Not via Sync4 or similar access. See Forscan spreadsheet, and related threads/discussions if you are inclined to learn how to change it.Can you reset it for lower pressures?
Mind sharing details on your setup? That’s exactly what I’m wanting to put together myself. Thanks!Here's a photo of my air compressor and 4-tire inflation/deflation system (total cost: around $300). It takes 2-2.5 minutes to air down and 10-11 to air back up.
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Here are my notes from about two years ago. Some parts might not be available anymore from the links. Maybe you could go through all of it and update any links that are broken, or search for better deals.Mind sharing details on your setup? That’s exactly what I’m wanting to put together myself. Thanks!
How do you reset the sensors?This weekend, I set the sensors for 7psi and aired down to 10. Not a peep from the computer.
ForScan.How do you reset the sensors?
\I have a remote on/off switch on my ThorsLightning 2-cylinder (NAPA-sourced) compressor. I hook up my4-way hose setup, turn on the engine, and turn on the compressor. Then I just sit in the front seat and monitor the PSI on the dash. When I get up to my preferred pavement PSI, I turn off the compressor (remote), disconnect and stow my gear, all done--easy peasy.
My point: I find the dash psi readings (from the TPMS, of course) reliably accurate. I know: I always check with a gauge when I put my valve caps on. Just to be sure!
Are you running aftermarket valves? If not, any compressor over 2-2.5 CFM will bottleneck at the valve stem and create back pressure that burns out your compressor over time. That’s why compressors like MORRflate’s TenSix state that they are only for use with a four tire hose kit, as splitting the air avoids the bottleneck.\
My dash display is too delayed. I run the NAPA 300L twin compressor and it will blow a hose if I were to wait for the TPMS to display correctly. Love the 4 hose setups, but just haven't done that yet. The inline gauge on the NAPA is accurate enough and I only air up one at a time. Always room for improvement tho!
If you’re not looking to do this yourself, I imagine the cost of a MORRflate hose kit isn’t that much more than this list plus tax. The owner has done some AMA and podcasts that were super informative and assured me he knows what he’s doing before I purchased. He also speaks to things like why you don’t need a quarter inch hose, as the 3/8 doesn’t restrict you at all unless you are pushing like 20 CFM into aftermarket valves.Here are my notes from about two years ago. Some parts might not be available anymore from the links. Maybe you could go through all of it and update any links that are broken, or search for better deals.
This is the starting point:
1: Pressure Gauge [$14.97] https://amzn.to/32yhLQQ
Get a 0-60psi version - $13.97
1: Air manifold, 3-way splitter [$18.97] https://amzn.to/3H975qR
Comes with three couplers, one can be used for the SmittyBilt hose
1: 50' of 1/4" hose [$20.88] https://amzn.to/3mvPu4J
Comes with two ends to screw into the air mainfold - $21.60 - Choose 3/8"
2: Brass Tee fittings with clamps [$9.99] https://amzn.to/3JkQBOC
Split for front tire, has clamps, $17.98
2: GODESON Lock On Air Chuck, 1/4 NPFT Closed Flow Brass Tire Chuck, pack of 2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BS28JHGJ
1: Brass ball valve [$7.99] https://amzn.to/3ekFEy2
Connects to pressure gauge
1: 1/4" x 1/4" NPT female to female - two for $4.99
https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Coupler-Brass-Female-Fitting/dp/B082V8FJQJ
2: 2PCS Brass Hose Barb Fitting, 1/4" Barb x 1/4" NPT Male
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YRZ1MPY
1: US Solid Brass Hose fitting, 3/8" Barb x 1/4" NPT Male
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VJK9BSJ
1: 1/4" Female NPT Plug http://amzn.to/2seaI99 [$9.48]
Connects to ball valve - $5.11
There is also a place in Utah that has a 4-way system that is cheaper than you can build one for. Can't remember their name, though.If you’re not looking to do this yourself, I imagine the cost of a MORRflate hose kit isn’t that much more than this list plus tax.