Winch mounting opinion

[Brian_B]

Looks like a good fit to me

Also, there has been some work done on a 3D printed cover for the Stinger relays to keep the terminals somewhat protected from incidental contact.

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[Umichigan1]

Short answer….fire risk. Winch wires carry lots of amps, usually 400+ at max load. Having control is a good thing. Sleeving your wires is also smart. Upsizing wires appropriately are good too.

While we may think trail related instances, it could be from a wreck driving to work. Also potential vandalism if your winch is hot all the time.

if you haven’t seen this, it’s a good read. Inside that is the back story to the parts list and a much longer “why”.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...d-electrical-parts-compilation-thread.102132/

Thanks!

 

[nolimits]

Looks like a good fit to me

Also, there has been some work done on a 3D printed cover for the Stinger relays to keep the terminals somewhat protected from incidental contact.

Tell me more. My Stinger is mounted upside down so it would clear the hood using the BAMF bracket. Probably not a solution for me if I were guessing but I would like to see it.

 

[Brian_B]

Biggest reason I used a solenoid - if I get in a fender bender, don't want my battery also exploding (or something equally catastrophic) because I just arc welded my winch cables to my bumper. I didn't fuse the line, so I only energize it when I'm using it.

Yeah... did that on my winch on my tractor when I rolled a log into it.

 

[Dover157]

Guessing you have the 2.3 engine? Didn’t realize the layout was so different.

What’s the scoop with the heat shrink tubes? Just take a pic before you heated them up?

I had a difficult time finding some boots that were the right size. I ended up using liquid electrical tape. Kind of messy and hard to control but a pretty good solution in that tight area. Locally available and multiple colors although I used red. I had to mount mine upside down to other fitment issues but you get the point.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Star-brite-Vinyl-Electrical-Liquid-Tape-Red/1001326662

Link to the relay I used:
https://a.co/d/dLehPku

Ya the 2.3, really wanted the manual so only option. The heat shrink was going to be used to attempt to cover the terminals but didn’t work. Will probably slip it over the ends of the boots then shrink it down.

 

[bronco_ed]

Pretty expensive vehicles, there are a few threads on folks catching their vehicles on fire.

I would hate to have something happen and know that I may have prevented by spending another 100.00 dollars. Not 100% guaranteed even an isolator can fail, but you have to draw the line somewhere
I will also shield all the wires with plastic wire loom….

Funny, I am sure the winch use will be limited but as said if you ever need it you will be glad you had it. I mounted one on a UTV. I was surprised at how many times around the house (in the city) I found a use to pull the UTV out to use the winch.

Just looking at a nice mounting point for the isolator now.(2.7) Seen one fellow mount right along side the battery. Looked like a promising spot. Ordering the addition items to complete!

 

[bronco_ed]

Short answer….fire risk. Winch wires carry lots of amps, usually 400+ at max load. Having control is a good thing. Sleeving your wires is also smart. Upsizing wires appropriately are good too.

While we may think trail related instances, it could be from a wreck driving to work. Also potential vandalism if your winch is hot all the time.

if you haven’t seen this, it’s a good read. Inside that is the back story to the parts list and a much longer “why”.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...d-electrical-parts-compilation-thread.102132/

This was one of the threads that caught my attention.

 

[nolimits]

Here’s a few videos that you may find useful.

The first highlights install of an isolator relay like the Stinger on a Bronco 2.7. Shows a mounting solution without a special bracket if you are doing just the relay.

The second is by MetalTech4x4 and more driven towards relocating the winch solenoid on an FJ. I like their attention to detail including some cable building ideas, sleeving, etc.

The only other thing I might note is use some caution picking supplies. Amazon has became so absorbed with cheap Chinese crap that’s it’s unreal. Plastic sleeving is a simple thing that comes to mind. You want something with HEAT & abrasion resistance. I used a combo of TESA tape & MGI Speedware sleeving for my own needs. I keep some extra on hand for all sorts of projects as I really like it. Also don’t forget to get a 90* lug for hooking to your battery; otherwise, you will have to cut your plastic cap cover.

https://a.co/d/bcPkqi6
https://a.co/d/bHqmDoo

 

[Tricky Mike]

I don't think this is off-topic, but....
Why is everyone so worked up about adding a manual/external shut-off to the winch and/or a way to "unplug" it? What am I missing here?

My wireless remote fails to connect sometimes unless I "power cycle" the winch. That would be a lot harder to do if it was direct connected.

 

[bronco_ed]

“Amazon has became so absorbed with cheap Chinese crap”

I go out of my way to try to find USA made products.
Not always easy on the pocketbooks

Thanks for the info on the wire loom.

 

[Metal-tech 4x4]

My wireless remote fails to connect sometimes unless I "power cycle" the winch. That would be a lot harder to do if it was direct connected.

I go out of my way to avoid wireless winch connections due to wireless issues. (Failure to connect, rouge signals activating a winch, etc.) If you use the hard wire to the winch solenoid your 1:1 in control.

If you power cycle a winch, you're using it. So it needs to perform right then.

The significant advantage of remotely mounted solenoids under the hood is they stay drier. The heat from the engine alone usually keeps all the moisture out. To plug into them, it's easy: pop the hood and plugin. I route my control cable back, loop over the rearview mirror, and through the driver's side window to control the winch myself as I extract myself or the person on the trail I am helping. (Jeeps included....)

After a trail run, I will use a wireless connection for my winch when I am re-spooling my line back in the parking lot. On the trail, when I need the winch to be what it is for, I always go hard-wired.

 

[bronco_ed]

I was in need…. Another great Facebook marketplace find! Less than 1/2 price

 

[bronco_ed]

Only one more item to go…
Just need the isolator. Then I can wrap this up!

 

[nolimits]

Only one more item to go…
Just need the isolator. Then I can wrap this up!

Below is some chicken scratch of a wiring scheme based on how I did my own adapted for your quick disconnects.

There might be a few things you need that you hadn’t thought of yet…..

1. Your positive power will terminate to one of the large posts on your relay. Then you will need a “baby cable” to go from the other large post to the battery. I think mine was around 24-30” in length.

2. You will want a 90 degree lug on one end of the baby cable. I bought some and cut to length and used big crimpers to do my own. If you want to order from BatteryCablesUSA.com they have quality stuff for reasonable prices and can put 90 degree lugs on (just put a note in the comment box when you order). if you don’t do a 90, you will have to cut the red cover flap on the battery.

3. Depending which positive battery terminal you want to land on you will need an M5 or M6 nut. I optioned for the M6 as it was bigger but I bought SS flanged nuts with nylon inserts in both sizes so I’d have for any future projects. As you can see in my pics, the flange isn’t as large as the ones on the factory nuts but good enough. These were a bear to find locally and I ordered through BoltsandNuts.com as you can order smaller quantities and I had an assortment of things I needed.

4. I landed the negative cable in the BMS post coming off the battery. There is an open hole and an M8 bolt fits perfect. I used a 25mm length (1”) but could have gone with a 20mm to make it a little shorter. I coupled with an M8 flanged nut with nylon lock. Again all SS.

5. Some 14-16 garage wiring to run the positive and negative trigger wires. I put ring terminals on both ends of the negative and landed on an existing body ground mount. I put a ring terminal on the end of the positive that lands on the relay and then spliced into non-powered circuit C. If you tie in like I did then you use the factory wiring to splice into whichever auxiliary switch you choose. Alternatively you could run a new wire. I have Baja Design fog lights in my bumper but used the factory harness and don’t plan on using circuit C for anything else.

5. Misc butt splices. May consider weather packs or deutsche style connectors at the AUX wires in lieu of splices. I chose weather packs which will allow me to quickly disconnect and reconnect to different aux switches if my future needs require a change. Good crimpers makes life easier for butt splices and if you do weather packs or deutsche style connectors you will need to make sure you have the right crimpers for those as well.

6. Cable ties of various sizes to help with cable management.

7. Other items already mentioned — sleeving, liquid electrical tape, etc

 

[GreyZ]

My wireless remote fails to connect sometimes unless I "power cycle" the winch. That would be a lot harder to do if it was direct connected.

What wireless controller do you use?

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