I priced anodizing at a local shop. Their minimum is $125 for type II and $175 or type III anodizing. But that price is for one part or several. So the more you have anodized at one time, the price per piece drops. I really don't want this turning dark from use over time. What suggestions do you have for finishing one of these if I get one? Or do you think I'm being overly anal about this?

If it's a concern put a ceramic coating on it before installation.

 

[HighVelocity]

I priced anodizing at a local shop. Their minimum is $125 for type II and $175 or type III anodizing. But that price is for one part or several. So the more you have anodized at one time, the price per piece drops. I really don't want this turning dark from use over time. What suggestions do you have for finishing one of these if I get one? Or do you think I'm being overly anal about this?

I worked in an anodize shop back in the day. You might be able to get a single part in with someone else's batch and not have to pay the batch fee at all. You'd have to be open to something common, Type III black by far the most common in most shops. Clear would be the next, which is actually a kind of medium gray.

If they do a bunch of Type II cosmetic stuff, you might be able to get red, blue or orange done.

So talk to the shop, find out if they would allow you to piggyback on an existing batch, typically for a regular customer.

Other than that, rattlecans are your uncle. I'll probably just throw some satin or matte clear over mine.

 

[BigFootie]

I priced anodizing at a local shop. Their minimum is $125 for type II and $175 or type III anodizing. But that price is for one part or several. So the more you have anodized at one time, the price per piece drops. I really don't want this turning dark from use over time. What suggestions do you have for finishing one of these if I get one? Or do you think I'm being overly anal about this?

I guess it depends on what you want for color. If you like the raw aluminum look, you can leave it as is and if it gets stained, you can easily refinish with some 400-600 grit paper. If you are looking to have it colored, cheapest is the rattle can but be careful off the thickness as we don’t know the design tolerances. Anodizing can be colored as well but color matching is difficult. Type II is the most standard but type III is also readily available. This is considered hard coat and it typically a bit thicker but is more robust. I don’t think this is needed for this application. Black dye can be added to either type and is quite common. Clear or natural in type II is clear but clear or natural in type III is closer to gray than clear.

Don’t hesitate to ask if you have more questions, I’ve been doing this type of work for the past 50 years and more than happy to help.

 

[boatingsunsation14]

To everyone that has placed orders or to who ever wants to buy one of the lockout levers we are anodizing the 25 from this batch black. Again send an email to my uncle Steve at [email protected] saying you want one. He will then send you an invoice through PayPal which then you can pay. We are looking at these being all shipped out next week once they come back from anodize if you have ordered one or are going to order one.

 

[Bubbbba]

To everyone that has placed orders or to who ever wants to buy one of the lockout levers we are anodizing the 25 from this batch black. Again send an email to my uncle Steve at [email protected] saying you want one. He will then send you an invoice through PayPal which then you can pay. We are looking at these being all shipped out next week once they come back from anodize if you have ordered one or are going to order one.

FYI my rattle can job is not holding up as I hoped it would (chipping) see #1 post. I am getting an black anodized version

 

[HighVelocity]

FYI my rattle can job is not holding up as I hoped it would (chipping) see #1 post. I am getting an black anodized version

Did you use a self etching primer?

 

[Bubbbba]

If it's a concern put a ceramic coating on it before installation.

No can says not needed. I scotch brighted wiped down with MEK then instructions say 2 light coats and 3rd wet coat. That is what I did

 

[CalvinT]

I think if I end up buying this, I'll have it CeraKoted. Then go for orange that's close to the Badlands orange.

 

[FloatingMoat]

And ordered. So awesome that this guy will be manufacturing this part! Now to figure out what to do for a knob since I'm not getting my AR one.

 

[HighVelocity]

Now to figure out what to do for a knob since I'm not getting my AR one.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/look-at-by-shiny-blue-knob-white-madness.104028

 

[Bubbbba]

High Velocity, what is the finish on that knob, powder coat?

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