Mini Sub Install

[rtd16]

Black_Stallion1, the fuse taps are ATR micro fuse taps. I put a link to one on amazon down below, but you can get them at any auto parts store. Sorry for the confusion in the video since I had two different types. I grabbed two different ones just in case when I went to do this and left the other sitting on the seat when I recorded it.
Fuse slot 4 should be the power tap, and fuse slot 35 for the remote turn on signal.

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Circ...uNTUifQ==&sprefix=atr+fuse+tap,aps,215&sr=8-3

Sponsored

 

[Mattwings]

In case people are looking for other sub options without loosing cargo space. Is used an 8” Polk slim mount subwoofer and built the custom enclosure -

It use brackets off the hardtop mounting bolt and speaker mounts with wing nuts for quick removal. I didn’t even loose the rear storage pocket

 

[Black_Stallion13]

Black_Stallion1, the fuse taps are ATR micro fuse taps. I put a link to one on amazon down below, but you can get them at any auto parts store. Sorry for the confusion in the video since I had two different types. I grabbed two different ones just in case when I went to do this and left the other sitting on the seat when I recorded it.
Fuse slot 4 should be the power tap, and fuse slot 35 for the remote turn on signal.

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Circuit-Adapter-Holder-50058R/dp/B08G1KPX7W/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1KIPZD3D08RPX&keywords=atr+fuse+tap&qid=1666866903&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjA5IiwicXNhIjoiMy43OSIsInFzcCI6IjMuNTUifQ==&sprefix=atr+fuse+tap,aps,215&sr=8-3

Thanks! Looks like you used a 5 amp fuse in slot 35 and a 20 amp in slot 4, is that correct?

 

[rtd16]

Sounds right, but if I remember correctly I just installed the removed fuses from the spots and put them in the fuse tap. Buuuut it was a while ago. Either way 20 amp on the power supply and 5 on the turn on should be fine. I believe the sub is supposed to only draw less than 10 amps

 

[negativezero]

Thanks for all the extra guidance! I'm also slated to try to install mine this weekend too.

First time doing anything serious with car audio in my life. My only other experience is plug & play replacing the four 4" speakers.

 

[negativezero]

Got mine installed today! That took a LOT longer than I thought it was going to, and I'll be happy if I don't have to do that any time soon. I took my time, had to run upstairs probably 50 times, and probably overdid it with tab terminals & heat shrink at every connection.

I was so relieved to see that thing power up blue, and to get actual noise coming out of it. Made sure to flip the switch from speaker line input to RCA's after initial disappointment at the anemic sound coming from the line level mismatch. It's going now! Now to tune the gain and crossover...

@Black_Stallion13 - did you get yours done?

Thanks a million (again) to @rtd16 for finding this solution, making us the video, and talking the rest of us through your process. I appreciate your trailblazing here!

(Now no one tell anyone else these were made for hybrid vehicles)

 

[Black_Stallion13]

Got mine installed today! That took a LOT longer than I thought it was going to, and I'll be happy if I don't have to do that any time soon. I took my time, had to run upstairs probably 50 times, and probably overdid it with tab terminals & heat shrink at every connection.

I was so relieved to see that thing power up blue, and to get actual noise coming out of it. Made sure to flip the switch from speaker line input to RCA's after initial disappointment at the anemic sound coming from the line level mismatch. It's going now! Now to tune the gain and crossover...

@Black_Stallion13 - did you get yours done?

Thanks a million (again) to @rtd16 for finding this solution, making us the video, and talking the rest of us through your process. I appreciate your trailblazing here!

(Now no one tell anyone else these were made for hybrid vehicles)

I started getting things together today. Similar to you I'm going overboard with connections - heat shrinking and/or posi taps for all connections. I need two more positaps to finish so just waiting on the Amazon man to arrive tomorrow to put it back together. So are you saying you have the switch on the RCA setting even though you did the splice in?

 

[negativezero]

So are you saying you have the switch on the RCA setting even though you did the splice in?

Yup, exactly. I lopped off the RCA heads and split the remaining wire, put terminations on them, and wired them each to a bound pair of speaker wire, and spliced each single wire to the color-indicated wires just upstream of the 6.5" speaker.

I'm not a car audio guy, but I fully expected that to indicate that this was speaker-line levels. However, trying it that way was unbelievably frail, to the tune of the sub barely making noise. Checked all connections, checked that everything was in phase, etc. The only way I could get volume out of it was on the RCA side.

 

[Black_Stallion13]

Yup, exactly. I lopped off the RCA heads and split the remaining wire, put terminations on them, and wired them each to a bound pair of speaker wire, and spliced each single wire to the color-indicated wires just upstream of the 6.5" speaker.

I'm not a car audio guy, but I fully expected that to indicate that this was speaker-line levels. However, trying it that way was unbelievably frail, to the tune of the sub barely making noise. Checked all connections, checked that everything was in phase, etc. The only way I could get volume out of it was on the RCA side.

Got it all installed today and "WOW" is all I can say! Everybody should do this mod immediately lol

This little sub paired straight up with Kicker CS speakers sounds absolutely amazing.

I played with the sound quite a bit and found that setting the factory SYNC equalizer to the middle setting for Treble, Midrange, and Bass in conjunction with setting the subwoofer switch to "line", gain to about 75%, and freq just under 50% (about 80 hz) gets things sounding pretty damn nice and crisp.

May look into actually mounting it tight to the floor because if you press the subwoofer downward the sound is even a bit better. I have the rubber floor mats so some frequencies can cause them to vibrate.

 

[Chirico]

Installed a sub last Saturday and just wanted to thank you this forum and a couple of members who helped me along the way.
Thank you @rtd16, @Frankie945 and Crutchfield customer service.

Ended up installing JBL BassPro Nano under the driver's seat.
Not fully concealed due to the little hump (rubber floor) though.

It took me more than 5 hours. Much longer than expected.
But I am TOTALLY new to this (Not a car/ audio guy) and I took time to make sure that all is safely and cleanly done.
I was very nervous when disconnecting the battery ; and poking through the firewall. But it came out all good in the end.

Since Key 200.4 installed and DSP set already, I tapped into PNP harness to take high-level input before the amp.
And ran wires through door sill (Power and Ground) and center console (speaker wires).

The little sub is really moving the air, but I still need to spend more time on settings (Tried a quick gain matching and etc but not really happy with it. Any advice?)

Thank you again all.

Regards,

 

[Jazer]

I am really curious about this sub, as I just want more bass to round out the audio (not trying to rattle windows). I am torn between this and the Kicker hideaway. Both seem to be about what I am looking for, but I am really against tapping into the OE wiring harness. I have Kicker CS series in the front (kick panel installed and dash once my bass blockers arrive tomorrow).. with pigtails. Is there any way to tap into the pigtails vs the car's wiring harness?

 

[Chirico]

I am really curious about this sub, as I just want more bass to round out the audio (not trying to rattle windows). I am torn between this and the Kicker hideaway. Both seem to be about what I am looking for, but I am really against tapping into the OE wiring harness. I have Kicker CS series in the front (kick panel installed and dash once my bass blockers arrive tomorrow).. with pigtails. Is there any way to tap into the pigtails vs the car's wiring harness?

In my case, I tapped into (with Posi taps) PNP harness (Key 200.4 amp installed), so I can get the signal before the amp.
If you are not using an amp, you can definitely tap into the aftermarket speaker harness (I guess you are using Metra 72-5602?).
I checked with Crutchfield before installation, and this was what they recommended.
No reason to damage/ modify the stock wirings.

 

[Billnchristy]

Can someone show some pics of it under the seat? I cannot for the life of me see how it would fit.

 

[menikmati]

Can someone show some pics of it under the seat? I cannot for the life of me see how it would fit.

If you have power seats, there is no room. Manual seats look like they could fit a WeBoost or GMRS or amp or very small sub.

 

[Jazer]

In my case, I tapped into (with Posi taps) PNP harness (Key 200.4 amp installed), so I can get the signal before the amp.
If you are not using an amp, you can definitely tap into the aftermarket speaker harness (I guess you are using Metra 72-5602?).
I checked with Crutchfield before installation, and this was what they recommended.
No reason to damage/ modify the stock wirings.

Thank you. That's perfect, and what I assumed but I wasn't sure if there was anything else that it needed signal wise.

Really torn between this & the kicker hideaway. If I'm spending around that price point, Im wondering if spending a bit more is worth it or not for the extra bass I'm assuming you get out of that sub vs this. This one seems far more economical in both size & install. I'm just wondering If I'd be happy with it long term. Anyone have any comparisons to other subs/or any more video that shows a decent example of how it effects the sound?

Sponsored