ICON Complete Coilover Suspension Systems (Stages 3 through 8)

[Defyfate11]

Because of the clearance issues that some have experienced.

With your wheels at full lock and your suspension at droop make a sharpie mark where the contact is, then raise the suspension (LCA) and rotate the RPG tie rod 180 degrees and use a grinder, and your done in less than 5 mins. Plenty of meat on those Tie Rods way stronger than stock even with a collar brace on.

Sponsored

 

[DREWR13]

Not directly related to the icon's but what would cause my Bronco to lean to the driver side if the coilovers are equal in height. I counted threads on both sides up front and they are equal.

 

[Defyfate11]

Not directly related to the icon's but what would cause my Bronco to lean to the driver side if the coilovers are equal in height. I counted threads on both sides up front and they are equal.

The best thing to do is contact the company of the aftermarket coilovers you purchased from. Just to get any feedback they have received from their customers. Other than that I would make sure that the coil overs are fully seated (tophat). After the two above suggestions, a proper alignment is a must. Finally, it comes down to vehicle weight distribution (gas tank, etc) and Coilover preload (If all three corners have more preload it could cause a sag in one corner). ICON usually has their Coilovers set for (Stock) vehicle applications so some adjustment for a front wench and bumper is required. Speaking of aftermarket bumper be sure that at no time did you make adjustments to the front body bushing. Any kind of mods that either removed or altered the front body bushing could alter your cab's position.

 

[DREWR13]

Top hats are seated properly and its been aligned professionally. Thought about just jacking the front up and adjusting the height on the coil until it sits level. Just not sure if thats the best idea.

 

[Defyfate11]

Top hats are seated properly and its been aligned professionally. Thought about just jacking the front up and adjusting the height on the coil until it sits level. Just not sure if thats the best idea.

If you have the Coilover wrench that is exactly what it's for. Just wanted you to look at everything else before adjusting. It takes a bit of time to adjust while on the vehicle but if you remove the tire there should be plenty of room to work in and I would put some blue tape (Small strip) on the top hat and the collar and on a piece of paper scratch a line for each full rotation you make i.e. I I I I. Let us know how it turns out

 

[DREWR13]

If you have the Coilover wrench that is exactly what it's for. Just wanted you to look at everything else before adjusting. It takes a bit of time to adjust while on the vehicle but if you remove the tire there should be plenty of room to work in and I would put some blue tape (Small strip) on the top hat and the collar and on a piece of paper scratch a line for each full rotation you make i.e. I I I I. Let us know how it turns out

Thank you. I'll mess with it soon and see what I can come up with.

 

[kodiakisland]

Top hats are seated properly and its been aligned professionally. Thought about just jacking the front up and adjusting the height on the coil until it sits level. Just not sure if thats the best idea.

Yeah, just adjust one side up or down. Weight is not distributed equally from side to side and you just adjust once things have settled. Completely normal. I think my drivers side is two threads more than passenger.

Takes me less than 5 mins to adjust as I can with the tire on. Just jack up that side to full droop and give it a few turns. WD40 goes a long way to easing the process and protecting the threads.

 

[DREWR13]

ok cool. I measured and the driver front is 3/4in lower from ground to fender than the passenger front. Rear is about 1/2in lower.

 

[kodiakisland]

ok cool. I measured and the driver front is 3/4in lower from ground to fender than the passenger front. Rear is about 1/2in lower.

There are variations in tires, so best to measure center hub to metal fender for most accurate measure.

 

[kodiakisland]

Really happy with rear articulation but the front is bound by the factory sway bar.
These pics are all rear droop and stuff. Wasn’t much of a reason to take a picture of the front.

 

[DREWR13]

Agreed rear droop is very nice and I LOVE how smooth everything is off-road now.

 

[Merc4x4]

Great pics!
Maximizing rear articulation is like #2 criteria for me on a replacement suspension system.
#1 would be not degrading the on-road composure of the factory Sasquatch suspension.

 

[DREWR13]

Great pics!
Maximizing rear articulation is like #2 criteria for me on a replacement suspension system.
#1 would be not degrading the on-road composure of the factory Sasquatch suspension.

on road my Bronco drives just like factory, maybe even a little smoother. And that's with 37's. I was pleasantly surprised at the on road drive characteristics.

 

[Dusty at ICON]

Hi everybody, I've been away for the last week, out to Colorado for Bronco Super Celebration, so I haven't had a chance to check in to this thread for a while. I'm glad to see everyone is behaving LOL.

For anyone still having clearance issues with tie rods and our coilovers, as you may have read in this thread we are more than willing to work with you to find a solution that suits you. Just give our customer service specialist Scott an email at [email protected] and he can get it sorted out.

I did get the opportunity to chat with the guys from Broncbuster while we were out at Super Cel, and they were also sympathetic to this issue, even indicating they might take a new look at their tie rod braces to see if they can streamline those a little bit to fit better with non-stock coilovers.

For what it's worth, I drove the ICON 4-door Bronco all the way to Colorado and back, riding on our coilovers with the CDEV system, and it rode awesome. While at the event, my wife and I switched to driving our 2-door on ICON EXP's on the trails (it rode out there inside ICON's semi trailer), while Scott and Justin drove the 4-door.

Here are a couple of pics from Super Cel:

 

[kodiakisland]

Great pics!
Maximizing rear articulation is like #2 criteria for me on a replacement suspension system.
#1 would be not degrading the on-road composure of the factory Sasquatch suspension.

Everything is a compromise. Usually off road performance as at the expense of on road performance. Any change is going to be different. Maybe better, worse, or just different than factory. Many people go through a couple of changes before they find what they are looking for.

I would say if factory ride is the most important, I wouldn't change it until you need to. I started changing things because I was always lifting a rear tire. I've done several things to increase articulation, but it's at the expense of on road performance. Now, my highway ride at 75mph is still good, it's just different. I still need my vehicle to make long cross country trips and then perform off road once I get where I'm going. It's all a compromise.

The Icons, or any other coilovers, probably won't feel like the factory setup, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.

If factory ride but increased rear movement is your focus, I'd start with the upper and lower rear trailing arms and rear track bar. The factory hard rubber bushings don't allow much movement. Replacing with uniballs, johnny joints, etc. will allow the axle to move quit a bit more but still maintain the factory coilovers.

Sponsored