Trailrax Real World Reviews?

[BostonSasquatch]

This thread is bumming me out. I am awaiting my Bronco any day now and have the full rack unopened waiting in my basement.

Thisis making me almost want to sell or return it before I open it. It hurts doubly to know the install sucks so much I will never want to take it off and put back on again. I don’t know yet if I would want it on full time or not.

The full rack can’t be used as a half rack right? All one piece so you either buy fulk or half, so full isn’t modular in that sense, right?

I identify with you -- halfway. I do have my Bronco, but haven't gotten to installing my full rack yet, as I want to find an affordable tech to do the Heretic lightbar. One thing might allay your misgivings, though: the Trailrax is designed to allow you to remove the three front (4DR) or two front (2DR) MIC panels, which was a major factor in my decision purchase, without removing the Trailrax. Going all the way back to the rearmost roof section--well, that's a major undertaking, especially with the Trailrax.

Attn, TrailRax: Consider engineering an easier front install, especially a fast on/off/back on. This would accommodate everybody, but especially those with a suitable garage rafter or ceiling setup to allow a pully hoist for the rear-most MIC section.

Edit, attn Trailrax: a fold-down ladder of the Pak Rax would be neat! Or maybe a loop-over-the-tire step or something like that?

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[BostonSasquatch]

They are half circle shaped with a ball bearing in them allowing you to roll the tracNUT into the load bar slot and position it where desired. Super easy and I have been using them for few years. They are similar to these on Amazon just not sure if these on Amazon fit. I ordered some form another seller trying to get them cheaper than what UpTop sold them for and they were too small.

Excuse me for bein daft, but I don't understand how they work. So they slide into a track on the load-bearing (cross?) beam(s). And they can slide this way and that.
Then what? I don't see a ring or hook to connect a clip, line, or strap to. And the bolt--it goes through the Tracnut, how does it secure into the load bar slot without popping out?
Please enlighten me.

 

[Tilzbow]

Another Trailrax question for you guys. With this rack can I still use my existing Yakima ski rack on the cross bars or do I need an adapter for that? I assume I CAN use the rack but I wanted to see if anyone else was doing that. Also anyone using regular roof top boxes, etc ... any good experience with those on this rack?

See link for how I attached my Yakima cross bars to the TrailRax

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/trailrax-trmr-yakima-bronco-perfect-match.51406/

 

[DangerMTBBronco]

Excuse me for bein daft, but I don't understand how they work. So they slide into a track on the load-bearing (cross?) beam(s). And they can slide this way and that.
Then what? I don't see a ring or hook to connect a clip, line, or strap to. And the bolt--it goes through the Tracnut, how does it secure into the load bar slot without popping out?
Please enlighten me.

They are rounded on the backside to allow them to roll in anywhere along the load bar channel without inserting in the end. They are flat on the opposite side which sits against the channel of the load bar just like any insert you would slide in from the end. They are threaded inserts and works exactly like a regular insert once it's rolled in. Hope that helps.

 

[Delli555]

I identify with you -- halfway. I do have my Bronco, but haven't gotten to installing my full rack yet, as I want to find an affordable tech to do the Heretic lightbar. One thing might allay your misgivings, though: the Trailrax is designed to allow you to remove the three front (4DR) or two front (2DR) MIC panels, which was a major factor in my decision purchase, without removing the Trailrax. Going all the way back to the rearmost roof section--well, that's a major undertaking, especially with the Trailrax.

Attn, TrailRax: Consider engineering an easier front install, especially a fast on/off/back on. This would accommodate everybody, but especially those with a suitable garage rafter or ceiling setup to allow a pully hoist for the rear-most MIC section.

Edit, attn Trailrax: a fold-down ladder of the Pak Rax would be neat! Or maybe a loop-over-the-tire step or something like that?

Let me know if you do find someone in Boston area that is a good price for installing the rack and light bar. I was thinking of ordering Heretic lights in the next month or two. Did you go with white and spot or combo for the light bar?

I assume, in addition to being able to take the panels off for first rows still you could also remove 2 or 3 crossbars from above those seats for even better open air experience with it still being stable and safe to drive on highway, right?

 

[BostonSasquatch]

Let me know if you do find someone in Boston area that is a good price for installing the rack and light bar. I was thinking of ordering Heretic lights in the next month or two. Did you go with white and spot or combo for the light bar?
I assume, in addition to being able to take the panels off for first rows still you could also remove 2 or 3 crossbars from above those seats for even better open air experience with it still being stable and safe to drive on highway, right?

The Bronco itself has no crossbars. The more MIC sections you take off(front to rear, of course), the more wind and sky you get. If you remove the rear-most "cabinet" roof + sides + hatch section (a 4-hand job), the rollbar will remain intact. Bu it is rear of the rear seat, so passengers there will still have wind and sky. I imagine the TrailRax' crossbars can be slid forward, backwards, or removed if they interfere with your experience.
The Heretic lights are available flood (wide), spot (forward beam only), and combo (mixed). TrailRax will include the combo if you buy from them, unless you specify otherwise. That's what I chose, it's a mix.
I use TruckGuys in Weymouth. They did a great job on my Fab4 bumper with a hidden Warn winch. I'll be getting bash plates there next. Tell them you were referred by the old geezer with the gray Badlands who keeps talking about Utah. They're busy. I suggest you visit, if possible, and get acquainted and then decide if you want to set up an appointment. One of their installers quipped, "90% of what we put on never leaves pavement."
Be sure to sign up with the New England Bronco Club and JeepsR4Kids' member list so you can join us when we get a group ride going!

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/group-posts/7645/#js-comment-49812

 

[Delli555]

The Bronco itself has no crossbars. The more MIC sections you take off(front to rear, of course), the more wind and sky you get. If you remove the rear-most "cabinet" roof + sides + hatch section (a 4-hand job), the rollbar will remain intact. Bu it is rear of the rear seat, so passengers there will still have wind and sky. I imagine the TrailRax' crossbars can be slid forward, backwards, or removed if they interfere with your experience.
The Heretic lights are available flood (wide), spot (forward beam only), and combo (mixed). TrailRax will include the combo if you buy from them, unless you specify otherwise. That's what I chose, it's a mix.
I use TruckGuys in Weymouth. They did a great job on my Fab4 bumper with a hidden Warn winch. I'll be getting bash plates there next. Tell them you were referred by the old geezer with the gray Badlands who keeps talking about Utah. They're busy. I suggest you visit, if possible, and get acquainted and then decide if you want to set up an appointment. One of their installers quipped, "90% of what we put on never leaves pavement."
Be sure to sign up with the New England Bronco Club and JeepsR4Kids' member list so you can join us when we get a group ride going!

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/group-posts/7645/#js-comment-49812

Thanks for the info, much appreciated! Weymouth is on my way to work everyday, so easy for me to get to from work or home. I will certainly check them out when I need some install work done if it seems beyond me.

have a nice day!

 

[Natai]

Attn, TrailRax: Consider engineering an easier front install, especially a fast on/off/back on. This would accommodate everybody, but especially those with a suitable garage rafter or ceiling setup to allow a pully hoist for the rear-most MIC section.

I'll second this.
I'm shopping around rack options right now, and TrailRax is on the short list. But I have already invested in a JTop and a Hoist so I can go topless in summer. Having to deal with what is, by all accounts, a terrible installation process up front every time I want to remove the rack is a no-go.

To put it bluntly, if it's not possible quickly remove and re-install the rack, I won't be buying the rack.

Edit: After looking at a couple of install videos, I'm starting to wonder if this is less of an issue.
Is there some reason you couldn't simply remove the bolts from each side and separate the front portion from the rest of the rack? Basically just leave the forward piece and wind deflector in place and take the rest of the rack off when not needed.
If this is an option, then it seems like uninstalling the Pakrax from the sides would be the biggest issue with removing the clamshell.

 

[TrailRax]

I identify with you -- halfway. I do have my Bronco, but haven't gotten to installing my full rack yet, as I want to find an affordable tech to do the Heretic lightbar. One thing might allay your misgivings, though: the Trailrax is designed to allow you to remove the three front (4DR) or two front (2DR) MIC panels, which was a major factor in my decision purchase, without removing the Trailrax. Going all the way back to the rearmost roof section--well, that's a major undertaking, especially with the Trailrax.

Attn, TrailRax: Consider engineering an easier front install, especially a fast on/off/back on. This would accommodate everybody, but especially those with a suitable garage rafter or ceiling setup to allow a pully hoist for the rear-most MIC section.

Edit, attn Trailrax: a fold-down ladder of the Pak Rax would be neat! Or maybe a loop-over-the-tire step or something like that?

Hello Everyone,

We appreciate the positive feedback as well as the constructive criticism. As for the first issue people are bringing up, the front mount is difficult to get to but with a ratcheting 10mm it is easy to remove on and off. Our team can install and uninstall a rack within 5-10 mins. Yes it is tight but that is the take back to a low profile rack that has proper load rating. Everything is weight tested in a CAD software that verifies our load rating as well as real world tested. Trust us, when we first came out with the prototype, it was tough to get the front parts on but once you have it down it is easy. The factory studs from Ford offer a extended stud that allows you to drop the nut on and it self aligns itself to the threads. This is especially helpful for the process of installing.

The uninstall for customers involve 4 nuts and bolts in the rear (8 on the 4 door) and 4 nuts up front. It is as quick as possible to remove. Keep in mind, this is an entire roof rack, making it easy to come on and off has its pro's and con's. We wanted to offer a rack that would allow this as much as possible without limiting the load carrying capability of the rack.

For the ladder, we will not be designing one of these as it will impede on our Pak Rax. We designed grab handles and our Pak Rax to help assist you to get to the top rack of the vehicle, use those to assist you onto your vehicle.

 

[TrailRax]

I’ll echo the positive comments about wind noise, ease of removing the roof panels, etc. I’ll also echo the negative comments about attaching the front mounting nuts, those things are a PIA!

A couple of criticisms not mentioned:

If you want to mount attachments inside the slots on the roof rails, the roof rails have to be removed to get the T-nuts inside the slots. Other manufacturers, such as JCR Off-road, widen the slots on each end to enable a T-nut to be inserted without removing the rail.


A bigger issue for me is when mounting a Rotopax to the PakRax and then driving off road on a washboard road at moderate speed, the rack creates so much noise I had to remove the Rotopax. Everything is tight and solid, Rotopax are mounted according to TrailRax recommendations yet I still get a low frequency vibration that is heavily amplified by the MIC top on my two door. I contacted TrailRax, communicated back and forth via a email for a few days and they offered no suggestions other than what I’d already done, then they went silent after they seemed to admit an understanding of the issue. I came up with the idea of adding a rubber gasket between the PackRax and the supports and that seems to have helped and I’m also going to place some 1/8” neoprene between the Rotopax and the PackRax which should further reduce the noise.

TrailRax service seems good when everything is okay but when pushed they seem to get a little defensive and seemed more interested in placing blame elsewhere than admitting there could be a problem and helping solve to it. I had a similar experience when questioning their install video and instructions, both of which had some errors that have since been corrected.

All that said, I’d buy it again since it’s well made, is the only one on the market that‘s reasonably priced with the ability to mount fuel packs on the side with attachment points to the lower half of the Bronco.

Hey Scott,

Sorry our customer service team may have seemed they left you on read. If you can follow up with that email, we are happy to assist you further. Our team has only heard of a small handful of stories of rattling. We are happy to help.

Also, apologizes if our team makes it sound like they are getting defensive, it likely was portrayed over email incorrectly. They are here to help and give guidance so you enjoy our product.

 

[Delli555]

Hello Everyone,

We appreciate the positive feedback as well as the constructive criticism. As for the first issue people are bringing up, the front mount is difficult to get to but with a ratcheting 10mm it is easy to remove on and off. Our team can install and uninstall a rack within 5-10 mins. Yes it is tight but that is the take back to a low profile rack that has proper load rating. Everything is weight tested in a CAD software that verifies our load rating as well as real world tested. Trust us, when we first came out with the prototype, it was tough to get the front parts on but once you have it down it is easy. The factory studs from Ford offer a extended stud that allows you to drop the nut on and it self aligns itself to the threads. This is especially helpful for the process of installing.

The uninstall for customers involve 4 nuts and bolts in the rear (8 on the 4 door) and 4 nuts up front. It is as quick as possible to remove. Keep in mind, this is an entire roof rack, making it easy to come on and off has its pro's and con's. We wanted to offer a rack that would allow this as much as possible without limiting the load carrying capability of the rack.

For the ladder, we will not be designing one of these as it will impede on our Pak Rax. We designed grab handles and our Pak Rax to help assist you to get to the top rack of the vehicle, use those to assist you onto your vehicle.

Thanks, this is helpful!

Do you have a link or part # for the extended stud Ford has available in case I decide I want to order that soon before i install my rack for the first time?

 

[TrailRax]

Thanks, this is helpful!

Do you have a link or part # for the extended stud Ford has available in case I decide I want to order that soon before i install my rack for the first time?

There is no link, but we should have a bronco in for install later today. I will snag a picture of the extended part of the stud, it is not a purchasable item, it comes on the stud from factory. I will look up the pic for everyone.

 

[TrailRax]

Thanks, this is helpful!

Do you have a link or part # for the extended stud Ford has available in case I decide I want to order that soon before i install my rack for the first time?

Not the greatest picture ever but the top part of the stud is unthreaded and allows a nut to align and drop onto it without having to start threading it. This small part makes it super easy to install compared to not having it. Also, We have attached out new install instructions as well that we have worked on for the past 4 months.

 

[RagnarKon]

Not the greatest picture ever but the top part of the stud is unthreaded and allows a nut to align and drop onto it without having to start threading it. This small part makes it super easy to install compared to not having it. Also, We have attached out new install instructions as well that we have worked on for the past 4 months.

Also... just to note for anyone doing the install.

That stud is apparently not galvanized or stainless and rusts very easily. So if you accidentally chip the paint when doing the install of the TrailRax rack (or any other rack for that matter), make sure you somehow protect it... nail polish is a personal favorite of mine.

Definitely does not look like something that could be easily replaced if it rusts out.

(To be clear this isn't the TrailRax rack itself, but rather the stud attached to the Bronco at the factory.)

 

[Tilzbow]

Hello Everyone,

We appreciate the positive feedback as well as the constructive criticism. As for the first issue people are bringing up, the front mount is difficult to get to but with a ratcheting 10mm it is easy to remove on and off. Our team can install and uninstall a rack within 5-10 mins. Yes it is tight but that is the take back to a low profile rack that has proper load rating. Everything is weight tested in a CAD software that verifies our load rating as well as real world tested. Trust us, when we first came out with the prototype, it was tough to get the front parts on but once you have it down it is easy. The factory studs from Ford offer a extended stud that allows you to drop the nut on and it self aligns itself to the threads. This is especially helpful for the process of installing.

The uninstall for customers involve 4 nuts and bolts in the rear (8 on the 4 door) and 4 nuts up front. It is as quick as possible to remove. Keep in mind, this is an entire roof rack, making it easy to come on and off has its pro's and con's. We wanted to offer a rack that would allow this as much as possible without limiting the load carrying capability of the rack.

For the ladder, we will not be designing one of these as it will impede on our Pak Rax. We designed grab handles and our Pak Rax to help assist you to get to the top rack of the vehicle, use those to assist you onto your vehicle.

I tried a Husky ratcheting 10mm wrench from Home Depot and it wouldn’t fit due to the fact the head of the wrench was too large. Do you know what brand of wrench you’re team is using?

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