More travel, more clearance, and no gearboxes?

[Brian_B]

I went back and forth on getting that harness. Stupid cost but ended up getting it. I am a little tariffed of electrical voodoo magic. I still don’t understand how the kitchen lights come on when I flip a switch.

It's really just a matter of making sure the red wire on the coil gets put to (+) and the black to (-). Nothing more to it.

But you can't see the wire colors on the plug externally. There is a small bolt that holds the connector on, you can pull that, pop the connector (it has a little rubber o-ring on it, nothing more) and peak and see which wire goes to which pin for confirmation. (don't pull too hard - just pull it back far enough to peek, the locker coil connects to the back side and if you yank you could pop it out, resulting in a "Giant Pain in the Ass" event - it has maybe 1-2" of slack in it)

Plug is WPT-829, costs like $30, and you would need a fuse (10A) and a switch. That and some wire with braided loom is the entirety of what is in the Ford Performance harness kit.

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[SierraBronco]

It's really just a matter of making sure the red wire on the coil gets put to (+) and the black to (-). Nothing more to it.

But you can't see the wire colors on the plug externally. There is a small bolt that holds the connector on, you can pull that, pop the connector (it has a little rubber o-ring on it, nothing more) and peak and see which wire goes to which pin for confirmation. (don't pull too hard - just pull it back far enough to peek, the locker coil connects to the back side and if you yank you could pop it out, resulting in a "Giant Pain in the Ass" event - it has maybe 1-2" of slack in it)

Plug is WPT-829, costs like $30, and you would need a fuse (10A) and a switch. That and some wire with braided loom is the entirety of what is in the Ford Performance harness kit.

Seems simple enough. He tested the lockers while in the air and they worked. Then…pop! Fried solenoid.

 

[Brian_B]

Seems simple enough. He tested the lockers while in the air and they worked. Then…pop! Fried solenoid.

I had a stage where mine would do this and there was a plastic shim that goes between the coil and the carrier that I had missed - locker would work sometimes and randomly blew fuses. Took me a long time to figure out I had missed that little shim.

But if it magically works with the Ford switch - probably not that.

 

[SierraBronco]

I had a stage where mine would do this and there was a plastic shim that goes between the coil and the carrier that I had missed - locker would work sometimes and randomly blew fuses. Took me a long time to figure out I had missed that little shim.

But if it magically works with the Ford switch - probably not that.

He did just replace the coil and last I heard-it is indeed working

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

Weird I could swear I read in Eatons E-locker manual that the polarity does NOT matter...

 

[Brian_B]

Weird I could swear I read in Eatons E-locker manual that the polarity does NOT matter...

I wouldn't recommend trying it out. I did when I was playing with mine thinking maybe I had mine wired backwards (I didn't, it was the stupid shim all along), and it instantly shorted the coil - 0 ohms.

I even knew better - current direction determines which way the coil is gonna pull, and was pretty sure there wasn't a rectifier in the coil.

 

[Max1h]

@Max1h is working on this as well

Just doing upper traingulate. Not sure ill pull of double with out alot of cutting a reframing, once i get the body off ill have a better idea

Will more then likely end up something like this but obv a bigger truss haha still undecided if im going coils to the arms or coil to the tube... lots to figure out still

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

I wouldn't recommend trying it out. I did when I was playing with mine thinking maybe I had mine wired backwards (I didn't, it was the stupid shim all along), and it instantly shorted the coil - 0 ohms.

I even knew better - current direction determines which way the coil is gonna pull, and was pretty sure there wasn't a rectifier in the coil.

While I respect your opinion, its NOT accurate.!!!
Maybe the factory lockers are polarity sensitive, but NOT eatons E-locker or the Auburn select-a-loc. Did multiple searches and confirmed. The wiring dont matter.

 

[Brian_B]

While I respect your opinion, its NOT accurate.!!!
Maybe the factory lockers are polarity sensitive, but NOT eatons E-locker or the Auburn select-a-loc. Did multiple searches and confirmed. The wiring dont matter.

Well, my experience was certainly accurate - I was there, and that's what happened.
YMMV

Also, I'm not certain the e-locker Dana uses is Eaton - what we are both saying could be true at the same time.

 

[SierraBronco]

Well, my experience was certainly accurate - I was there, and that's what happened.
YMMV

Also, I'm not certain the e-locker Dana uses is Eaton - what we are both saying could be true at the same time.

My understanding is that the OEM locker is made by Dana themselves, whereas what comes in the aftermarket Dana axles is Eaton.

 

[Snacktime]

Factory locker is definitely polarity sensitive at higher voltages. I think at the lower voltage the computer uses the current flow doesn't matter.

 

[Brian_B]

Factory locker is definitely polarity sensitive at higher voltages. I think at the lower voltage the computer uses the current flow doesn't matter.

Does the computer PWM control the voltage to the coil (factory hero switch)?

If you use an upfitter it's just gonna get whatever is on the battery.

 

[Snacktime]

Factory runs 5-6v and lowers voltage after engagement. I suspect it's also current limited.

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