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Just keep in mind if you accidentally separate the inner CV joint, you’ll likely have to replace the entire CV axle. If you’re not going to push the axle out, be careful not to pull on the inner CV. I had one separate and even though I was able to get the bearings back in, it never was right after that and I had to replace it. Could’ve been avoided if I’d done a better job of pushing the axle out (an air hammer is a relatively cheap investment if you already have compressed air). Just my 2 cents, don’t want you to end up in the same boat.Good enough for me, I'm going to give it a go.
Thanks for heads up. I know this is a concern, will certainly be paying attention.
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Back to my original question. Why would you do it this way IF removing the lower arm bolts from the subframe reduced or eliminates the risk of seperating the CV and you don’t have to break out big bar to pry down on the suspension. IF you are replacing the upper arm I could understand but other than that?
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Not a gigantic fan but I followed Sarah-n- tuned video, lifting my 2021 Bronco Black Diamond // Bilstien 6100s. Pretty straight forward on the instructions.
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Both of these. Just remove the sway bar mounts, don't disco from the LCA...no need. You just have to maneuver them a little more, but no biggy.
Mark every alignment washer!
This is by far the easiest method. Try this vid. from Stage3Motorsports, it is what I followed.
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Isn't the nut on the end of the axle a one time use fastener?
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I have had both of mine off several times and always reuse the oem nut.. Just set to correct torque specs…
Finally started on my front today adding collars. Half way through dumping the driver LCA first. Taking my time and marked all the cams. On the braptor I have a single lower strut bolt its a bit of a bitch because Ford put a non turning nut on the back side. I was able to break the 27mm bolt loose with a 2' 1/2 breaker bar. if that wasnt enough I got a pipe extension not my first rodeo with these tq specs.
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Drop the lca, no worries on cvs. Done it 2x.
Only issue I had was re torqing the alignment nuts, they simply did not want to stay where they should. I'm thinking next time tightening, then dropping the bronco, and torqing might work
Only issue I had was re torqing the alignment nuts, they simply did not want to stay where they should. I'm thinking next time tightening, then dropping the bronco, and torqing might work
I'm curious did you have to drop the swap bar disconnect in order to get the bolts that hold the LCA out? In the videos I've watched using this method the sway bar is removed to allow enough room for the bolts to come out. But all the videos I've seen were on other trims than the badlands and have a traditional sway bar vs the sway bar disconnect mechanism found on the badlands trim. I am looing at adding the RC 1" lift/level to the front and rear of my badlands and I'd prefer to go with removing the lower control route vs taking the knuckle off the UCA and having to worry about pushing the CV axle out of the knuckle and what not. Any tips/feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry to dig this up, I’m looking at swapping the bilsteins for fox on my badlands. I just took a peek a little bit ago and forgot it has sway bar disco. Did you have any issues with it or even have to move it out of the way?
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Digging this up again.
I also have a Badlands (non-SAS) and looking to add the Zone 1" level. I was going to do the lower control arm removal method, but noticed that the LCA bolt cannot be removed unless the electronic sway bar disconnect is moved. Anyone have any tips on exactly what needs to be done to the Badlands for this to happen?
Thanks.
Too much work to do it that way on a badlands. Do it the other way and pull it out from the top.
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