Mini Sub Install

[Dadsquatch]

Installed a sub last Saturday and just wanted to thank you this forum and a couple of members who helped me along the way.
Thank you @rtd16, @Frankie945 and Crutchfield customer service.

Ended up installing JBL BassPro Nano under the driver's seat.
Not fully concealed due to the little hump (rubber floor) though.

It took me more than 5 hours. Much longer than expected.
But I am TOTALLY new to this (Not a car/ audio guy) and I took time to make sure that all is safely and cleanly done.
I was very nervous when disconnecting the battery ; and poking through the firewall. But it came out all good in the end.

Since Key 200.4 installed and DSP set already, I tapped into PNP harness to take high-level input before the amp.
And ran wires through door sill (Power and Ground) and center console (speaker wires).

The little sub is really moving the air, but I still need to spend more time on settings (Tried a quick gain matching and etc but not really happy with it. Any advice?)

Thank you again all.

Regards,

Hi, did you take any pics during your install? I’m thinking about doing the same setup as you and installing the JBL BassPro Nano. I’ve already installed the Kicker Key 200.4 and have the plug N play harness, but didn’t get the plug N play harness that accepts a powered sub. So I’m wandering how I tap into the harness for I already got for instead of buying another $200 plug N play harness that already has the powered sub tap.

And when you said you tapped into the plug N play harness “before” the kicker key, does that mean directly at the head unit or at one end or the other of the kicker key? Just trying to understand if I need to take apart all my trim again to access the head unit or if I can tap into it closer to the kicker key where it’s more accessible at my steering column. Thank you.

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[Chirico]

Hi, did you take any pics during your install? I’m thinking about doing the same setup as you and installing the JBL BassPro Nano. I’ve already installed the Kicker Key 200.4 and have the plug N play harness, but didn’t get the plug N play harness that accepts a powered sub. So I’m wandering how I tap into the harness for I already got for instead of buying another $200 plug N play harness that already has the powered sub tap.

And when you said you tapped into the plug N play harness “before” the kicker key, does that mean directly at the head unit or at one end or the other of the kicker key? Just trying to understand if I need to take apart all my trim again to access the head unit or if I can tap into it closer to the kicker key where it’s more accessible at my steering column. Thank you.

Unfortunately, No pictures.

But basically, what I did is tapping into PNP harness going into INPUT side of the Key. (See image that I borrowed from PNP. Red arrow.)

There should be total 8 wires going in. I tapped into left 4 wires (Input 1) to get full signal from HU. (See image from the manual)

I peeled off a bit of the black tape to expose enough wire for tapping (Posi taps used. See image from Crutchfield)
One note if you end up using Posi taps: Taps are relatively large, and wires are tightly bundled. Be careful not to pull the wires out of the translucent connector.

One extra note,
The sub (JBL Basspro Nano) under driver's seat is very tight fit depending on your seat position. You may have to raise the seat to make it fit there.

Hope this helps a bit.
If you need any pictures, I can try to snap some over the weekend.

Regards,

 

[Dadsquatch]

Unfortunately, No pictures.

But basically, what I did is tapping into PNP harness going into INPUT side of the Key. (See image that I borrowed from PNP. Red arrow.)

There should be total 8 wires going in. I tapped into left 4 wires (Input 1) to get full signal from HU. (See image from the manual)

I peeled off a bit of the black tape to expose enough wire for tapping (Posi taps used. See image from Crutchfield)
One note if you end up using Posi taps: Taps are relatively large, and wires are tightly bundled. Be careful not to pull the wires out of the translucent connector.

One extra note,
The sub (JBL Basspro Nano) under driver's seat is very tight fit depending on your seat position. You may have to raise the seat to make it fit there.

Hope this helps a bit.
If you need any pictures, I can try to snap some over the weekend.

Regards,

Very helpful. Thank you! A couple more questions:

1.) What you described gets me the signal only right? I still need power & ground? And fuse? Is there a way to tap power & ground from the P&P harness too instead of going all the way to the battery? I assume it would be from the opposite end of the Kicker Key (the side with 14 wires going to it).
2.) What connector did you use on the sub side connection?
3.) Despite the Posi-Connectors being large and needing to be careful, do they seem secure or is there a better connector you would use instead?

Thank You!

 

[Chirico]

Very helpful. Thank you! A couple more questions:

1.) What you described gets me the signal only right? I still need power & ground? And fuse? Is there a way to tap power & ground from the P&P harness too instead of going all the way to the battery? I assume it would be from the opposite end of the Kicker Key (the side with 14 wires going to it).
2.) What connector did you use on the sub side connection?
3.) Despite the Posi-Connectors being large and needing to be careful, do they seem secure or is there a better connector you would use instead?

Thank You!

+ IMPORTANT! As mentioned above, I am a total newbie. Please take it with a grain of salt.

1) Yes, just for high level speaker input. You still need to do Power & Ground.
I also thought of connecting to PNP harness, but I didn't want to take any risk.
(I actually talked to Crutchfield* about Power Wire and they recommended 10 gauge, yes! 10!. So I scratched my idea of tapping into PNP harness;;
So direct connection to the battery (with Crutchfield power wiring kit)

2) You can certainly use the same connector but I used this smaller connector (see image from Crutchfield)
For the Power and Ground, I used butt connectors.

3) They seem very secure. (I also talked to Crutchfield* for their recommendations) I would use them again since it is easy and secure.
Just be careful not to ruin PNP harness. Peel the tape a bit more to easy up the bundle?

* I had to ask the same questions to different reps since I got some different opinions/ directions from them. But these were their general consensus.

My question to you.

How is the sound after adding Key to the system?
I am having a trouble with DSP setting.
It is centered with good soundstage but sounds muddy? (not properly EQed? Enhanced mid?) which makes most of music from my library unbearable.
With DSP off, it is clean but less imaging Further away from me.
I turned off DSP for now but I am still trying to figure out what it is: My setting is off or the Key is defective.

Thank you.

 

[Dadsquatch]

+ IMPORTANT! As mentioned above, I am a total newbie. Please take it with a grain of salt.

1) Yes, just for high level speaker input. You still need to do Power & Ground.
I also thought of connecting to PNP harness, but I didn't want to take any risk.
(I actually talked to Crutchfield* about Power Wire and they recommended 10 gauge, yes! 10!. So I scratched my idea of tapping into PNP harness;;
So direct connection to the battery (with Crutchfield power wiring kit)

2) You can certainly use the same connector but I used this smaller connector (see image from Crutchfield)
For the Power and Ground, I used butt connectors.

3) They seem very secure. (I also talked to Crutchfield* for their recommendations) I would use them again since it is easy and secure.
Just be careful not to ruin PNP harness. Peel the tape a bit more to easy up the bundle?

* I had to ask the same questions to different reps since I got some different opinions/ directions from them. But these were their general consensus.

My question to you.

How is the sound after adding Key to the system?
I am having a trouble with DSP setting.
It is centered with good soundstage but sounds muddy? (not properly EQed? Enhanced mid?) which makes most of music from my library unbearable.
With DSP off, it is clean but less imaging Further away from me.
I turned off DSP for now but I am still trying to figure out what it is: My setting is off or the Key is defective.

Thank you.

Thanks for all your help. I'm a newbie too, but capable of getting it done just like you. I'm just not sure if I want to go through all of this or not yet. I bought the JBL BassPro Nano anyway and really just want to see how it fits under the seat......that will then determine if I want to go through the next step of wiring it all up via your steps.

The other option I'm considering is to replace both my 6.5" kick panel speakers with Memphis Audio MJP6 6.5" Woofers instead of a 2-way speaker as others on the forum have done and suggested. I will also be replacing my 4" dash speakers too. That way I essentially get two subwoofers at the kick panels for a bit more bass.

Answering your question about my Kicker Key 200.4 install, here is a summary of my thoughts:

- Base system.....honestly not terrible with the right audio source (usb drive or Apple CarPlay music). Radio sounds terrible though. I really only added the Kicker Key because everyone said too.....and now I'm hooked.
- Kicker Key 200.4 install......much louder, clearer, and a bit more bass, but I'm still wanting more. No issues like you've been describing on the forum. It sounded good before I did DSP and a bit better after DSP.

 

[Chirico]

Thanks for all your help. I'm a newbie too, but capable of getting it done just like you. I'm just not sure if I want to go through all of this or not yet. I bought the JBL BassPro Nano anyway and really just want to see how it fits under the seat......that will then determine if I want to go through the next step of wiring it all up via your steps.

The other option I'm considering is to replace both my 6.5" kick panel speakers with Memphis Audio MJP6 6.5" Woofers instead of a 2-way speaker as others on the forum have done and suggested. I will also be replacing my 4" dash speakers too. That way I essentially get two subwoofers at the kick panels for a bit more bass.

Answering your question about my Kicker Key 200.4 install, here is a summary of my thoughts:

- Base system.....honestly not terrible with the right audio source (usb drive or Apple CarPlay music). Radio sounds terrible though. I really only added the Kicker Key because everyone said too.....and now I'm hooked.
- Kicker Key 200.4 install......much louder, clearer, and a bit more bass, but I'm still wanting more. No issues like you've been describing on the forum. It sounded good before I did DSP and a bit better after DSP.

Yes, checking the fit first is smart move!.
My 4yr old is stepping and kicking the sub in and out of the truck all the time~;;; (2DR here)
But it is still good location, I believe: Short wiring, easy to hide all the wires.

Powering from the battery was not too bad.
For grounding, I added it to an existing located b/w door and kick panel speaker (driver's side)
All running behind the kick panel and under door sill.
(Speaker wires on the other side of the driver's seat)


I guess having woofer only in kick panels could be interesting.
My newbie thought/ concern would be vibration?
(with DSP on, some good punch and boom even from my 2way)

I am not totally happy with the kick panel setup due to its flimsy plastic trim poorly attached to the body.
Not too happy with Metra adapter that I used to install the Kicker KS speakers down there either.
And the passenger side speaker cover is slightly touching the speaker cone (Plenty of room on Driver's side though) that I had to wedge with small rubber tape.
I may have to revisit and put some sound deadening materials behind/ around the speakers and find a better way to secure the panels to the body.

 

[Kelly13]

Anyone have a close up of how/where you tapped into the factory kicker panel harnesses? Thanks!

 

[Black_Stallion13]

I am really curious about this sub, as I just want more bass to round out the audio (not trying to rattle windows). I am torn between this and the Kicker hideaway. Both seem to be about what I am looking for, but I am really against tapping into the OE wiring harness. I have Kicker CS series in the front (kick panel installed and dash once my bass blockers arrive tomorrow).. with pigtails. Is there any way to tap into the pigtails vs the car's wiring harness?

Not sure if you already got around to installing, but if you use positap connectors you don't need to worry about messing anything up with the factory wiring - that is the whole point of them. They simply pierce the wire casing like a needle so if you decide to remove them the wire is left as it was originally (a piece of electric tape easily covers the "injection point" if you need to remove them.) They are awesome connectors that won't compromise the original wire at all.

 

[Jazer]

Not sure if you already got around to installing, but if you use positap connectors you don't need to worry about messing anything up with the factory wiring - that is the whole point of them. They simply pierce the wire casing like a needle so if you decide to remove them the wire is left as it was originally (a piece of electric tape easily covers the "injection point" if you need to remove them.) They are awesome connectors that won't compromise the original wire at all.

Thanks for the reply - I ended up going with a kicker key & kicker hideaway from PnP with all the necessary wiring harnesses.. but yeah I have heard of those connectors. They seem a lot better than a traditional splice. I didnt want to make a single poke anywhere in the OE harness. I've had my share or cars I wouldn't bat an eye with doing that, but this isn't one of them, haha.

 

[Dadsquatch]

Yes, checking the fit first is smart move!.
My 4yr old is stepping and kicking the sub in and out of the truck all the time~;;; (2DR here)
But it is still good location, I believe: Short wiring, easy to hide all the wires.

Powering from the battery was not too bad.
For grounding, I added it to an existing located b/w door and kick panel speaker (driver's side)
All running behind the kick panel and under door sill.
(Speaker wires on the other side of the driver's seat)


I guess having woofer only in kick panels could be interesting.
My newbie thought/ concern would be vibration?
(with DSP on, some good punch and boom even from my 2way)

I am not totally happy with the kick panel setup due to its flimsy plastic trim poorly attached to the body.
Not too happy with Metra adapter that I used to install the Kicker KS speakers down there either.
And the passenger side speaker cover is slightly touching the speaker cone (Plenty of room on Driver's side though) that I had to wedge with small rubber tape.
I may have to revisit and put some sound deadening materials behind/ around the speakers and find a better way to secure the panels to the body.

I got my JBL BassPro Nano installed. I was actually able to fit it under the backseat (4-Door OBX High Package). It fits really good actually, with some caveats. I had to install it at an angle due to the hump in the carpeted floor, but works & sounds great and I guess at an angle like this actually provides some extra ventilation, lol. I used some heavy duty velcro strips from Home Depot to secure it to the floorboard carpet. I lined the underside of the long ends of the sub with the velcro strips, and although they are not getting full contact with the carpet due to the angle, since they are heavy duty velcro they are providing plenty of grip. It's not going anywhere. There is also just enough room to clear the metal braces under the seat, so there is no metal on metal vibration. And if I ever want to remove it to fold the seats down, I can just unplug it and pull it up. Removing mine to fold the seats down will rarely happen, as I have kids in car seats back there and it's already a PIA to remove the car seats to put the seats down anyway. See photos (sorry, didn't take any before I stuck the velcro down).

I ended up getting the add-on powered sub wiring kit from PNP for the high level input, and just added it into my PNP harness I already had installed. In hindsight, you're better off just buying the full amp + powered sub PNP kit from the get go. I ended up doing double work, and ran into some slight problems, but overall I was able to overcome them and happy I'm tied in properly up at the head-unit. All I have left to do is clean up my cabling at the sub (cable management).

I must say, this sub kicks ass! It really puts out some bass for how small it is. Very impressive and makes the system sound so good. I almost feel like adding a sub should be the first step, even ahead of the Kicker Key and new speakers. I've never had a sub in any of my cars before, and can't believe what I've been missing out on. It's great because inside the Bronco this thing thumps, but outside you can't even hear there's a subwoofer installed. It's quiet from the outside.....no boom boom stoplight rattling. I also installed the remote bass control that came with it on the side of my driver's seat (see photos). I just used some double-sided tape.

Overall, my install came out awesome and I'm very happy with it now.

P.S. My overall system includes Kicker Key 200.4, Kicker 4" KS dash speakers, Kicker 6-3/4" KS kick panel speakers, JBL BassPro Nano. The only thing I haven't touched yet is the rear 4" pods, and likely will just leave them stock as that seems to be the consensus on the forum. If anything, I might up the gain on them from the Kicker Key.

Let me know if anyone has any questions on my install. Thank you.

 

[Chirico]

I got my JBL BassPro Nano installed. I was actually able to fit it under the backseat (4-Door OBX High Package). It fits really good actually, with some caveats. I had to install it at an angle due to the hump in the carpeted floor, but works & sounds great and I guess at an angle like this actually provides some extra ventilation, lol. I used some heavy duty velcro strips from Home Depot to secure it to the floorboard carpet. I lined the underside of the long ends of the sub with the velcro strips, and although they are not getting full contact with the carpet due to the angle, since they are heavy duty velcro they are providing plenty of grip. It's not going anywhere. There is also just enough room to clear the metal braces under the seat, so there is no metal on metal vibration. And if I ever want to remove it to fold the seats down, I can just unplug it and pull it up. Removing mine to fold the seats down will rarely happen, as I have kids in car seats back there and it's already a PIA to remove the car seats to put the seats down anyway. See photos (sorry, didn't take any before I stuck the velcro down).

I ended up getting the add-on powered sub wiring kit from PNP for the high level input, and just added it into my PNP harness I already had installed. In hindsight, you're better off just buying the full amp + powered sub PNP kit from the get go. I ended up doing double work, and ran into some slight problems, but overall I was able to overcome them and happy I'm tied in properly up at the head-unit. All I have left to do is clean up my cabling at the sub (cable management).

I must say, this sub kicks ass! It really puts out some bass for how small it is. Very impressive and makes the system sound so good. I almost feel like adding a sub should be the first step, even ahead of the Kicker Key and new speakers. I've never had a sub in any of my cars before, and can't believe what I've been missing out on. It's great because inside the Bronco this thing thumps, but outside you can't even hear there's a subwoofer installed. It's quiet from the outside.....no boom boom stoplight rattling. I also installed the remote bass control that came with it on the side of my driver's seat (see photos). I just used some double-sided tape.

Overall, my install came out awesome and I'm very happy with it now.

P.S. My overall system includes Kicker Key 200.4, Kicker 4" KS dash speakers, Kicker 6-3/4" KS kick panel speakers, JBL BassPro Nano. The only thing I haven't touched yet is the rear 4" pods, and likely will just leave them stock as that seems to be the consensus on the forum. If anything, I might up the gain on them from the Kicker Key.

Let me know if anyone has any questions on my install. Thank you.

Congrats on your successful setup!
Looks good with easily accessible sub location.

Gain/ Boost/LPF in the picture is your final setting?
I haven't been able to dial those right yet.
(Had some issues with the Key and finally sorted out last weekend-microphone problems. Hoping to spend some hours to tune the sub soon)

I have pretty much the same setup as yours (Key200 + 4" KS (w/ 600hz blockers for Dash & Pod) + 6.75" KS (Kick) + JBL Nano sub.)
But I am barely able to rotate the gain nob to 9 o'clock position. (0 boost/ LPF @ around 110-120 hz)
Some songs are getting out of balance even with slightly higher gain.
Some songs work better with higher gain though (Nice and Punchy!)

 

[Dadsquatch]

Congrats on your successful setup!
Looks good with easily accessible sub location.

Gain/ Boost/LPF in the picture is your final setting?
I haven't been able to dial those right yet.
(Had some issues with the Key and finally sorted out last weekend-microphone problems. Hoping to spend some hours to tune the sub soon)

I have pretty much the same setup as yours (Key200 + 4" KS (w/ 600hz blockers for Dash & Pod) + 6.75" KS (Kick) + JBL Nano sub.)
But I am barely able to rotate the gain nob to 9 o'clock position. (0 boost/ LPF @ around 110-120 hz)
Some songs are getting out of balance even with slightly higher gain.
Some songs work better with higher gain though (Nice and Punchy!)

Yes, those are my final settings on the sub. I'm pretty happy with them. I didn't notice much of a difference when playing with the Bass Boost dial or the LPF dial, but the Gain dial certainly makes a difference. No difference for me either with the Phase button. Doing the sub settings was honestly the easiest part for me.....took me 10 min to dial it in right. And with the remote control in an arms reach I'm able to dial it down for certain songs. I really only see myself dialing it down though when I increase overall volume at the head unit (like around 12+ volume level).

It does seem like we have a very similar setup, and you're stilling having issues. A couple variables in our setups though:

1.) You have bass blockers on your 4" dash speakers. I bought some 300hz ones, but decided not to install them as I wasn't getting any distortion, even at high volume levels. Maybe my decision will change as I continue to listen more and the speakers break it, but don't think I need them right now.
2.) You tapped your high level inputs right at the input side of the Kicker Key. I was going to do that, but PNP told me not to, and if I did that I needed a resistor (although money making opportunity for them, so not sure why they wouldn't tell me to buy their product). So my fear kicked in, and I ended up getting the PNP powered sub wire harness to plug into my already installed PNP Kicker Key harness. So my high level inputs are tied in further upstream towards the head unit, and I have a resistor installed 17' downstream at the other end just before the high level inputs go into the sub (see photo for the resistor in the PNP kit.....it's the blue rectangle). Not sure if that's your problem or not, but something to consider.

 

[Chirico]

Yes, those are my final settings on the sub. I'm pretty happy with them. I didn't notice much of a difference when playing with the Bass Boost dial or the LPF dial, but the Gain dial certainly makes a difference. No difference for me either with the Phase button. Doing the sub settings was honestly the easiest part for me.....took me 10 min to dial it in right. And with the remote control in an arms reach I'm able to dial it down for certain songs. I really only see myself dialing it down though when I increase overall volume at the head unit (like around 12+ volume level).

It does seem like we have a very similar setup, and you're stilling having issues. A couple variables in our setups though:

1.) You have bass blockers on your 4" dash speakers. I bought some 300hz ones, but decided not to install them as I wasn't getting any distortion, even at high volume levels. Maybe my decision will change as I continue to listen more and the speakers break it, but don't think I need them right now.
2.) You tapped your high level inputs right at the input side of the Kicker Key. I was going to do that, but PNP told me not to, and if I did that I needed a resistor (although money making opportunity for them, so not sure why they wouldn't tell me to buy their product). So my fear kicked in, and I ended up getting the PNP powered sub wire harness to plug into my already installed PNP Kicker Key harness. So my high level inputs are tied in further upstream towards the head unit, and I have a resistor installed 17' downstream at the other end just before the high level inputs go into the sub (see photo for the resistor in the PNP kit.....it's the blue rectangle). Not sure if that's your problem or not, but something to consider.

Thank you for the response.

PNP harness takes input from the Key or from HU?
The resistor there to deal with impedance matching? Heat dissipates?
(I have no idea of impedance of HU and the sub. And I don't really think I know what the resistor really is. lol; )

I am taking the high-level input basically from the HU, I didn't even think of ohm of the sub.
Time to do some research, I guess.
I will also have to spend some time to tune the sub.

Thank you for the advice.

 

[Dadsquatch]

Thank you for the response.

PNP harness takes input from the Key or from HU?
The resistor there to deal with impedance matching? Heat dissipates?
(I have no idea of impedance of HU and the sub. And I don't really think I know what the resistor really is. lol; )

I am taking the high-level input basically from the HU, I didn't even think of ohm of the sub.
Time to do some research, I guess.
I will also have to spend some time to tune the sub.

Thank you for the advice.

The PNP harness takes the input from the HU. Technically your method is taking it from the HU as well, just further downstream and after another split in the wires somewhere just before it goes into the Key. Take a look at the harness photo I attached in my previous post and see if you can chase down the difference. Maybe there's not one, but I have to believe PNP did it for a reason given their knowledge. I can tell you the 4 wire colors I tied into at the HU with the PNP kit are different colors than the 4 wires on the leftmost input side of the Key. I have no idea what the resistor does either, but was cheap insurance for my time to just run with it and not have to deal with questioning "what if".

As for tuning the sub, it's very simple.....a 10 min job. So if you're having troubles beyond that, something is likely wrong. Here is the order I did things:

- Install Kicker Key
- Install new speakers
- Run Kicker Key DSP
- Install Sub
- Tune Sub

Don't run DSP with the sub running, as the added bass will likely mess with it. Keep them independent. You can also fine tune things afterwards at the HU sounds settings (treble, midrange, bass) and at the Key (gain dials). You saw my sub settings already, but my HU settings are still at the default/reset middle status, and my Kicker Key gains are hardly dialed up.

Hope all this helps on your journey.

 

[rtazz17]

Not sure if you already got around to installing, but if you use positap connectors you don't need to worry about messing anything up with the factory wiring - that is the whole point of them. They simply pierce the wire casing like a needle so if you decide to remove them the wire is left as it was originally (a piece of electric tape easily covers the "injection point" if you need to remove them.) They are awesome connectors that won't compromise the original wire at all.

Do not use these. Yeah seem great on surface but they let go over time and then you lose your mind trying to figure out whats wrong. Not good at all. No shop in the world uses these connectors for good reason.

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