WARNING Wheel Beauty Ring Removal - Bronco

[Tacnav#1]

I had no issues removing and installing them after powder coating.

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[Dimitar]

I took my rings off with a standard ratchet. My only complaint was they were so tight I slipped and scratched the coating on the ring.

Honestly I kind of like the look without the rings anyway, definitely a cool look. I’ve had people comment on my wheels without the rings.

 

[flip]

Most grades of stainless are further from aluminum on the galvanic chart, and would be more reactive. Be careful with this option.

I considered this but not sure what series aluminum the wheels are which would then help dictate the type of stainless. Not sure if this is the exact patch they're using but it's very similar. The OE bolt alloy is either intentionally soft or not treated to the right hardness. Likely they're correctly spec'd but I've not bothered trying to see what class the threads are on the bolt or in the wheel. Probably a combination of stacked tolerance and material choice problems. Aluminum wheels soft? Threads may easily pull/gall upon initial bolt installation, then factor in the "patch" causing more stress on the internal socket and bam, wheels are junk. The other part is the socket in the head is waaaaaay too shallow for the tool and torque.

https://www.ndindustries.com/products/inert-threadlocking/nd-patch/

 

[Compta38]

well I was planning on getting my rings powder coated but I guess I'll skip that headache.

 

[Lifeliberty]

Soooo. I need a tap and die for these bitches... what size and pitch?

My thinking is that thread lock is more akin to enamel paint than thread locker.

So far i got the driver's side(front and rear) tire bolts all taken out, cleaned bolt threads with dental pick, used anti seize to reinsert. 1 thread hole is fucked and starting to strip the head of that bolt.

So now i need a new bolt and to clean up threads.

1. The bolts kinda suck
2. I think the bolt holes are not very clean(from manufacturer) and need to be cleaned up before reinserting the bolts

Missing my Honda today... i forgot how hard Ford makes you work for it

 

[B Miller]

Soooo. I need a tap and die for these bitches... what size and pitch?

My thinking is that thread lock is more akin to enamel paint than thread locker.

So far i got the driver's side(front and rear) tire bolts all taken out, cleaned bolt threads with dental pick, used anti seize to reinsert. 1 thread hole is fucked and starting to strip the head of that bolt.

So now i need a new bolt and to clean up threads.

1. The bolts kinda suck
2. I think the bolt holes are not very clean(from manufacturer) and need to be cleaned up before reinserting the bolts

Missing my Honda today... i forgot how hard Ford makes you work for it

So it's not just me.......

 

[Lifeliberty]

So it's not just me.......

I'll do the other 3 wheels tomorrow. My thinking is that maybe the thread locker hasn't fully set since my build was 5/13. I was doing so good until the last one. All hands tools. Starting with breaker bar then ratchet.

You are absolutely correct, it shouldn't be this difficult for what it is

I think it's just bad quality

 

[Lifeliberty]

Soooo. I need a tap and die for these bitches... what size and pitch?

I'm just going to quote myself since i didn't see an answer

10mm x 1.5

That's what the hardware guy said. Got the tap and new T45 bit, no die. Had to order that from ebay.

I think the tap is more important in this case, but having a die would make cleaning the thread locker off the bolts easier.
Will let you know how this goes

I almost think they fit so bad that they used thread locker to basically glue the bolts in there, and hoped people wouldn't notice

I still need a new bolt(head starting to strip), but i will wait to see how many i need when I'm done before i order those

My hope is after chasing all the threads I'll only need the one($10)

 

[Lifeliberty]

Found i had a die.

Excavating the hole with bad bolt. I think the bad bolt chewed the female threads

I'm my opinion, so far, it's the bolts. They really needed a lot of cleaning up to screw in smoothly. I cleaned up a good bolt and reinserted in a hole i didn't tap, it fit fine. So the wheel hole was good, but the bolts are sloppy.

I definitely wouldn't do this again without a tap and die handy

I wonder if it's the bolt threads, measuring them they are not consistently 1.5, not perfectly anyway

 

[Robb]

I must have gotten lucky?
had no issues with removal or install after powdercoating…

 

[gwiacek]

looks like cjpony web site has a kit of 24 bolts for $39.99

https://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-performance-bead-lock-ring-bolt-kit-24-fasteners/p/M503317KBOLT/

Service Replacement Bolt Kit For:
- M-1021-F15RB
- M-1021-RA1
- M-1007-W1785B
- M-1007-DC1785A

Vehicle Fitment:
- 2021 Bronco models equipped with Bead Lock capable wheels and Ford Performance functional bead lock rings.
- Factory Sasquatch Package wheel (765)
- Factory optional Badlands wheel (64W)
- Standard Wildtrak and First Edition wheel

 

[B Miller]

FOLLOW UP: After informing Ford that my wheels have defects, they said the wheels are not covered under warranty, only the tires. The representative said the Ford Dealership Shop Manager is the only person who can override this. They took a look and are going to try to re tap the holes and put new bolts in. If the bolts break, they will submit a request to have the wheels replaced. Not a guarantee.

My understanding is the bolts used to hold the beauty ring on are one time use only. If you replaced the rings, there's a good chance they will break off. If that happens, you're screwed.

I'll follow up again after the attempt at repair.

By the way, when the dealership rotated the tires, they had one lug nut that was cross threaded as well and had to re thread.. Waiting on a replacement for that. Ugh!

 

[iamkory]

Gah! Just ran into this exact problem too

Was removing my rings to have them powder coated as well. All came off no problem, then the very last bolt on my passenger front is basically stuck. Have been able to get it about a quarter of an inch out and basically immovable in either direction now and the head is starting to strip.

Problem is I’m now nervous to even reinstall the others.

Stuck, frustrated, and now not sure how to move forward.

 

[B Miller]

Gah! Just ran into this exact problem too

Was removing my rings to have them powder coated as well. All came off no problem, then the very last bolt on my passenger front is basically stuck. Have been able to get it about a quarter of an inch out and basically immovable in either direction now and the head is starting to strip.

Problem is I’m now nervous to even reinstall the others.

Stuck, frustrated, and now not sure how to move forward.

Sorry to hear that. I'd go directly to the ford shop manager to have it replaced. The ford customer service phone number was no help since the wheels are not covered under warranty. The shop manager can help with no guarantee of a wheel replacement if the bolt breaks off.

 

[Lifeliberty]

Gah! Just ran into this exact problem too

Was removing my rings to have them powder coated as well. All came off no problem, then the very last bolt on my passenger front is basically stuck. Have been able to get it about a quarter of an inch out and basically immovable in either direction now and the head is starting to strip.

Problem is I’m now nervous to even reinstall the others.

Stuck, frustrated, and now not sure how to move forward.

Put the spare on so you can drive.

Take wheel to dealer or machine shop.

That sucks.

If you remove any of these bolts i highly recommend cleaning(chasing) the threads before reinstalling

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