I also edited my original post to put the pictures in the correct order and better explain what each picture was showing. You may want to go back and look at that as well.
Does the LOD bracket attach to the d-ring connector? And is this all you need to add to
The LOD brackets bolt in place behind the frame bumper mounts. The D-Ring adapters then bolt through the bumper into the frame bumper mounts and through the LOD brackets. The brackets and the D-Ring adapters basically sandwich the bumper and the frame bumper mounts together.
I'm assuming you have the modular bumper. You might want to check to make sure that the bumper is tight against the frame end/mounting plates. I installed the LOD strengtheners on my '22 Black Diamond with the Modular Bumper and the 'loops' on the LOD brackets kept the bottom of the bumper from rotating back. I realized that since I have the factory 'Bull Bar' and it was hitting the grill when I tried to reinstall the bumper. I had to bend the 'loops' on the LOD brackets outward 60 degrees to prevent interference.I spent the day setting up my Bronco to tow behind my RV. I want to say thank you to others here on the forum for doing this and discussing what you did. It greatly helped me out by reading all that information before doing the work.
I started by removing the front bumper and installing LOD Off Road's Black Ops front bumper frame tie in brackets. I purchased these to give a little more support to the factory D-Ring attachment points on the bumper. I am using a Roadmaster 677 Nighthawk tow bar with the Roadmaster 035-1 Tow Bar Adapters. These mate up to the factory D-Ring attachment points perfectly.
Here is the front bumper removed.
Here is the passenger side frame mount for the front bumper.
Here are the holes I drilled for the LOD Off Road frame tie in brackets. The hole on the left was a factory hole that was enlarged to 1/2" and the hole on the right was drilled to match the bracket.
Here is the outer LOD Off Road frame tie in bracket installed on the passenger side.
Here is the inner bracket on the passenger side.
Here you can see the mounting bolts for the brackets from the front.
Here is the outer bracket on the driver side.
Here is the inner bracket on the driver side.
Here are the mounting bolts for the driver side.
I then installed the Curt 58992 Custom Towed-Vehicle Wiring Harness for Dinghy Towing a Ford Bronco. This easily teed into the factory taillight connectors.
Here are the driver side harness connections.
Here are the passenger side harness connections.
Here you can see the remaining wire from the harness waiting to be run to the front of the vehicle.
Here is the newly run wiring terminated behind the front bumper and wired into a 6 pin RV connector mounted in the driver side of the bumper. I ran the wiring up to the front of the vehicle following the frame and the factory wiring harness. I went into the engine compartment at the back of the driver side wheel well and followed the inner fender back down to the front bumper. I protected the new wiring with split loom and wrapped it in black electrical tape for some added safety. In addition to the four wires coming from the tail light integration kit, this also has a charge wire integrated into it.
I purchased RVI's Towed Battery Charger Plus to keep the Bronco battery charged while it is being towed and RVI's 12-Volt Battery Direct Kit to power an RVIBrake3 while under way. I installed the charger on top of the battery hold down bracket in the engine compartment with a zip tie. I covered all the wiring in split loom and ran it alongside factory wiring in the engine bay, down to the front bumper area to tie into the 6 pin connector with the other wiring.
Here is the 12 volt socket I wired direct from the battery to power the brake module. It is zip tied up, out of the way above the dead pedal in the driver footwell.
I installed the breakaway switch under the driver side front D-Ring adapter and ran its wiring into the driver side footwell along side the 12 volt socket. This just plugs into the braking system. Here is a picture of the breakaway switch and the 6 pin connector installed on the front bumper. I had to make a small notch in the lower plastic for the breakaway switch and obviously drill a hole in the same plastic for the 6 pin connector. There was already a round hole in the metal bumper behind the plastic cover, but I had to drill it out a bit for the 6 pin connector to fit.
I am using an RVIbrake3 Portable Flat Towing Braking System for the dinghy brakes. Here it is connected to the brake pedal. You can see it is plugged into the 12 volt socket for power and the breakaway wiring is plugged into the side of the device between the handle mounts. The breakaway wiring is a simple 3.5 mm (I think) plug.
I edited this post to better integrate the pictures with descriptions. For some reason, I can't get rid of this last duplicate picture.
I’m pretty sure my bumper is flush with the bumper mounts as I am pretty meticulous about things like that, but I will double check. The LOD brackets did not interfere with the bumper placement at all on my set up. I saw some others posted that they had to notch the skid plate as well. My set up didn’t have any of these issues. When I put the skid plate back on, it just barely touched the bottom of the bracket loops so I didn’t have to do any modifications.
Strange. A friend of mine recently purchased a 2024 Badlands and had the same issues I did. I made significant changes to the LOD brackets to allow me to re-use the OEM nutplates (3 nuts) for mounting the tow hooks/bumper. On mine, there is no real room between the skid plate and the back of the bumper.
The LOD brackets came with extra nuts and washers to use on the OEM D-Ring Adapter bolts. You do not use the OEM nut plates those bolts used to attach to with the LOD brackets.
You said you used the roadmaster 35-1 adapter which is for 1 inch d-ring. My 2024 wildtrak d-ring mearsures 1.12 inches. Did you have to modify the parts or d-rings? I also thought of using a M12 lifting eyebolt in the end crash bars instead of a quick link as it looks difficult to remove it when not towingHere are pictures of the tow bar connected. The first picture is what the bumper looks like with the new 6 pin connector (to the right of driver side D-Ring adapter) and breakaway switch (under driver side D-Ring adapter) installed.
Here it is with the tow bar connected to the bumper D-Ring adapters (the front of the tow bar is just sitting on a bucket for the picture). You can see the trailer wiring plugged into the 6-pin adapter and the coiled cable below the tow bar on the driver side connected to the breakaway switch.
Here is a side view of the bumper connections from the driver side. You can see the safety cables connected below the bumper. These are connected to the lower loops of the LOD Off Road frame tie in brackets. I added quick links to the LOD brackets to get out between the skid plate and the bumper to make connecting the safety cables easier.
Here is a side view from the passenger side.
Here is a view behind the bumper on the passenger side. This shows the LOD Off Road frame tie in bracket lower loop with the quick link attached to extend between the skid plate and the bumper.
I did not have to modify the Roadmaster adapters, but I have heard of others who did.You said you used the roadmaster 35-1 adapter which is for 1 inch d-ring. My 2024 wildtrak d-ring mearsures 1.12 inches. Did you have to modify the parts or d-rings? I also thought of using a M12 lifting eyebolt in the end crash bars instead of a quick link as it looks difficult to remove it when not towing
The brake lights are disabled when you put the Bronco in Neutral Tow Mode.
You will have to explain, why do you want a relay: to light brake lights or to prevent? to operate remote brake system? Not understanding
