Synthetic oil recommendations?

[Chritaka]

I used to use Castrol before full synthetics became widespread, and never had any issues. I used Royal Purple full synthetic in my 2006 Whipple supercharged Mustang, consistently and from the first oil change. It ran great up until I sold it a year ago. RP is expensive and the Bronco isn't seeing those same levels of demands.

I currently use Valvoline Advanced and EL, but they don't get much love. We have run Adv. in the beginning, then later EL in our last 2 Jeeps and never had an issue. I'm just now coming up on my second oil change in the Bronco, but I did Valvoline Advanced on my first. I do believe in trying to be as consistent as possible, seals and engine internals just seem to be happier with consistency, and that's just what I was taught growing up. I was also taught it's always better to do your own oil changes so you can ensure it's done right, too many nightmare stories otherwise... I do have a backup shop that I trust if I simply run out of time, but I won't take them anywhere random.

I also like to use WIX filters as that was always recommended by my racing buddies. If I have to take it my trusted shop for the change, I bring my own filter as I don't like their in-house.

Like it's been said, proper OCI (oil change interval) is probably the most important factor with these engines, aside from meeting Ford's spec.

For reference:-
Sticky: Bronco - Motor Oil Compilation List that meets Ford Spec WSS-M2C961-A1

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[CarbonSteel]

Interesting. That Fram Endurance, from the pictures, looks remarkably like the OEM Motorcraft High-Performance filter used in the Mustang Shelby GT500. It shows them available at WalMart for $12 bucks, I'll pick one up next time I'm forced into that Hell Hole and take a look.

Ford filters are typically made by Mann+Hummel (Purolator & WIX) which are meh at best. WIX used to be good when Affinia owned them, but they were never high efficiency. Purolator is famous for media tears especially in the spin on filters unless you are using the Boss series which typically has meshed backed media.

The Ford high performance filters are likely made by Champion Labs or they could be rebadged FRAMs, though I am not confident of that. The FRAM Endurance is only sold at WM and is the original FRAM Ultra which has been cheapened in the past few years.

For the price point, it is the only full synthetic mesh backed filter on the market with the efficiency rating it has. I stocked up on them when I bought my Bronco and have them stored in a sealed container with dessicant inside to control humidity.

 

[Dez Pony]

Amsoil quality and variety of products cover just about everything. Lubes for gas engines, diesel engines automatic transmissions, manual gearboxes, diffs, bearing grease,...it goes on and on. My 2022 Badlands has the 2.7L and both diffs using Amsoil in the correct lube weight Ford/Dana require. My Ranger (2.3L), motorhome (6.8L), boat (Mercury 4-Stroke) and home emergency generator (small air-cooled engine), all use specific motor oil (and Amsoil filters) and specific gear oils. I can get good grease for the wheel bearings (marine and road types). I can get everything from them, shipped to my door and the price reduced for being a member. So, for me 30+ years of using Amsoil, I've never had any lube problems, always have enough in stock. And as for warranty issues? My 2011 6.7L diesel suffered a spun rod bearing due to a nasty hard downshift going down a long hill. The engine had Amsoil diesel oil( 15-40 Signature Diesel oil) and the engine was replaced, under warranty, with a Gen 2 reman Ford engine. No question about the oil. Oh, Amsoil offer oil analysis products. I took advantage of that with my first diesel truck, 6.4L. Found out about fuel dilution due to the Bosch high pressure fuel pump. They called me and told me to change oil right NOW!. I did and it lasted a long time. Anybody else offer that? So I'm sticking with Amsoil. If we can afford a new Bronco (then mod it...) we can afford the best products. Good other products out there, but Amsoil has a lot of advantages for me.

 

[PWillette]

I've used about every brand of full synthetic out there at one time or another, no complaints from any. I do my services every 5k so not concerned about longevity. So long as it meets Ford specs I'll use whatever is on sale at the time...recently grabbed a 5qt jug of Quaker State full synthetic at Wally World for $23.

 

[e34john]

Used only Mobil 1 in my 2.0 ecoboost and changed it once a year. Engine was clean when I got rid of my ST.

Now in the 2.3 I use Liquimoly Molygen. Haven't sent a sample to Blackstone yet with this one.

 

[RedSoloCup]

Ive used Supertech Synthetic in my F150 2.7 and it was still working at 5k oil changes thanks to oil analysis data. I’ve used Pennzoil Platinum in my Mustang 5.0 with good oil analysis at 5k changes. I’m now trying out the new Quaker state ultimate protection which is in my 24 Mustang 5.0 currently and will do an oil analysis but bobistheoilguy has great data on it and i used to use the QS ultimate durability which is now labeled as their full synthetic with great success in the past. I got it for 18.82 a 5qt jug at Walmart so bought enough for changes on my Mustang and the Bronco. Just did the change at 1367 miles on the Bronco with it yesterday. I always use motorcraft filters as they work well for my 5k changes.

 

[OF Hero]

Sorry to bump this, just wanted to confirm that the OEM filter can be used with a fully synthetic oil?

 

[Aonarch]

Sorry to bump this, just wanted to confirm that the OEM filter can be used with a fully synthetic oil?

Absolutely.

 

[Fordified1]

Not sure why Ford puts anything but pure synthetic in their turbocharged engines. As far as racing vs street, all turbochargers get extremely hot and oil passes through them. Dinosaur oil makes carbon when it gets extremely hot, a good synthetic doesn’t.

Carbon is abrasive.

 

[Denny Swift]

Threads like this hurt my brain. So I guess the consensus is that Ford specifies a synthetic blend for these engines deliberately so we ruin our engines and have to buy new ones?

The owner’s manual does not even list a full synthetic option. Car/engine engineers design engines based on a specific oil type. New vehicles are very oil specific. Using anything else is a gamble at best. Just because an oil is fully synthetic and costs more does not mean it’s better for your vehicle.

Now I’ll get 42 posts telling me why I’m wrong, and that Ford specifies poor oil because they only want our engines to last to the 60,000 mile warranty mark.

Then I’ll get 27 posts about why only idiots read the owner’s manual when forums like this are available with better information.

 

[SeptuagenerianSasquatch]

I notice there are sub-categories of full synthetic. I'm considering Mobil1 "full synthetic," but Costco carries "Advanced Full Synthetic," and also "High Mileage Full Synthetic." They also have their own brand (Kirkland), a bit cheaper, but it's marked "Dexos Approved/Gen2."
Speaking of which, another warehouse store (BJs) has a promotion for Mobil1 Full synthetic, 6 quarts for $26.49. (I get a .10/gal discount at their gas station on one fill.) Their varieties include "Full Synthetic," "Advanced," "High Mileage," and "Extended Performance." (Also Dexos-stamped.)

My 2022 Badlands 4Dr Squatch is approaching 40K miles, and is mostly a daily drive, but I do take it offroad, (mostly wooded New England trails), although I hope to hit Utah and Nevada in 2025. Do these synthetic varies amount to anything, or is it like loading up the supermarket shelves with as many sub-varieties of Tide detergent as possible to just dominate the market?

I'm of the persuasion that the oil filter counts more towards engine preservation. What's the best, price no object? If I go 10K miles on a super-ultra performance synthetic, would it be prudent to replace the filter at 5K?

Thanks for your input!

 

[Keith J.]

I miss the days of running Rotella 5w-40 in my 94 TT Subi.

You’ll be fine with any quality Syn. Im of the opinion that Amsoil is far overrated for a daily/street vehicle. It will never be pushed to the limit or endure the conditions to warrant the cost. But to each their own, you won’t be making a mistake going with Ams.

Stick with something that matches or exceeds spec, something that protects against LSPI and you’re golden.

Solid advice.

 

[cbrenthus]

Didn't read the whole thread, but we can argue oil brands until we're blue in the fingers (not the face, because we're typing, get it? ). Know why? When was the last time you heard of an engine failure related directly to the type of oil? We don't have the sludge buildup and such that used to happen with old conventional oil, and engines are already broken in from the factory these days.

Bottom line, any major brand synthetic will be fine. I run Mobil 1 in all my vehicles except motorcycles with wet clutches, and have so for 30 years. I remember when the M1 commercials where they would fill with M1, run the engine for a few, then drain the oil and drive around. Not sure if that was true, but just saying I'm that old.

 

[JohnnyBronco]

It's really only a big deal if you're under warranty. Something goes south in your engine they will have an easy out on the repairs if they see an off brand filter. Even if it probably is a rebranded Purolator filter. Don't know if that still true but it was.

Not true. Aftermarket parts do not void warranties .....unless you are running a toilet paper oil filter from JC Whitney (you whippersnappers probably have never seen one)

And for what it's worth, almost all base stock of synthetic oils comes from the same company, Schaeffer. Additives by brand make any difference.

In days long past I would only use PA grade crude which at the time was Pennzoil, Quaker State and Wolf's Head since we believed that our local crude oil was better than TX-OK until PZ and QS moved west of the Mississippi. But synthetic is synthetic and last oil change special at Advance was a free filter with a 5 quart jug.

 

[da_jokker]

Using oil that meets the standards and you'll be okay. Full synthetic for sure due to the turbo heat.

Personally I no longer get involved in oil discussions and instead recommend you check out the "Motor oild geek" on you tube. All the mysteries of oil will be answered, for example 6 qts vs 7

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