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Cale

Big Bend
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I installed a Kicker Key 200.4 amp in my BaseSquatch today and it made a HUGE difference. It was a straight forward install that took about an hour and a half. The install was made easy because of the harness from plugnplaykits.com. There was no need to cut, splice or drill anything. As you will see in the video below, it litterally was a plug and play operation.

The Kicker Key amp has a build-in automatic DSP that fixes Ford's terrible signal as well as adding 50 watts per channel. The combination is amazing. I have a nice 3 way component speaker set waiting to install in the front and now I'm not even sure I will bother. That is just how big of improvement this is.

I have suspected that Ford is intentionally degrading the sound quality of the base system in an effort to get customers to upgrade to the B&O. These amp and more importantly the smart DSP that is integrated in it really brings the entire stereo to life. Spend you money on this before you spend it on speakers. Good speakers can't fix low power and poor signal.

I put together a quick installation video but wasn't able to show the self tuning step because I needed my phone to play the kicker pink noise DSP turning track. If you want to see that step other installation videos show you how to do that.

Edit: the harness and amp are "Kit 11". Here is the direct link to the bronco kits.
https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41130698473662

This is great! Where do we get a copy of the printout directions?
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Cale

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This is great! Where do we get a copy of the printout directions?
 

kcbronco

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Look for some information that I can't find specifically. I have the kicker key 200.4 with the plug and play kit. I got the kit ready to add a sub, crossing my fingers JL comes out with there stealth soon. I have JL Audio C2s in all 6 locations. I'm getting popping out of the dash speakers in songs with a lot of bass if its turned up at all. I'm not getting it out of the rear location that I can tell though. I'm thinking base blockers to the dash speakers is the way to go. Has anyone else added any and what did you use or recommend.
 

Mc1guil

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Look for some information that I can't find specifically. I have the kicker key 200.4 with the plug and play kit. I got the kit ready to add a sub, crossing my fingers JL comes out with there stealth soon. I have JL Audio C2s in all 6 locations. I'm getting popping out of the dash speakers in songs with a lot of bass if its turned up at all. I'm not getting it out of the rear location that I can tell though. I'm thinking base blockers to the dash speakers is the way to go. Has anyone else added any and what did you use or recommend.
added these:

PAC - BB4PR BB-4PR Pair of 4" Bass Blocker https://a.co/d/4dotp70
 

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Mc1guil

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Did you have any issues with room using these? Did you use the adapters from factory plugs with these?
lots of room, I used fabric tape and heat shrink connectors.
 

Brisco2

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Also make sure the radio detect button is pushed in. Have read about others having the same issue. Pushed mine in at install and never had popping issue.
Look for some information that I can't find specifically. I have the kicker key 200.4 with the plug and play kit. I got the kit ready to add a sub, crossing my fingers JL comes out with there stealth soon. I have JL Audio C2s in all 6 locations. I'm getting popping out of the dash speakers in songs with a lot of bass if its turned up at all. I'm not getting it out of the rear location that I can tell though. I'm thinking base blockers to the dash speakers is the way to go. Has anyone else added any and what did you use or recommend.
 

kcbronco

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I'll double check the radio detect button that would be an easy fix.

It looks like the hz range changes depending on the speaker ohms. Orange PACs are 1200 hz at 4ohms and 800 hz at 8 ohms. Is 1200hz to high. Should I go to the yellow PAC bass blockers so I'm at 800 hz being i'm at 4 ohms.
 

Dirtygrid

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Just installed my kicker key 200.4 and it limiter LED is coming on at 18 volume… which seems really low. Looks like others have it come on at around 27-28? This is with the gain all the way down, and with compression on. Anyone know why this might be?
 

Bearcat1

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Just installed my kicker key 200.4 and it limiter LED is coming on at 18 volume… which seems really low. Looks like others have it come on at around 27-28? This is with the gain all the way down, and with compression on. Anyone know why this might be?
Wire it direct to the battery
 

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Dirtygrid

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Wire it direct to the battery
Forgot to mention, I did wire it to the battery. My ground wire is connected to the bolt that holds the sheet metal bracket under the steering column, a long shot but maybe that’s why? Have no idea about grounds
 

omg_bbq

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Hey gang, been following this thread since it started. I'm getting ready to finally jump in too. I've talked to Crutchfield about my setup currently and what I need to change. I'd like to run it by you all also since they're knowledgeable but this thread is very very in the weeds and might know specifics Crutchfield doesn't.

-Current setup is a non B&O stock 6 speaker system with all 4 of the 4 inch speakers replaced with infinity reference with 300mhz bass blockers at all 4 speakers. The kick panel speakers are still the OEM ones and have not been touched.

-What I want to do is install a 200.4 Key and not upgrade anything further.

-What Crutchfield said was to remove the 4 bass blockers and install the 200.4.

Does this ring true for all of you? Essentially the system is very harsh on the ears at anything over 12 with the Tb and Mid set one click away from 0 on the Ford EQ, Bass is cranked up a bit. Hoping that the 200.4 will bring the high frequencies down and even out the sound so that when I turn it up for highway use it isn't just all harsh high frequencies.
 

Karl_in_Chicago

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Hey gang, been following this thread since it started. I'm getting ready to finally jump in too. I've talked to Crutchfield about my setup currently and what I need to change. I'd like to run it by you all also since they're knowledgeable but this thread is very very in the weeds and might know specifics Crutchfield doesn't.

-Current setup is a non B&O stock 6 speaker system with all 4 of the 4 inch speakers replaced with infinity reference with 300mhz bass blockers at all 4 speakers. The kick panel speakers are still the OEM ones and have not been touched.

-What I want to do is install a 200.4 Key and not upgrade anything further.

-What Crutchfield said was to remove the 4 bass blockers and install the 200.4.

Does this ring true for all of you? Essentially the system is very harsh on the ears at anything over 12 with the Tb and Mid set one click away from 0 on the Ford EQ, Bass is cranked up a bit. Hoping that the 200.4 will bring the high frequencies down and even out the sound so that when I turn it up for highway use it isn't just all harsh high frequencies.
Install the amp and leave the BB's in. Listen. If you feel like it could be better, try removing the BB's. Listen. Decide which you like better. Swapping the BB's in and out should be relatively trivial unless they've been installed in some odd manner. I wouldn't think any 4" speakers are going to make much of that but maybe those Infinity's rock out in that range and it's easy enough to test. You might want to do your upgrade in stages so you can limit your rip/replace efforts.
 

omg_bbq

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Install the amp and leave the BB's in. Listen. If you feel like it could be better, try removing the BB's. Listen. Decide which you like better. Swapping the BB's in and out should be relatively trivial unless they've been installed in some odd manner. I wouldn't think any 4" speakers are going to make much of that but maybe those Infinity's rock out in that range and it's easy enough to test. You might want to do your upgrade in stages so you can limit your rip/replace efforts.
Appreciate it, yeah I installed them normally. Easily swapped out
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