Coilovers - changing springs to effect ride height.

[87-Z28]

5.5” of stroke in front before bump stop contact. 6” of safe stroke for 3x16x500 spring travel with 8.5” gives 2.5 inches of max preload available before spring lock up. 2” all day long.

Sponsored

 

[GreyZ]

I am at ~15 threads showing up front. Hard to get a tape measure in there easily.

Stock badlands (skids, heavy front axle) with my custom front hidden winch mount. Total weight was around 90 lbs iirc.

 

[87-Z28]

Just got the front springs swapped. Not too bad with the greyz 1” deep socket heavy hammer method.

at zero preload (hand tight) there is 0.5” of thread showing. About 6 threads.

Eyeballing with a tape measure there are about 12 threads per inch. Greyz is at about 3/4” preload then. Maybe??? @GreyZ do you know the machined thread count?

@Snacktime might have 2.5-0.75=1.75 inches of preload to play with.

I will try to get the thread count measured more accurately when I drop them into the Bronco.

Some pics.

 

[GreyZ]

Nice to see! I don't know the tpi, but 3/4" sounds about right to me. They are easier to adjust once installed, but more difficult to measure.

Are you planing to pull the lower control arm chassis side bolts to get them out? or the knuckle?

 

[87-Z28]

Nice to see! I don't know the tpi, but 3/4" sounds about right to me. They are easier to adjust once installed, but more difficult to measure.

Are you planing to pull the lower control arm chassis side bolts to get them out? or the knuckle?

When I did my 6100 bilsteins I went at it via the LCA. I was very careful with the CV axles. I think this is the easiest way. I reused a bunch of the hardware but this time I am going to replace with new. Whatever is not supplied from 4WP. I still need to look more carefully at what is in the bag. I doubt the CV axle nut is in there. Those rear strut lower bolts are fun to torque down by hand.

 

[c_walters]

These are threads I like to read! Looking at suspension for my base SAS 2door, I wheel moderate trails here on the east coast with a few trips out west planned. I’m not too heavy (full RCI skids, mod bumper, 4WP rear bumper, 35’s) and do not want a ton of lift.

I have an anti-rock sway bar on the front and planning one for the rear also unless the factory one would be recommended to help the front out. Are these spring rates mentioned more for a 4 door rather than a 2 door?

 

[TLO]

Right at 40" rear fender height, with oem 33s.

I was 38-3/4 prior to these.

Why doesn't anyone properly measure ride height? Lol
If you measure from a fix body point to the CENTER of the axle, then it doesn't matter what tires anyone runs...31's or 44's...
Makes comparing Bronco to Bronco more accurate

 

[GreyZ]

These are threads I like to read! Looking at suspension for my base SAS 2door, I wheel moderate trails here on the east coast with a few trips out west planned. I’m not too heavy (full RCI skids, mod bumper, 4WP rear bumper, 35’s) and do not want a ton of lift.

I have an anti-rock sway bar on the front and planning one for the rear also unless the factory one would be recommended to help the front out. Are these spring rates mentioned more for a 4 door rather than a 2 door?

All of the heights I have listed are for a 4 door with 2.7. If you have a 2.3 2 door I would probably go one pairing softer on springs if you want non sas height. If you want sas height, the 500/200 combo is probably a good place to start with 4wp coilovers specifically.

 

[GreyZ]

Why doesn't anyone properly measure ride height? Lol
If you measure from a fix body point to the CENTER of the axle, then it doesn't matter what tires anyone runs...31's or 44's...
Makes comparing Bronco to Bronco more accurate

I completely agree that wheel center to fender is a better method, but in practice it is quite challenging to get the estimated center of the center cap at any accuracy higher than 1/4" . I wanted a more easily repeatable measurement specifically to my bronco, which is floor to fender. Others should take my measurements with a grain of salt for their bronco as noone will have the exact same setup.

 

[Bikeric]

Why doesn't anyone properly measure ride height? Lol
If you measure from a fix body point to the CENTER of the axle, then it doesn't matter what tires anyone runs...31's or 44's...
Makes comparing Bronco to Bronco more accurate

There are 4 different fender flare options from the Factory (Sas, Non-Sas, Heritage, Braptor) plus the steel HD's that it could have been ordered with, and then the multitude of after-market options, or flare delete, or fibeglass fenders of 2" or 5" width, etc. It's impossible to settle on the "proper location" for everybody to measure from.

 

[TLO]

There are 4 different fender flare options from the Factory (Sas, Non-Sas, Heritage, Braptor) plus the steel HD's that it could have been ordered with, and then the multitude of after-market options, or flare delete, or fibeglass fenders of 2" or 5" width, etc. It's impossible to settle on the "proper location" for everybody to measure from.

I dunno...don't measure off the fender...find some sheet metal on the inside of the fender?
I guess we all only care about the stance when it's all said and done

 

[climb2descend]

Finally had some time to get my front springs swapped out. Thanks @GreyZ for bieng the guiena pig on getting that bar pin out. Used the 1" socket hammer method and it worked. Pro tip though, after struggling mightily trying to get it back into the rod end on reassembly and failing for quite a long time trying to get it to go in straight and not cock eyed I ended up holding a heat gun on the rod end for several mins and then I was able to just slide the bar pin in easily. On the other side I I tried using the same heat gun trick to make it easier to get the bar pin out and it worked great also, came right out with very light taps.

My results on swapping from the 650 lb to 550 spring , same collar position(minimum preload), I lost 1" of height. Quite happy with this result, now I can increase the preload and come back up to my previous height and ill increase traction at droop from before. I think my 225 lb rear is still a bit stiff though, I might swap that out to a 200 lb like you guys did.

 

[IwannaGOfast]

Pro tip though, after struggling mightily trying to get it back into the rod end on reassembly and failing for quite a long time trying to get it to go in straight and not cock eyed I ended up holding a heat gun on the rod end for several mins and then I was able to just slide the bar pin in easily. On the other side I I tried using the same heat gun trick to make it easier to get the bar pin out and it worked great also, came right out with very light taps.

Other option is to throw the bar pin in the freezer for a while. I always used to do that with uniballs when replacing them.

Or do both for the hotdog down a hallway effect.

 

[Rkgzx9leftcoast]

Awesome Thread. Great Info. I think Im going to swap out my 6100s to these, find the 6100s way to stiff. Debating on trying these stock, going down to lowest pre-load and see where they sit. I am on the lowest clip on my 6100s with a Zone 1" level on the front now. I like the lowest CG I can have for wheeling. I have 37s, 4 door, just skids and sliders, 37 spare as well on back.

Any Updates on spring swaps? Everyone still happy with these?

 

[GreyZ]

Still very happy with my 500/200 combo. Rides better than the rates it comes with in my opinion. Have only been street driving, but hope to get a trip in soon to test them out. If I did it again, I may even consider one step softer( to be able to run more preload and maintain this height. I would remove the zone 1" spacer though as that would over extend your front CVs in max droop.

Sponsored