Uca's+ double shear= longer bolt required.

[Billy Goat]

I've got the Bronco down at a shop doing a suspension upgrade.
I was offered a great deal on some rock krawler billet upper control arms.
Part of the install was to put the uppers into double shear.
Now the factory bolt isn't long enough and looks barely long enough without the shear like it might not even make it into the nylon nut.
The Raptor uses two bolts, but if I was to go that route I'd have to cut the tube out that connects either side of the saddle
Currently trying to find at least a grade 8 bolt 13 to 14 in Long.
The only other thing I could think of would be to drill it, put a castle nut and a pin on it.
Know where to get a bolt?

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[CalvinT]

Do you want a grade 8 bolt which is how SAE bolts are graded, or do you want a 10.9 metric grade? Are you looking for a metric bolt or SAE bolt? And what size?

 

[Silver-Bolt]

How about a thin pattern lock nut?

 

[B22-2023]

Know where to get a bolt?

Once you have the info @CalvinT mentioned, then a Grade 8 bolt would be at any Tractor Supply or decent HW store in Ft Worth. Assuming your shop doesn't have a runner or parts truck who they use all the time for stuff like this.

 

[Old Codger]

Fastenal, the go to shop for fasteners.

 

[CalvinT]

You should also check McMaster-Carr.

 

[Billy Goat]

I shot them over to McMaster car, it jumped from 12" to 24" in length so we would have had to cut it down about 11 in to keep the double shear.
That said, we cut out the double shear and the factory bolt works with about a spin and a half to spare.
Their adventure series joints are pretty thick so hopefully help keeping from bending the bolt without the addition of the double shear.

 

[Billy Goat]

I'm just trying to help them orchestrate this stuff from Fort Worth because the shops in San Marcos.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

I would use threaded rod instead, cut to length. It's available in grade 5, grade 8 or stainless steel You could probably just buy a 36 in and cut off the two pieces you need. It's tough to find grade 8 bolts with the thread long enough after you cut it ...it's likely the shouldered area will continue down most of the way and the threaded area will be small or Too Short

 

[B22-2023]

It's tough to find grade 8 bolts with the thread long enough after you cut it ...it's likely the shouldered area will continue down most of the way and the threaded area will be small or Too Short

This is a great point I forgot, encountered all the time even in shorter G8 bolts. Just ran into it trying to add a long bumper fastener, one bolt too short (ie not enough thread showing), next one too long (ie shoulder protruded through the bolt end of the hole and had to shim with an extra washer). Threaded rod cut-to-fit next time.

 

[Billy Goat]

Just the person I hoped. Would chime in!
We considered using all thread but finding a hard stick was a problem.
We weren't sure whether or not the double shear would prevent it from bending anyways which is half the reason to do it.
For now, it's back together with out the double shear, in my endeavors I will look for the" perfect" piece. And assemble at a later date.
Everything is pretty much complete, rear axle has the pro x 4 link with the big tit for the track bar cut off.
Fox 3.0 race series re-valved for portals on all four corners and some RCV axles.
The next issue is RK sent tie rods that don't have correct ends on them, don't ask me how that's possible.
Stuck in limbo with their lead times for now.

 

[Billy Goat]

A big thanks to everybody with their pointers and suggestions. It's greatly appreciated.
I was a shade tree mechanic had to build my first vehicle from two my dad gave me. 2-50' internationals, I used to pick the school bus mechanics brains after school to get it done. When it comes to today's vehicles it's getting a little out of my realm.

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