Drilling Hardtop - Anyone done it? Things to know?

[EGSquatched]

I picked up a second hard top with plans to bolt a custom roof rack setup for carrying gear on. Before I just drill some holes and go to town I figured I’d get some input from the collective mind here as I didn’t have any luck searching. Thanks in advance!

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[TruckCamper]

We have a 200W solar panel on the Raptor. Just pay attention to where the thick / support sections are. Then make sure to use proper water proofing. I'd only drill through the exterior raised / ribbed sections as water won't collect or pool like the valley channels.

 

[DrillRX]

I picked up a second hard top with plans to bolt a custom roof rack setup for carrying gear on. Before I just drill some holes and go to town I figured I’d get some input from the collective mind here as I didn’t have any luck searching. Thanks in advance!

I’d really consider the Trailrax with side braces before drilling the top. Just did a 700+ mile trip with 300+Lbs in a medium Flated Air Carrier on top, without shaking, wiggle weird sounds etc. Very stable, and while not recommended, I suspect could handle much more weight.

 

[EGSquatched]

I’d really consider the Trailrax with side braces before drilling the top.

Understand the thought process, but there’s a few turn offs for me with that idea. Cost, weight, noise and functionality. I’m also impressed you managed to get 300lbs up there without noticeable squat! Trip pics look great too. I typically follow the keep it simple, stupid mentality and like being a little different. For that reason I plan to just through bolt some unistrut to my roof which will allow me to bolt a variety of different things up there. Thinking of adding a couple pieces of etrack spanning across the unistrut which will give me a platform to put firewood up there and tie down points to secure it. Then next to it mounting a large waterproof case, such as a roam case, etc for extra gear storage.

Again, open to ideas, suggestions or criticism.

 

[DrillRX]

Understand the thought process, but there’s a few turn offs for me with that idea. Cost, weight, noise and functionality. I’m also impressed you managed to get 300lbs up there without noticeable squat! Trip pics look great too. I typically follow the keep it simple, stupid mentality and like being a little different. For that reason I plan to just through bolt some unistrut to my roof which will allow me to bolt a variety of different things up there. Thinking of adding a couple pieces of etrack spanning across the unistrut which will give me a platform to put firewood up there and tie down points to secure it. Then next to it mounting a large waterproof case, such as a roam case, etc for extra gear storage.

Again, open to ideas, suggestions or criticism.

Just know that the hard top weight limit, is 110 lbs dynamic (when driving). In addition, drilling holes in it may effect its structural integrity.

The pics of the Bronco were before loaded. I had an additional 500 lbs inside the back also. Little bit of squat, but with the raised rear end when empty, it was basically level or just a tad low. Not noticeable much at all.

 

[EGSquatched]

Wow, 800lbs of cargo, impressive! Was it gold bars? LOL

Yeah I’m aware of the weight limitations but don’t see me ever having 100lbs up there, but who knows. I also plan to use backing plates on the interior to spread the weight out of an abundance of caution due to the material make up of the hard top itself.

Unfortunately I won’t have time to complete this project before my upcoming trip to Moab in a couple weeks but I plan to shortly afterwards and will update the tread at that time.

 

[DrillRX]

Wow, 800lbs of cargo, impressive! Was it gold bars? LOL

Yeah I’m aware of the weight limitations but don’t see me ever having 100lbs up there, but who knows. I also plan to use backing plates on the interior to spread the weight out of an abundance of caution due to the material make up of the hard top itself.

Unfortunately I won’t have time to complete this project before my upcoming trip to Moab in a couple weeks but I plan to shortly afterwards and will update the tread at that time.

Have a nice trip to Moab. Wish I was back there this time of year.

FYI. There’s a quaint little hotel in Green River right off i70 called the Sleepy Hollow Motel I stayed in last time I was there last year. Old Motel, but clean, quiet, and cheap. Only about 45 minutes from Moab.

 

[EGSquatched]

Have a nice trip to Moab. Wish I was back there this time of year.

FYI. There’s a quaint little hotel in Green River right off i70 called the Sleepy Hollow Motel I stayed in last time I was there last year. Old Motel, but clean, quiet, and cheap. Only about 45 minutes from Moab.

Moab is amazing. Been going annually for nearly a decade, spent more time in Ouray area last year but would love to move out there one day.

Appreciate the motel suggestion, we usually camp remotely but grab a hotel a couple times per trip and always look for local places instead of chains and have had some really neat experience.

 

[SeptuagenarianSasquatch]

Also, for cheap:
https://lazylizardhostel.com/
It's a traditional hostel: small, eccentricly furnished rooms, shared kitchen and common areas. Some private baths, others--not.
Cheap!

 

[DriveAllNight]

I'm not an engineer, never played one on TV, but I highly suspect, if your supports are drilled through the roof, you won't even hit a rating of 100 pounds for the carrying load. The OEM and others, clamp to the top of the sides and mount to the front (not the roof) which is why I suspect it has the strength it does.

Drilling holes in the flat part of the roof, will provide you the least amount of strength and probably a whole lot of sag, not to mention without reinforcement a lot of play.

I could be completely wrong, but I don't think so, but that's just my two cents.

 

[Bugkillah]

With all the issues of cracking, I wouldn’t even think about taking a drill to it.

 

[Chrome_Pony]

The most useful part of having a second top would be making a jig for a fiberglass top that doesn't absolutely suck ass.

 

[Area51BS]

Suggestion for bolting through soft cored material. Over drill fastener size and sleeve the hole before putting fastener through it so you don’t compress the roof. Large flat material like fender washer or plate on back side.

 

[mpeugeot]

Understand the thought process, but there’s a few turn offs for me with that idea. Cost, weight, noise and functionality. I’m also impressed you managed to get 300lbs up there without noticeable squat! Trip pics look great too. I typically follow the keep it simple, stupid mentality and like being a little different. For that reason I plan to just through bolt some unistrut to my roof which will allow me to bolt a variety of different things up there. Thinking of adding a couple pieces of etrack spanning across the unistrut which will give me a platform to put firewood up there and tie down points to secure it. Then next to it mounting a large waterproof case, such as a roam case, etc for extra gear storage.

Again, open to ideas, suggestions or criticism.

I purchased a used TrailRax for my Bronco (2 door) for $500 and couldn't be happier with weight, noise, and functionality of the thing... Sure, I would have liked to pay less.

The trailrax is extremely light (I was able to install it alone). It's plenty rigid. There is no additional noise thanks to the design of the front and the rubber stripping that seals the whole thing against the front of the Bronco.

So be a bit different, but a used trailrax setup would be my first choice, not a drill.

 

[EGSquatched]

Appreciate all the input. I have no idea what to expect which is why I bought a second top so if it all goes to hell then I’m only out a few hundred bucks. Sleeving the bolt is a good idea, any links to something like that? I can picture it but…

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