Adding a distribution block to positive side - Pics and Part links appreciated

[Shrek27]

Well, a while back during my winch install I overtightened one of the free posts on the positive OEM block and had to hack it off, so down to none (2 factory filled and relayed winch on third).

I had planned to just double up as needed on the used posts, but as my needs grow quickly, I'd like to add a high amp distribution block to hook the winch (on relay) , Midland GMRS, Bluetti Charger 1, and Redarc Tow-Pro up to. Each device will be individually fused between device and the block.

I've read through the @SierraBronco threads from their fire mishap already and got some good ideas but looking for a few more before I proceed. Any pics on where to mount the distribution block and parts links would be appreciated. Thanks!

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[SierraBronco]

I used this bracket to hold a distribution block. Works nicely but I’d recommend extending your Aux wires before mounting it.

https://americanadventurelab.com/product/battery-cutoff-and-maxi-fuse-bracket-kit/

And this distribution block. I checked the voltage loss but can’t remember what it was so it must’ve been negligible. Just used high quality double sided tape and adhesion promotor on it.

https://a.co/d/05HFHTP

 

[SierraBronco]

I wonder how those aluminum blocks do with high amperage use. I tested a cheap aluminum distribution block with set screws on a compressor and that sucker was losing a full volt through it. Fuse temps reached something like 172F after airing up 4 40” tires. Swapped over to brass with terminal connections and lost .1V and fuses were 70F after airing up 5 40” tires.

 

[Shrek27]

I used this bracket to hold a distribution block. Works nicely but I’d recommend extending your Aux wires before mounting it.

https://americanadventurelab.com/product/battery-cutoff-and-maxi-fuse-bracket-kit/

And this distribution block. I checked the voltage loss but can’t remember what it was so it must’ve been negligible. Just used high quality double sided tape and adhesion promotor on it.

https://a.co/d/05HFHTP

Thanks for the links! I'm going to put the winch relay before the block since I'll need the other devices constantly powered. I was hoping to mount the POS+ block closer to the front but that AAL looks good too. I like the NEG- fuse block also.

Not sure if I'll fuse the connection between the block and battery or not.

I like that but it re-uses the OEM distribution block, which is the reason I need more posts. Unless there are more connections under that? Hard to tell from the pics

I wonder how those aluminum blocks do with high amperage use. I tested a cheap aluminum distribution block with set screws on a compressor and that sucker was losing a full volt through it. Fuse temps reached something like 172F after airing up 4 40” tires. Swapped over to brass with terminal connections and lost .1V and fuses were 70F after airing up 5 40” tires.

Good point and not something I would have thought about. Your due diligence is incredible, but I know what motivates you.

 

[SierraBronco]

Thanks for the links! I'm going to put the winch relay before the block since I'll need the other devices constantly powered. I was hoping to mount the POS+ block closer to the front but that AAL looks good too. I like the NEG- fuse block also.

Not sure if I'll fuse the connection between the block and battery or not.


I like that but it re-uses the OEM distribution block, which is the reason I need more posts. Unless there are more connections under that? Hard to tell from the pics


Good point and not something I would have thought about. Your due diligence is incredible, but I know what motivates you.

Trolling. It’s all about the trolling.

 

[Brian_B]

I used some Blue Sea Systems for a home DC project and they have been carrying 200A no problems for a few years now. Haven’t had a chance to use them in my Bronco yet. They have just about any kind of adapter or distribution block you could care for.

 

[Gluestick]

I am no expert but doesn’t that exposed positive post up high like that not make you worry about shorts? Just up there waiting for you to touch it when doing maintenance on anything else under the hood. Talking to you like the green goblin mask the whole time

 

[SierraBronco]

I am no expert but doesn’t that exposed positive post up high like that not make you worry about shorts? Just up there waiting for you to touch it when doing maintenance on anything else under the hood. Talking to you like the green goblin mask the whole time

Wait-it doesn’t come with a cover? I didn’t go through all the pictures or details and just assumed it did. “Shirley they’ll have a cover included. Would be silly to not have a cover”

 

[Shrek27]

@Brian_B I like Bluesea stuff too, used a bunch on an old boat.

I watched the install vid for the SDHQ terminals and it doesnt look like it has a cover but that could be solved with individual covers or liquid tape. I dismissed it because it re-uses the factory block. Guess they didn’t want to mess with the fused part.

 

[Shrek27]

Looks like the OEM breaker/block isn't too bad to replace either. May do that first to make the Bronco whole again.

https://parts.levittownfordparts.co...khqL6WmcS7UEamlUeR20m8t-RqImyCPuM2lmJlMdolX_c

Helpful thread to replace it and source the part
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/battery-terminal-info.24134/page-3

 

[B22-2023]

I wonder how those aluminum blocks do with high amperage use. I tested a cheap aluminum distribution block with set screws on a compressor and that sucker was losing a full volt through it. Fuse temps reached something like 172F after airing up 4 40” tires. Swapped over to brass with terminal connections and lost .1V and fuses were 70F after airing up 5 40” tires.

Here is what they say:


Our battery terminals are precision-machined from high-grade 6061 aluminum, which is a commonly used material in electrical busbars due to its balance of conductivity, strength, and corrosion resistance. For context, the electrical conductivity of 6061 aluminum is approximately 44% of that of pure copper. In comparison:

• Brass: ~28% conductivity
• Lead (commonly found in standard battery posts): ~7% conductivity

This means that 6061 aluminum offers significantly better conductivity than brass or lead-based components, making it well-suited for high-current applications when properly implemented.
It's important to note that voltage drop and heat buildup in electrical connections are often caused by poor contact surfaces, undersized conductors, or inadequate terminations—not just the material itself. Our terminals are designed to be used with properly sized and securely fastened crimped or soldered lugs, ensuring reliable contact and minimizing resistance. When installed correctly, users should not experience meaningful voltage drop or excessive heat during high-amperage use.


Respectfully,
The SDHQ Support Team

 

[Brian_B]

• Brass: ~28% conductivity
• Lead (commonly found in standard battery posts): ~7% conductivity

Ok, well the lead is because they just extend up the post from the last plate, and the plates are all lead, so... ok.

Brass. Copper being the standard, but its not always suitable due to weight/strength. Not sure I've seen brass electrical fittings. A good deal of zinc or chromed steel.

That said, aluminum is commonly used when weight is an issue - like overhead electrical cable. They used to use it a lot back in the 70's when copper was really expensive for all sorts of electrical, but it does have issues with galvanic corrosion (need to make sure you use a dielectric grease), and it tends to thermally expand/contract more than copper or steel so you really have to watch torque specs and re-check them more frequently.

 

[SierraBronco]

Here is what they say:


Our battery terminals are precision-machined from high-grade 6061 aluminum, which is a commonly used material in electrical busbars due to its balance of conductivity, strength, and corrosion resistance. For context, the electrical conductivity of 6061 aluminum is approximately 44% of that of pure copper. In comparison:

• Brass: ~28% conductivity
• Lead (commonly found in standard battery posts): ~7% conductivity

This means that 6061 aluminum offers significantly better conductivity than brass or lead-based components, making it well-suited for high-current applications when properly implemented.
It's important to note that voltage drop and heat buildup in electrical connections are often caused by poor contact surfaces, undersized conductors, or inadequate terminations—not just the material itself. Our terminals are designed to be used with properly sized and securely fastened crimped or soldered lugs, ensuring reliable contact and minimizing resistance. When installed correctly, users should not experience meaningful voltage drop or excessive heat during high-amperage use.


Respectfully,
The SDHQ Support Team

Hmmmmmm. Lot of words there. Curious what @Doc TOC and @CalvinT think about this.

 

[CalvinT]

I just looked at the SDHQ description on their website.

If someone is thinking about buying their kit I suggest holding off until I have time to post my thoughts. I have several issues with what they're selling.

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