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nolimits

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Not to suggest I know shit about fuck, but looks good enough to me!
LOL, never thought I would research wire loom/sleeving in my life. But here we are.

I also stumbled onto this by MGI SpeedWare. They look to be a more direct competitor to Painless and have all sorts of doo hickeys for race car and other auto needs. Their woven sleeve looks really similar to the Painless ClassicWeave. Tighter weave seems like it would be more abrasion resistant but that’s just redneck engineering.

https://mgispeedware.com/product/woven-wire-loom/

Like Painless you can order their stuff online. Unless you need 1,250’ and then you can buy direct. I pray to the car gods I never have any wiring projects that need 1,250’ of sleeving.

https://a.co/d/4Df8RrR
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SierraBronco

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LOL, never thought I would research wire loom/sleeving in my life. But here we are.

I also stumbled onto this by MGI SpeedWare. They look to be a more direct competitor to Painless and have all sorts of doo hickeys for race car and other auto needs. Their woven sleeve looks really similar to the Painless ClassicWeave. Tighter weave seems like it would be more abrasion resistant but that’s just redneck engineering.

https://mgispeedware.com/product/woven-wire-loom/

Like Painless you can order their stuff online. Unless you need 1,250’ and then you can buy direct. I pray to the car gods I never have any wiring projects that need 1,250’ of sleeving.

https://a.co/d/4Df8RrR
Saying you have 6/0 wire doesn’t look nearly as cool as 000000 😂

I know the feeling on researching all this. Then you find something else you didn’t know and that turns into a whole thing and suddenly you have a $150 fuse the size of your hand sitting on the counter.

Order it up and let us know!

Ford Bronco Fire Extinguisher & Tested / Approved Electrical Parts Compilation Thread IMG_3768
 

nolimits

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Yes, the fuel tank has been replaced. The tank was $1700 plus labor $2500 total. Tow bill was $750!
Admittedly it’s been forever since I changed a gas tank but that seems absolutely ridiculous. Did you do any upgrades or just go back with a factory tank? If all stock, I would have been tempted to grab one from a salvage yard assuming price savings was worthwhile.
 

B Miller

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Admittedly it’s been forever since I changed a gas tank but that seems absolutely ridiculous. Did you do any upgrades or just go back with a factory tank? If all stock, I would have been tempted to grab one from a salvage yard assuming price savings was worthwhile.
Agreed, but the insurance floated the bill. It was a OEM factory tank.
 

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I was thinking about the extinguisher hitting someone's head. Airbags work well but won't protect from that.
Along these lines, it is really important that anything that has any weight to it at all be secured well.
We had a guy at NAXJA years back that had a removable winch that was "secured" in the back come up like a heat seeking missile and hit him in the back of the head when he rolled. He admitted he was lucky not to have died.
Don't think it's secure, make sure it's is. $.02 🤠
 

nolimits

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So I was looking closer at my wiring and trying to finalize all the details. When I ordered my BAMF bumper I also opted for the BAMF solenoid relocation kit which came with wiring leads.

I will be installing a Warn Evo 12s. The new BAMF leads will go from the winch motor and snake up under the hood to the relocation kit. From there I will use the supplied Warn power lead to go from solenoid to the 500a Stinger relay. And then from the Stinger to the battery (if I don’t go ahead and include the expensive Class T fuse). I will also use the supplied Warn ground cable to run from the winch to the negative battery terminal.

My questions….

1. The Warn power and ground leads are not marked. They measure roughly 3/8” wide including insulation. Quick research says these are 2AWG leads. Can someone please confirm?

2. The BAMF extended length leads are #4 ToughFlex. Are these sufficient? I’m not an electrician but would think you would want 2 AWG throughout the entire run.

https://www.kalaswire.com/wp-content/uploads/KALAS-IP-DP-Toughflex.pdf

3. Honestly all this wiring seems lighter than I think it should be. I’m not as cool as @SierraBronco with 000000 wiring but thought maybe a 1/0 or 2/0 would have been more in line. Obviously Warn is the wiser Yoda here and doubtful they would furnish wire sizes that cause issues but still seems off to me. What say all you?

Ford Bronco Fire Extinguisher & Tested / Approved Electrical Parts Compilation Thread IMG_1446
 
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So I was looking closer at my wiring and trying to finalize all the details. When I ordered my BAMF bumper I also opted for the BAMF solenoid relocation kit which came with wiring leads.

I will be installing a Warn Evo 12s. The new BAMF leads will go from the winch motor and snake up under the hood to the relocation kit. From there I will use the supplied Warn power lead to go from solenoid to the 500a Stinger relay. And then from the Stinger to the battery (if I don’t go ahead and include the expensive Class T fuse). I will also use the supplied Warn ground cable to run from the winch to the negative battery terminal.

My questions….

1. The Warn power and ground leads are not marked. They measure roughly 3/8” wide including insulation. Quick research says these are 2AWG leads. Can someone please confirm?

2. The BAMF extended length leads are #4 ToughFlex. Are these sufficient? I’m not an electrician but would think you would want 2 AWG throughout the entire run.

https://www.kalaswire.com/wp-content/uploads/KALAS-IP-DP-Toughflex.pdf

3. Honestly all this wiring seems lighter than I think it should be. I’m not as cool as @SierraBronco with 000000 wiring but thought maybe a 1/0 or 2/0 would have been more in line. Obviously Warn is the wiser Yoda here and doubtful they would furnish wire sizes that cause issues but still seems off to me. What say all you?

IMG_1446.jpeg
4G seems kinda small to me for powering a winch. It’s one of those things that could be argued ad nauseam for winches. One might suggest that most of the time you aren’t going to be pulling at the max draw for extended periods of time. And then someone else will come in and say “well back in October 27, 1985 we had to pull a VW Bus out of a photo developing booth at the Lone Pine Mall and we ran that winch nonstop!”

I’d run something thicker, personally. But you’re armed with knowledge now so in the event you need to winch for a long time, if you can reach the wiring you could get an idea of how warm they are. Stopping and assessing is easy to say now. How different will it be in a stressful situation where you’re rescuing yourself or someone else? 🤔
 

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userdude

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And then someone else will come in and say “well back in October 27, 1985 we had to pull a VW Bus out of a photo developing booth at the Lone Pine Mall and we ran that winch nonstop!”
Seems oddly specific...? 🤔
 
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Seems oddly specific...? 🤔
Some footage was captured on CCTV. Not quite sure what the white guys did or how the brown guys found them but I’d be interested in hearing the story.

Ford Bronco Fire Extinguisher & Tested / Approved Electrical Parts Compilation Thread IMG_3785
 

vrtical

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So I was looking closer at my wiring and trying to finalize all the details. When I ordered my BAMF bumper I also opted for the BAMF solenoid relocation kit which came with wiring leads.

I will be installing a Warn Evo 12s. The new BAMF leads will go from the winch motor and snake up under the hood to the relocation kit. From there I will use the supplied Warn power lead to go from solenoid to the 500a Stinger relay. And then from the Stinger to the battery (if I don’t go ahead and include the expensive Class T fuse). I will also use the supplied Warn ground cable to run from the winch to the negative battery terminal.

My questions….

1. The Warn power and ground leads are not marked. They measure roughly 3/8” wide including insulation. Quick research says these are 2AWG leads. Can someone please confirm?

2. The BAMF extended length leads are #4 ToughFlex. Are these sufficient? I’m not an electrician but would think you would want 2 AWG throughout the entire run.

https://www.kalaswire.com/wp-content/uploads/KALAS-IP-DP-Toughflex.pdf

3. Honestly all this wiring seems lighter than I think it should be. I’m not as cool as @SierraBronco with 000000 wiring but thought maybe a 1/0 or 2/0 would have been more in line. Obviously Warn is the wiser Yoda here and doubtful they would furnish wire sizes that cause issues but still seems off to me. What say all you?

IMG_1446.jpeg
Just to note on my install, kept the Warn wiring POS to the Stinger and the NEG over to the neg port where Ford puts it for the winches and outside the BMS circuit. I ran a new 2/0 battery cable pure copper from battery POS to the Stinger.
 
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SierraBronco

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Just to note on my install, kept the Warn wiring POS to the Stinger and the NEG over to the neg port where Ford puts it for the winches and outside the BMS circuit. I ran a new 2/0 battery cable pure copper from battery POS to the Stinger.
So all your wire powering the winch is big stuff?
 

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So all your wire powering the winch is big stuff?
Yes minus the relay trigger pos/neg which is super small voltage. At some point soon I am going to put an inline fuse block probably 1" off on the POS wire from the battery to the relay to add some more protection. That wire is 2ft long. I also need to address my dual POS feeds for the rear ARB as the fuses are 12" out from the battery.
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