To upgrade B&O system......or not??

[JdH23OBX]

Figured I’d chime in here since I just completed the install of the Mobridge DSP/ amp and a Stinger tailgate sub. I highly recommend both - especially the Mobridge. To answer some of your questions - it’s a pretty simple and straightforward installation- and I’ve never done anything like it before. You can find detailed instructions on the Mobridge website (look for the Bronco kit) and Fraiser at Mobridge is super helpful. The kit comes with everything needed, I mounted the Mobridge amp to where the OEM amp is as per the instructions. The amp powers all the speakers and the DSP allows you to tune each speaker. Honestly, the tuning is the most difficult part, but Fraiser and others have tuning files based on your speaker configuration that you can start with. Only thing I had difficulty with was wiring the sub…best way I found was to splice from the Mobridge wiring harness with 14 gauge speaker wire to the sub.

I will find the Bronco kit instructions as you mentioned but did the install require you to run wiring towards the front of the vehicle? or were you able to use the wiring where the factory sub is? I've been scrolling through the forum and googling this and mostly what I see is removing most of the trim, etc to run wires. Did you by chance document your install with any pictures?

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[hilmerdm]

I will find the Bronco kit instructions as you mentioned but did the install require you to run wiring towards the front of the vehicle? or were you able to use the wiring where the factory sub is? I've been scrolling through the forum and googling this and mostly what I see is removing most of the trim, etc to run wires. Did you by chance document your install with any pictures?

I didn’t take many pictures, but the instructions on the website has a picture for each step. The kit comes with all the needed wiring - you do have to take off most of the interior trim to run, but you don’t have to mess with any of the OEM speaker wires. You have to pull the harness connection off the head unit and plug it in to the harness that comes with the kit and run it back to the OEM amp/ sub enclosure. Also have to run the power line from the battery through the firewall gasket back to the Mobridge amp (which mounts to where the OEM amp is. Sounds WAY more difficult than it actually is - just takes time to pull trim. Again, I never attempted to do anything like this before and was successful - and actually had fun doing it! Plus the result is amazing- the Mobridge is extremely versatile and powerful - on one of the settings I have I feel like I need hearing protection at anything above 10 on the volume knob. Definitely won’t have a problem with the top and doors off!

 

[JdH23OBX]

I didn’t take many pictures, but the instructions on the website has a picture for each step. The kit comes with all the needed wiring - you do have to take off most of the interior trim to run, but you don’t have to mess with any of the OEM speaker wires. You have to pull the harness connection off the head unit and plug it in to the harness that comes with the kit and run it back to the OEM amp/ sub enclosure. Also have to run the power line from the battery through the firewall gasket back to the Mobridge amp (which mounts to where the OEM amp is. Sounds WAY more difficult than it actually is - just takes time to pull trim. Again, I never attempted to do anything like this before and was successful - and actually had fun doing it! Plus the result is amazing- the Mobridge is extremely versatile and powerful - on one of the settings I have I feel like I need hearing protection at anything above 10 on the volume knob. Definitely won’t have a problem with the top and doors off!

Sounds good and thank you.....you may have given me the confidence to tackle this Do you have the B&O system in your Bronco?

Out of curiosity did you replace all of your original speakers? Or only some of them? If you did replace them, what did you replace them with?

 

[hilmerdm]

Sounds good and thank you.....you may have given me the confidence to tackle this Do you have the B&O system in your Bronco?

Out of curiosity did you replace all of your original speakers? Or only some of them? If you did replace them, what did you replace them with?

Yep, B&O - the Mobridge kit is only for the B&O. And yes, I did replace all the speakers as well - Hertz DCX 100.3 in the front 3, Hertz MillePro for the kick panel speakers and SSV Works for the rear. In hindsight I should have gotten the Hertz CX for the front - they would better handle the power the Mobridge pumps out (might switch out eventually). The rears are of least concern- they are just for “fill” - so while I would still upgrade you don’t need the 6.5” speakers. The Hertz DCX sound great, but they are better suited for the OEM set up because of their high sensitivity.

 

[hilmerdm]

Sounds good and thank you.....you may have given me the confidence to tackle this Do you have the B&O system in your Bronco?

Out of curiosity did you replace all of your original speakers? Or only some of them? If you did replace them, what did you replace them with?

Just an additional tip…I’d highly recommend going straight to the Mobridge rather than do a piece meal approach with other harnesses, just a subwoofer upgrade, etc. You’ll still have to pull some trim in any situation and best to do it just once and be done. I’m no audiophile, but was never happy until I went with the Mobridge and Stinger sub…mostly since I still didn’t have enough volume without distortion when top and doors are off and the awful sub rattles. It’s well worth the time and effort - plus you’ll wind up spending more money and redoing things. It honestly is pretty straightforward to do.

 

[JdH23OBX]

Yep, B&O - the Mobridge kit is only for the B&O. And yes, I did replace all the speakers as well - Hertz DCX 100.3 in the front 3, Hertz MillePro for the kick panel speakers and SSV Works for the rear. In hindsight I should have gotten the Hertz CX for the front - they would better handle the power the Mobridge pumps out (might switch out eventually). The rears are of least concern- they are just for “fill” - so while I would still upgrade you don’t need the 6.5” speakers. The Hertz DCX sound great, but they are better suited for the OEM set up because of their high sensitivity.

I just looked at Crutchfield and it says that neither the DCX 100.3 nor the CX fit in my 2023 Bronco. I saw other members say the same thing but I assume that you have to make minor modifications in the speaker cover for the protruding tweeter? Did you make any modifications to the speaker to make it fit?

Did you get these SSV speaker pods?

 

[JdH23OBX]

Just an additional tip…I’d highly recommend going straight to the Mobridge rather than do a piece meal approach with other harnesses, just a subwoofer upgrade, etc. You’ll still have to pull some trim in any situation and best to do it just once and be done. I’m no audiophile, but was never happy until I went with the Mobridge and Stinger sub…mostly since I still didn’t have enough volume without distortion when top and doors are off and the awful sub rattles. It’s well worth the time and effort - plus you’ll wind up spending more money and redoing things. It honestly is pretty straightforward to do.

what do you mean "going straight to the Mobridge rather than a piece meal approach"? Direct wire from sub to mobridge? Or do you mean something totally different? As i mentioned in an earlier post I'm new to the whole car audio thing so I want to try and fully understand exactly what is being said.

 

[AlterEgo]

I have the B&O system in my 24 BL and I found that moving the Fade back to align with rear headrests along with changing the EQ on Spotify to R&B gave me a nice boost in sound quality while the system is still stock. I tend to listen to a lot of country, rock, and rap.

But before spending a bunch of money, consider playing around with those types of settings and not just the Bronco EQ. I really think moving the Fade back a few notches in my 4door helped a lot. Pop & Rock on the Spotify EQ also sounded much better than stock. Something to consider.

 

[JdH23OBX]

I have the B&O system in my 24 BL and I found that moving the Fade back to align with rear headrests along with changing the EQ on Spotify to R&B gave me a nice boost in sound quality while the system is still stock. I tend to listen to a lot of country, rock, and rap.

But before spending a bunch of money, consider playing around with those types of settings and not just the Bronco EQ. I really think moving the Fade back a few notches in my 4door helped a lot. Pop & Rock on the Spotify EQ also sounded much better than stock. Something to consider.

I did play around with the settings some and they did get somewhat better but it was while I was sitting with the engine running. While driving it was a different story.....not a clear but I think the wind noise has a lot to do with that and don't think there is any way around that. Where is the spotify EQ located?

 

[AlterEgo]

I did play around with the settings some and they did get somewhat better but it was while I was sitting with the engine running. While driving it was a different story.....not a clear but I think the wind noise has a lot to do with that and don't think there is any way around that. Where is the spotify EQ located?

On your phone open Spotify then on top left click on what I assume is the first letter of your first name. Mine is an "M" > Settings and Privacy > Playback > scroll to the bottom and look for Equalizer.

This should help a lot! Play around with the one they have built in or use the sliders up top. This should at least satisfy your needs until you build out the system you want.

 

[JdH23OBX]

On your phone open Spotify then on top left click on what I assume is the first letter of your first name. Mine is an "M" > Settings and Privacy > Playback > scroll to the bottom and look for Equalizer.

This should help a lot! Play around with the one they have built in or use the sliders up top. This should at least satisfy your needs until you build out the system you want.

thanks for the tip. I'll play around some and see how I make out.

 

[hilmerdm]

what do you mean "going straight to the Mobridge rather than a piece meal approach"? Direct wire from sub to mobridge? Or do you mean something totally different? As i mentioned in an earlier post I'm new to the whole car audio thing so I want to try and fully understand exactly what is being said.

Just meant I’d recommend buying and installing the Mobridge kit at the outset rather than just a speaker and/or sub upgrade or the Kicker amps. The Mobridge will power all the new speakers AND the sub with more than enough power and ultimate tuning ability. It is costly (I was super lucky and bought a used one off this forum, so saved $ there) but worth every penny and a perfect all-in-one solution.

 

[Hemisfear]

I am still contemplating changing the sub and adding an amp when changing the speakers. I just looked at crutchfield and the JL sub that you used is no longer available. Any suggestions on a replacement?

Just a beginner question....is that the factory amp between the mobridge and the sub? I am very unsure of myself when it comes to the wiring and hookups of stuff like this when it isn't just plug and play. I am up for a challenge and may really go through with it. Any suggestions on where to get in depth information and explanations on the actual wiring of the amp or amps? Does the factory amp give enough power for the other speakers and the mobridge is just for the sub? Or does the mobridge power everything? I know there is a ton of valuable information on the forum but I haven't come across anything that specifically gives step by step instructions on the wiring and connections of amps with the speakers and sub.

The JL8W1-V3-4 is the modern version.
The stock amp is not hooked up, it's only still installed because the MoBridge DSP/Amp will not fit in the factory location on 2 doors and didn't want to take up shelf space or lose it! lol
All my questions were answered by Fraser @ MoBridge, good guy and very knowledgable.
This install was essentially plug and play, I just needed to sum the 4 wires to the sub to make it work with the single coil sub, relocate one parking module, plug the sub enclosure, run a lot of wires and remove a bunch of trim.

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[OxfordSas]

I replaced my corner dash speakers with 4" alpine type S's, no bass blockers, and it improved the sound by 40%.
I just replaced the center speaker with the PRV one mentioned above (also with no bass blockers) and it improved the sound by 50%. Phone calls are drastically improved too.

I have the B&O system

 

[JdH23OBX]

I replaced my corner dash speakers with 4" alpine type S's, no bass blockers, and it improved the sound by 40%.
I just replaced the center speaker with the PRV one mentioned above (also with no bass blockers) and it improved the sound by 50%. Phone calls are drastically improved too.

I have the B&O system

Did you replace your pods, kick speakers or sub? Or only the 3 dash speakers?

If you changed any of the other speakers, what brand and model number did you go with?

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