Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[redone17]

The Kicker key amp will make it louder, and the DSP set up will help to get a little more "shove and fullness behind the sound". However, there is only so much that can be done with 4 inch speakers and 6.5 inch speakers mounted at the kick panels. The "shove and fullness" that you are looking for will come from the addition of a subwoofer (8" and on up). Ultimately, the 200.4 will give you the power to keep the upper frequencies balanced with your subwoofer. Without the sub, highway volumes will always seem a bit harsh.

I had similar questions. I’m currently running Infinity Reference - 4" (87mm) coaxial car speaker Power Handling - 35W RMS, 75W peak Sensitivity (@ 2.83V) - 92dB Frequency Response - 75Hz – 21kHz Impedance 3.0 ohms - in all 4 corners. Stock 6.5”.

I just swapped in the 300 hz blockers (Crutchfield sold me the 600 back in Aug 2021 when no one had much information). Already made a HUGE difference.

I understand these speakers aren’t the best option - I’ll likely upgrade the two dash speakers at one point. The rears seem like they won’t benefit as much from an upgrade.

Will the Kicker Key do a disservice to the Infinity Refs - or, will it be a noticeable benefit?

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[Lurker B6G]

I had similar questions. I’m currently running Infinity Reference - 4" (87mm) coaxial car speaker Power Handling - 35W RMS, 75W peak Sensitivity (@ 2.83V) - 92dB Frequency Response - 75Hz – 21kHz Impedance 3.0 ohms - in all 4 corners. Stock 6.5”.

I just swapped in the 300 hz blockers (Crutchfield sold me the 600 back in Aug 2021 when no one had much information). Already made a HUGE difference.

I understand these speakers aren’t the best option - I’ll likely upgrade the two dash speakers at one point. The rears seem like they won’t benefit as much from an upgrade.

Will the Kicker Key do a disservice to the Infinity Refs - or, will it be a noticeable benefit?

This is just my 2 cents.

I am not sure why you say that the Infinity's are not the best option. For an upgrade with out a amp, they most certainly are the best option (as you already know).

Adding an amp (in this case I will assume the Key 200.4), they will sound a little bit better (because of the DSP) feature, but not everyone agrees. So, unless you are going to add a subwoofer, or at least upgrade the 6.5 kick speakers, I am not sure that the Key 200.4 will add a whole lot to your experience. If you are adding a lot of bottom end to your system the factory amp will struggle to keep up on the high end.

But - and this is a big but - adding the Key 200.4 will provide more power than the stock head unit (lets guess about 4x the power), and this will allow you to drive a less efficient speaker. Infact, if the 4x is a good guess, then you could put in 92-6 = 86dB efficient speakers and they will play at the same volume as the Infinity's without an amp. Are there better speakers on the market, yes. Do you need them - I don't know - it's a pretty noisy truck.

 

[SlvrSurfRidr]

Adding an amp (in this case I will assume the Key 200.4), they will sound a little bit better (because of the DSP) feature, but not everyone agrees.

Agree, I have the Infinity Reference. Lots of discussion on these early in this thread. Crisp and clear, IMHO they are great (with the amp) for cymbals, electric guitars, vocals (rock/pop). They FILL the high end the way I like it filled. Get your mid and bass in the other components, I recommend the Memphis Audio MJP6 for the mid. They fit perfect in the kick panels and have great full mid range.

Go your own way on the sub, tons of suggestions here to choose your own adventure.

 

[omg_bbq]

Agree, I have the Infinity Reference. Lots of discussion on these early in this thread. Crisp and clear, IMHO they are great (with the amp) for cymbals, electric guitars, vocals (rock/pop). They FILL the high end the way I like it filled. Get your mid and bass in the other components, I recommend the Memphis Audio MJP6 for the mid. They fit perfect in the kick panels and have great full mid range.

Go your own way on the sub, tons of suggestions here to choose your own adventure.

Those Memphis ones are intriguing. I'm looking for more low end but don't want anything to do with a sub. Would a 200.4 pair well with 4 infinity references and these MJP6s?

 

[SlvrSurfRidr]

You get some lower response from the Memphis MJP6 (frequency range: 50-10, 000 Hz)

If you wanna get down for bass you're gonna need not only a larger cone, but a lower response. Super hard to do that in the tiny kick panels in this truck. Your best best is the Kicker CSC65 (offered in a couple packages from @plugnplaykits ). They are a larger cone (6.5") and have a SLIGHTLY lower frequency (frequency response: 40-20,000 Hz).

As has been said in this thread many times, you're not getting bass out of the kick panels - they are just too damn small. Get your mid there, then go buy a sub and choose your own adventure on how much you wanna spend, how much bass you wanna get and how much storage space you're willing to lose.

 

[redone17]

@Lurker B6G @SlvrSurfRidr - thanks for the input. I’ll pop around to find some of the earlier posts about Infinity. I had a feeling that installing the amp would lead to upgrading the 6.5 kicker panel speakers.

I’ve been running the Infinity Ref since Aug 2021. I can’t believe it took me this long to update the blockers to 300hz. It’s already sounding much fuller and rounded out. I’m pretty happy with where it’s at…but, I already have the Kit 11 + Power Adapter…so…

 

[redone17]

Agree, I have the Infinity Reference. Lots of discussion on these early in this thread. Crisp and clear, IMHO they are great (with the amp) for cymbals, electric guitars, vocals (rock/pop). They FILL the high end the way I like it filled. Get your mid and bass in the other components, I recommend the Memphis Audio MJP6 for the mid. They fit perfect in the kick panels and have great full mid range.

Go your own way on the sub, tons of suggestions here to choose your own adventure.

Damn. These look very nice. Rounding out at around $270 shipped with all of the mounting components. It’s weird - Crutchfield offers free accessories for one of the speakers - but, when you update the quantity - it doesn’t dupe the accessories.

I have a business account with Crutchfield. I’m gonna see if I can get a nice rate on these.

This is clearly an addiction.

 

[redone17]

@Lurker B6G @SlvrSurfRidr - got around to installing the Kicker Key. Huge difference already. Still need to do the DSP. I used the dip switch settings posts by OP - but, after digging 20 pages in - I haven’t found any info on the gain settings folks are using. Assuming the dial on the right side would increase the sound from the rear? I’m thinking just a few notches would help.

 

[SlvrSurfRidr]

Amplifiers take a source signal (the radio) and amplify it. Different radios have different levels of signal, so amplifier manufacturers include the amplifier gain knob to try to match that signal level.

Ideally, the output voltage of the radio will match the input signal of the amplifier. That will give you the most volume while still remaining a nice, clean sound.

If you turn the amplifier gain beyond the input, it will be louder, but will also add hiss and distortion.

Pop back to this conversation - couple good thoughts in a row there.

This thread is getting pretty long, but in a nutshell most people have the gain all the way down. Seems the Kicker Key 200.4 if pretty well matched to the signal from the head unit. As you turn it up you notice clipping at higher volumes (lights on the amp will indicate this and the sound will drop out/clip). More gain doesn't equal more volume - you're trying to match the amp to the head unit.

 

[redone17]

Pop back to this conversation - couple good thoughts in a row there.

This thread is getting pretty long, but in a nutshell most people have the gain all the way down. Seems the Kicker Key 200.4 if pretty well matched to the signal from the head unit. As you turn it up you notice clipping at higher volumes (lights no the amp will indicate this and the sound will drop out). More gain doesn't equal more volume - you're trying to match the amp to the head unit.

Awesome. Thanks for reiterating. I hope to run the DSP tonight.

 

[Sherminiator]

As has been said in this thread many times, you're not getting bass out of the kick panels - they are just too damn small. Get your mid there, then go buy a sub and choose your own adventure on how much you wanna spend, how much bass you wanna get and how much storage space you're willing to lose.

I've noticed a huge improvement with my kicker speakers with bass in the kick panels over the stock speakers. I have to mess with my sub some more-the first one was awesome the first day I had it and it popped on me within a week or two. I've been running the replacement conservertly and it doesn't have as much oomph behind it, but it also hasn't blown out either. I'll see if I can turn up the bass again without blowing it out again.

 

[BWepps]

I installed a Kicker 180.4 last weekend (got an amazing deal for it vs. the 200.4). I've also upgraded all of the stock (non B&O) speakers including Kicker CS 6.75" in the kick panels. After running the DSP there is virtually no sound coming from the rear pods. They are like maybe outputting 10% of what the front soundstage does. Is that intentional?

I did the Forscan mod for the rear pods a while back, so they had more sound prior to setting up the DSP on the Kicker Amp.

Thanks!

 

[Ryslegit]

I have had my 200.4 installed for quite some time and plan on removing it soon for a proper set up. I have been getting crackling sounds while playing music at any volume level with the gain set to 0. It seems to occur once things start to warm up as well and not sure if it's the amp itself or what, but I am over it.

 

[Bmadda]

I installed a Kicker 180.4 last weekend (got an amazing deal for it vs. the 200.4). I've also upgraded all of the stock (non B&O) speakers including Kicker CS 6.75" in the kick panels. After running the DSP there is virtually no sound coming from the rear pods. They are like maybe outputting 10% of what the front soundstage does. Is that intentional?

I did the Forscan mod for the rear pods a while back, so they had more sound prior to setting up the DSP on the Kicker Amp.

Thanks!

Try redoing setup w/fader dip switch turned off...even after forscan mods there is something flaky about the rear channels, and for whatever reason the DSP makes it worse

 

[mintypickleman]

I have had my 200.4 installed for quite some time and plan on removing it soon for a proper set up. I have been getting crackling sounds while playing music at any volume level with the gain set to 0. It seems to occur once things start to warm up as well and not sure if it's the amp itself or what, but I am over it.

Have you double checked that your radio detect switch is in the correct position?

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