Year 23 Factory Sub Delete - Is amp there already and I can just add a sub?

[Mscdman]

I’m confused on this factory sub delete option I have. I’ve verified I got a $250 credit for the 6 speaker sub delete.

I don’t need slamming base and would be happy with a basic subwoofer that was deleted.

my questions:
1) is there a factory enclosure I have to mount a sub to or does that need to be purchased?

2) is the amp to
Power this to be bought sub already there with the wiring and I just need to add a sub?

2) if the amp is not there is the wiring already there so that I can just plug and play the amp and the sub?

again trying to do
This the easiest way possible without having to rewire if possible.

Sponsored

 

[JKal]

1. Yes factory enclosurre you can use
2. No amp present
3. Not sure about wiring but there are a few people on here who have used the existing enclosure.
RagnarKon has a few good videos about this on YouTube. Check it out.

 

[GroovyGeek]

There is a LONG thread on the topic here that tells you everything you need to know. Younget dummy versions of the sub and amp. All wiring is present and ready to go but must be enabled in Forsdan. You buy the amp and a good replacement sub such as Kicker. Part numbers, Forscan config, installation procedures are on the thread. As long as you are pulling all the plastic off use the opportunity to add kilmat back there.

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

Search really is your friend here but, horses and water and all that, I guess.

my questions:
1) is there a factory enclosure I have to mount a sub to or does that need to be purchased?
There is a factory enclosure. It has a non-functional subwoofer in it wired up to a non-functional subwoofer amp.

2) is the amp to
Power this to be bought sub already there with the wiring and I just need to add a sub?
You will need to replace both the subwoofer and the subwoofer amp. This is extensively documented in one of the threads detailing just this but the fastest path to getting up and running with minimal modification is to get the 6.75" Kicker subwoofer (consensus seems to be go for the 2 ohm vs the 4) paired with the "Fusion" amp. There's no provider called Fusion, it's referred to that here as a member found that the sub amp in a Ford Fusion seemed to be identical to the one in the Bronco.

2) if the amp is not there is the wiring already there so that I can just plug and play the amp and the sub?
If you go with the "Fusion" amp and a speaker that's mostly a drop-in for the cutout in the stock enclosure (like the Kicker) the wiring is pretty much done for you by Ford. You *will* need to use something like Forscan (again, SIYF) to alter some settings to enable the sub to the head unit.

 

[Mscdman]

Search really is your friend here but, horses and water and all that, I guess.

my questions:
1) is there a factory enclosure I have to mount a sub to or does that need to be purchased?
There is a factory enclosure. It has a non-functional subwoofer in it wired up to a non-functional subwoofer amp.

2) is the amp to
Power this to be bought sub already there with the wiring and I just need to add a sub?
You will need to replace both the subwoofer and the subwoofer amp. This is extensively documented in one of the threads detailing just this but the fastest path to getting up and running with minimal modification is to get the 6.75" Kicker subwoofer (consensus seems to be go for the 2 ohm vs the 4) paired with the "Fusion" amp. There's no provider called Fusion, it's referred to that here as a member found that the sub amp in a Ford Fusion seemed to be identical to the one in the Bronco.

2) if the amp is not there is the wiring already there so that I can just plug and play the amp and the sub?
If you go with the "Fusion" amp and a speaker that's mostly a drop-in for the cutout in the stock enclosure (like the Kicker) the wiring is pretty much done for you by Ford. You *will* need to use something like Forscan (again, SIYF) to alter some settings to enable the sub to the head unit.

This is great thank you. I’ll go that route.

 

[Mscdman]

Search really is your friend here but, horses and water and all that, I guess.

my questions:
1) is there a factory enclosure I have to mount a sub to or does that need to be purchased?
There is a factory enclosure. It has a non-functional subwoofer in it wired up to a non-functional subwoofer amp.

2) is the amp to
Power this to be bought sub already there with the wiring and I just need to add a sub?
You will need to replace both the subwoofer and the subwoofer amp. This is extensively documented in one of the threads detailing just this but the fastest path to getting up and running with minimal modification is to get the 6.75" Kicker subwoofer (consensus seems to be go for the 2 ohm vs the 4) paired with the "Fusion" amp. There's no provider called Fusion, it's referred to that here as a member found that the sub amp in a Ford Fusion seemed to be identical to the one in the Bronco.

2) if the amp is not there is the wiring already there so that I can just plug and play the amp and the sub?
If you go with the "Fusion" amp and a speaker that's mostly a drop-in for the cutout in the stock enclosure (like the Kicker) the wiring is pretty much done for you by Ford. You *will* need to use something like Forscan (again, SIYF) to alter some settings to enable the sub to the head unit.

will the 2ohm sub (vs the 4 ohm) still work with the fusion amp without extra wiring install or issues?

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

will the 2ohm sub (vs the 4 ohm) still work with the fusion amp without extra wiring install or issues?

Yes.

 

[Mscdman]

Yes.

Reading on other posts the 4 ohm is the better choice for less muddy and less boomy distortion. That’s what I’m after. Tighter sound. - seems like 4ohm is better for me with the fusion amp

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

Reading on other posts the 4 ohm is the better choice for less muddy and less boomy distortion. That’s what I’m after. Tighter sound. - seems like 4ohm is better for me with the fusion amp

Go for it.

 

[Mscdman]

Go for it.

Now if I can only remove that damn panel without breaking :/

 

[dingle87]

Now if I can only remove that damn panel without breaking :/

Yeah... that's a fun little chore. Many swear words were learned by my 7 year old that day.

 

[Mscdman]

Yeah... that's a fun little chore. Many swear words were learned by my 7 year old that day.

I wonder how much a replacement panel is if I break a tab

 

[dingle87]

Reading on other posts the 4 ohm is the better choice for less muddy and less boomy distortion. That’s what I’m after. Tighter sound. - seems like 4ohm is better for me with the fusion amp

Kicker Sub - Crutchfield

Here is the sub everyone was buying at the time. This is what I went with as well. I got the Ford Fusion amp off of ebay for cheap too. The Forscan step is going to be the most difficult for you, if you don't have access to it already. I found someone in a local FB Bronco group who helped me make those changes.

Good luck. For the money, it was a fantastic upgrade. I'm happy with it.

 

[dingle87]

I wonder how much a replacement panel is if I break a tab

they're just little push pin things. Your local Ford dealer has them or buy some off Amazon ahead of time. Not so much tabs fixed to the panel you will regret breaking. At least Ford didn't set us up for failure like that. Easily replaced and fixed to be honest.

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

I wonder how much a replacement panel is if I break a tab

If it's any help it's much more likely that the retaining pins will break rather than the panel itself. Like with all of this stuff these days using a set of body panel tools for prying/popping makes the task easier and reduces (but doesn't eliminate) the chance of breaking those pesky pins.

Sponsored