Adding a distribution block to positive side - Pics and Part links appreciated

[centja1]

Interested to see what you come up with. I was thinking of riveting a couple L brackets to the top of the quarter panel and attaching some aluminum sheet vertically. If you have some other ideas, please let me know!

I'm actually trying to put a victron battery charger in that spot and came up with a bracket similar what comes with the stinger amp install kit. I think they want you to put the fuse mount in that spot, but it's actually a fairly large space.

The brackets are arriving today from SendCutSend and I was planning on doing a post on the results.

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[mvilla]

I'm actually trying to put a victron battery charger in that spot and came up with a bracket similar what comes with the stinger amp install kit. I think they want you to put the fuse mount in that spot, but it's actually a fairly large space.

The brackets are arriving today from SendCutSend and I was planning on doing a post on the results.

Nice! If that works out would you mind sharing the files?

 

[centja1]

Nice! If that works out would you mind sharing the files?

Wouldn't mind at all

 

[Shrek27]

I'm actually trying to put a victron battery charger in that spot and came up with a bracket similar what comes with the stinger amp install kit. I think they want you to put the fuse mount in that spot, but it's actually a fairly large space.

The brackets are arriving today from SendCutSend and I was planning on doing a post on the results.

Oh man, there was a time when I was pretty good with Fusion 360 and coulda went this route. Maybe I'll play with it and see if anything comes back to me haha

This looks like the majority of it fits under the fender lip and protrudes out some but keeps the fuse box lid clear? Is there another attachment point under there?

 

[Shrek27]

Interested to see what you come up with. I was thinking of riveting a couple L brackets to the top of the quarter panel and attaching some aluminum sheet vertically. If you have some other ideas, please let me know!

I'll end up somewhere between what you're doing and @centja1 bracket. I am also pretty handy with aluminum bar/angle and a box of rivets and have been thinking about a "good nuff" type bracket built that way.

 

[centja1]

This looks like the majority of it fits under the fender lip and protrudes out some but keeps the fuse box lid clear? Is there another attachment point under there?

That's exactly correct. It's not fastened anywhere except the lower right of drawing slides over the battery tray bolt. The tab on the lower left slots into the little pocket between the fuse box and the engine bay wall.

The tab on the bracket gets wider at the top, so between getting wedged in the pocket and potentially adding a shim, I "think" it will be secure.

Time will tell

 

[B22-2023]

I just looked at the SDHQ description on their website.

If someone is thinking about buying their kit I suggest holding off until I have time to post my thoughts. I have several issues with what they're selling.

What you said in your (later) post: after several iterations of me and various shops adding components on many builds, if my rig isn’t burned down by then I always make time and budget available for a quality auto-electrical shop to clean it all up. NOT a stereo shop. Worth every dime and I get back the harnesses, jumpers, lugs, nuts and bolts previously stringing everything together as if to say: here was a fire waiting to happen.

 

[Shrek27]

Reached out to Borne/Mishimoto. So it seems the 100A rating is due to the terminal they used on the fuse box, while the bus bar is rated to 300A per the ones I scoped on Amazon. Would an 80A block fuse between the cable and fuse box terminal protect that terminal then?

Pretty sure there are threads on whether the stock alternator can handle these additional loads.

Here is their reply:
“The auxiliary terminal our BNLT-BR-21-BUS Bus Bar Kit connects to on the 2021+ Bronco is rated for up to 100A.

With our bus bar kit being rated for up to 300A, we recommend connecting the kit directly to battery power for any loads over 90A. We also recommend replacing the alternator with a higher amperage unit to accommodate the additional load if not already equipped.”

 

[CalvinT]

Reached out to Borne/Mishimoto. So it seems the 100A rating is due to the terminal they used on the fuse box, while the bus bar is rated to 300A per the ones I scoped on Amazon. Would an 80A block fuse between the cable and fuse box terminal protect that terminal then?

Pretty sure there are threads on whether the stock alternator can handle these additional loads.

Here is their reply:
“The auxiliary terminal our BNLT-BR-21-BUS Bus Bar Kit connects to on the 2021+ Bronco is rated for up to 100A.

With our bus bar kit being rated for up to 300A, we recommend connecting the kit directly to battery power for any loads over 90A. We also recommend replacing the alternator with a higher amperage unit to accommodate the additional load if not already equipped.”

I can't speak to the alternator question. But I wouldn't believe Mishimoto about the bus bar kit. The terminals on the bus bar you linked to BNLT-BR-21 BUS Bar Kit won't handle 100 amps. Neither will the cable they include. Their specifications say the terminals are M4x0.7. We'll assume they're plated copper. Each terminal, including the one connected to the battery is good for 15-20 amps. Maybe their specifications are incorrect?

Ask them what size cable they're including in the kit. It looks like 10 gauge or smaller. Also they don't specify the insulation so you have to assume it's rated for 80C. It's in an engine compartment so you have to derate for heat. If they're using 10 gauge wire the maximum continuous current would be around 25 amps. But you should still fuse for the terminal size.

 

[Shrek27]

I can't speak to the alternator question. But I wouldn't believe Mishimoto about the bus bar kit. The terminals on the bus bar you linked to BNLT-BR-21 BUS Bar Kit won't handle 100 amps. Neither will the cable they include. Their specifications say the terminals are M4x0.7. We'll assume they're plated copper. Each terminal, including the one connected to the battery is good for 15-20 amps. Maybe their specifications are incorrect?

Ask them what size cable they're including in the kit. It looks like 10 gauge or smaller. Also they don't specify the insulation so you have to assume it's rated for 80C. It's in an engine compartment so you have to derate for heat. If they're using 10 gauge wire the maximum continuous current would be around 25 amps. But you should still fuse for the terminal size.

I don't see myself buying the Borne kit, but was curious about the use of that fuse box terminal so reached out to them for their insight on it.

I'd agree with you that this kit has some shortcomings and may be misrepresented on their site as well as the individual components on Amazon. I'm now set on only adding something like this down the road for low amp devices, but overbuilding it with high quality and some sort of MIDI fused all-in-one style bus.

 

[Gluestick]

I REALLY like the placement of the Borne Kit.

And I learned a lot in this thread. Mostly that YALL didn’t eat enough paste as kids.

NERD ALERT

 

[CalvinT]

There are two Borne kits.

The one sold on
https://www.borne.com/bus-bar-kit-ford-bronco-and-bronco-raptor-direct-fit-2021.html
has M4 studs which are good for 10A if they're made of copper. The connection from the battery connects on one of the studs. You could connect three 10A circuits to it, but can only use one at a time if you expect to draw 10A on any of them.

The one sold on Amazon has M10 studs, each good for 150A each. Again one stud goes to the battery which means you can't power more than one circuit at a time. The 300A rating is misleading. You can only safely draw 150A from the battery because you can only use one circuit at a time.

Similar designs with the same limitation. Only one circuit can be used at a time if you use them at maximum rating.

 

[Squirrel13]

I made a mount for this.

 

[CalvinT]

I made a mount for this.

Very nice! Very good work too. What crimp tool did you use? And finally, Panduit makes good connectors.

 

[B22-2023]

I made a mount for this.

I’m liking that Eaton box. Found it here.

Also I was in a custom car stereo shop yesterday talking amps, and I agree with what someone else said above - that following whatever the bass heads use is another reliable way to go.

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