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Trailrax Real World Reviews?

mikeeshim

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Same situation for you, if you can get the tent to scoot back to where the objects on your roof do not over hang the front of your rack, you will experience better MPG, less wind noise, and less rack flex and rattle. Hope this helps!
I tried one section back, but the rear overhang seemed a bit precarious.
The wind noise/whistle isn't so bad once I hit a certain speed, but anything between 15mph to 70mph is sometimes interesting.
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murphtron

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Hey!

Great questions. We use 1020 series Tslots which spec a .25" or 1/4" channel using 1/4 diameter hardware. I will attach a few links below for some drop in hardware!

https://www.mcmaster.com/47065T226/

This is for drop in T nuts, we would sell them but feel if our customers can skip us as the middle man and get it cheaper somewhere else, so be it.

https://www.mcmaster.com/carriage-b...stainless-steel/material~316-stainless-steel/

Here are carriage bolts as well that would work nicely but does require you to remove the Tslots to get them in, but once they are in, they can be used on tons of accessories.

Typically if you can find a Tslot framing 1/4-20 spec hardware, it will fit the 1020 series TSLOTS. Let us know if you have any more questions!
Hi @TrailRax. Question about t-slot fasteners. I understand the half-rack crossbars are 1020. Looks like I can use this 8020 drop-in t-nut with an M6 thread pitch in the crossbar. Is that accurate? And if the M6 bolt is too long, then I would need to trim the bolt so it doesn't run into the bottom of the t-slot channel. Is that correct?
 

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Hi @TrailRax. Question about t-slot fasteners. I understand the half-rack crossbars are 1020. Looks like I can use this 8020 drop-in t-nut with an M6 thread pitch in the crossbar. Is that accurate? And if the M6 bolt is too long, then I would need to trim the bolt so it doesn't run into the bottom of the t-slot channel. Is that correct?
I bought (Craigs List) a roof carrier that was designed to fit other make crossbars: I tried making M6 nuts fit, both triangular drop-in and different T-nut types, and they never really fit: either too large (wouldn't slide) or too skinny so I was afraid they might work loose when a load is secured to them. I ended up abandoning all my M6 hardware.
I put in stainless 1/4-20 T-nuts, about 4 per slot (8 percrossbar) (cheap on Amazon). I keep a small organizer tray (with secure cover) in my gear kit, which has an assortment of 1/4-20 fittings: bolts, threaded studs, nuts, eye-bolts (all stainless),plus a small 1/4" open crescent wrench. This way I can mount all sorts of fittings and gear to myTRMR, and pull them off for daily drive.
Example: picking up lumber. I take out my eye bolts and put a 1/4" nut on the stud, plus a rubber washer. I then screw 4 into appropriate locations on my TRMR, so they're secured in this sequence: threaded eye bolt into nut/rubber washer/TRMR slot/T-nut-inside-the-slot. Once the stud has gripped the T-nut, I tighten the nut down onto the crossbar (not too much torque--this is steel on aluminum). I can then fasten my load to the eye-bolt.

Here's what I'm ordering for my farm jack: I'll use 1/4-inch bolts, instead of the U-bolts the seller provides, and bolt it down to the T-nuts in my TRMR.
Ford Bronco Trailrax Real World Reviews? 1693968903326


Last thought: If you have equipment, like a RTT or Cargo Box, that commits you to M6, try different M6 fittings, and I hope things work out for you. I decided to commit to 1/4-20 for consistency's sake--no picking up the wrong size only to find something doesn't fit into it.
 
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murphtron

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Hey @BostonSasquatch thx for the detailed explanation. I guess what confuses me is the 8020 site indicates they have 10-series metric hardware (up to M6) that fits the 1020 cross bars. Did you try the 8020 10-series metric hardware?

I’m new to this extruded aluminum hardware, but assumed there are some standards , at least by a specific manufacturer. And given what you explained it certainly has many cool applications.

I don’t have the TrailRax rack yet. I mainly want a rack to mount skis. My existing ski rack has a t-slot mounting option and the hardware is M6. The bolts will be fine but I suspect the supplied t-nuts will not fit. Hence I’m looking for M6 t-nuts that would fit in the rack.

Of course sounds like I could just substitute 1/4-20 hardware. But I don’t want to drop $800 on a half rack without knowing if I can mount my existing ski rack.
 

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Hey @BostonSasquatch thx for the detailed explanation. I guess what confuses me is the 8020 site indicates they have 10-series metric hardware (up to M6) that fits the 1020 cross bars. Did you try the 8020 10-series metric hardware?

I’m new to this extruded aluminum hardware, but assumed there are some standards , at least by a specific manufacturer. And given what you explained it certainly has many cool applications.

I don’t have the TrailRax rack yet. I mainly want a rack to mount skis. My existing ski rack has a t-slot mounting option and the hardware is M6. The bolts will be fine but I suspect the supplied t-nuts will not fit. Hence I’m looking for M6 t-nuts that would fit in the rack.

Of course sounds like I could just substitute 1/4-20 hardware. But I don’t want to drop $800 on a half rack without knowing if I can mount my existing ski rack.
Check your ski rack and see if you can attach 1/4-20 bolts, or drill the mounting fixtures to allow 1/4-20. (See my farmjack mounting pieces, above? I might have to widen the bolt holes a little.)

Another thought: drill (very carefully!) the top of the TRMR 1020 crossbar slots, a hole large enough to slide in an M6 carriage bolt. Then, when you want to mount your ski rack (and who knows what else, later on?) you can drop in an M6 bolt and slide it latterally to where you want your ski rack positioned. Then you can remove the skirack, and remove the upright carriage bolts so they don't connect with anything (like your garage door) on your daily drive.

If you go this route, I'd position (drill) the opening location left side on one crossbar slot, right side on the adjoining one (there are two slots per crossbar). Note: 1/4-20 carriage bolts will slide in perfectly, my suggestion is to allow easy removal so you don't have to (hex wrench) remove your crossbars everytime you want to set up your skirack.

Now, here's the rub: you don't have your TRMR yet, so you don't know if my brilliant ideas will work for you. :( Maybe Trailrax (note how responsive their rep is on the boards?) could send you a stray one-foot section of crossbar to our good friend murphtron to experiment with. I'm sure somewhere around the shop floor is a piece of miscut, bent, or mangled extrusion bar. Cut him 12-18 inches to monkey around with, figure out his solution, and you'll have an enthusiastic, high-endorsement Trailrax owner like BostonSasquatch! Just slip it in a padded envelope.

Edit/PS: Note on Trailrax' post, above, link #1 is just available extrusion bars (crossbeams) of different sizes and types--useless to us. Link #2 is 1/4"-20 carriage bolts, which you can get on Amazon or local retail. I never found M6 T-nuts or drop-ins locally, and gave up trying to ID the right nut off Amazon, and consider it much simpler to go 1/4-20 on everything. Get some 1/4-20 bolts and/or nuts and see if you can adapt your skirack to that standard. And call Trailrax about a section of crossbar. They're very helpful--once they answer the phone!
 
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Hi @TrailRax. Question about t-slot fasteners. I understand the half-rack crossbars are 1020. Looks like I can use this 8020 drop-in t-nut with an M6 thread pitch in the crossbar. Is that accurate? And if the M6 bolt is too long, then I would need to trim the bolt so it doesn't run into the bottom of the t-slot channel. Is that correct?
You will want to use 1/4-20 hardware. We use 1020 series which equates to 1/4 inch slots for 1/4-20 or 1/4-28 hardware.
 

murphtron

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Check your ski rack and see if you can attach 1/4-20 bolts, or drill the mounting fixtures to allow 1/4-20. (See my farmjack mounting pieces, above? I might have to widen the bolt holes a little.)

Another thought: drill (very carefully!) the top of the TRMR 1020 crossbar slots, a hole large enough to slide in an M6 carriage bolt. Then, when you want to mount your ski rack (and who knows what else, later on?) you can drop in an M6 bolt and slide it latterally to where you want your ski rack positioned. Then you can remove the skirack, and remove the upright carriage bolts so they don't connect with anything (like your garage door) on your daily drive.

If you go this route, I'd position (drill) the opening location left side on one crossbar slot, right side on the adjoining one (there are two slots per crossbar). Note: 1/4-20 carriage bolts will slide in perfectly, my suggestion is to allow easy removal so you don't have to (hex wrench) remove your crossbars everytime you want to set up your skirack.

Now, here's the rub: you don't have your TRMR yet, so you don't know if my brilliant ideas will work for you. :( Maybe Trailrax (note how responsive their rep is on the boards?) could send you a stray one-foot section of crossbar to our good friend murphtron to experiment with. I'm sure somewhere around the shop floor is a piece of miscut, bent, or mangled extrusion bar. Cut him 12-18 inches to monkey around with, figure out his solution, and you'll have an enthusiastic, high-endorsement Trailrax owner like BostonSasquatch! Just slip it in a padded envelope.

Edit/PS: Note on Trailrax' post, above, link #1 is just available extrusion bars (crossbeams) of different sizes and types--useless to us. Link #2 is 1/4"-20 carriage bolts, which you can get on Amazon or local retail. I never found M6 T-nuts or drop-ins locally, and gave up trying to ID the right nut off Amazon, and consider it much simpler to go 1/4-20 on everything. Get some 1/4-20 bolts and/or nuts and see if you can adapt your skirack to that standard. And call Trailrax about a section of crossbar. They're very helpful--once they answer the phone!
Heh I was just considering getting a sample to work with. I’ll ask TrailRax. I have a friend who builds machines with 8020 hardware but he doesn’t have the 1020 series on hand.

I fear this will open a whole new world of hobby opportunities. Well, really, it’s my wife who will be fearful…
 

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Heh I was just considering getting a sample to work with. I’ll ask TrailRax. I have a friend who builds machines with 8020 hardware but he doesn’t have the 1020 series on hand.

I fear this will open a whole new world of hobby opportunities. Well, really, it’s my wife who will be fearful…
Please note, I wrote, above:
...Then, when you want to mount your ski rack (and who knows what else, later on?) you can drop in an M6 bolt...
With an assortment of 1/4-20 bolts and T-nuts, I can fairly simply set up eye-bolts for hardware, threaded studs for recovery boards, and rubber snap-rings for shovels & tools, and soon: my high jack. In summary, I found it worked to adapt my M6 fixtures to 1/4-20, and not force the M6 to fit the 1020 slot size. Maybe somebody with a very well equipped shop can, but not me.

PS: call TrailRax and see if they can spare a foot-length 1020 extrusion piece. My son builds electronic apparatus, uses various extrusions, gets them off Amazon.
 

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I've just finished installing the @TrailRax TRMR roof rack. Through a complete lack of planning on my part and admittedly poor forethought, I had a competitor's roof rack (which I loved, though it was heavier) that unfortunately wasn't compatible with my recently purchased RTT (OVS Bushveld--love it!). So, off came the barely two weeks old competitor rack and on went the TrailRax TRMR. The nearly brand new one will be listed for sale shortly.

All-in-all, I'm quite pleased with the rack. I tested it today at 75MPH+ on the highway (with the installed light bar--see below), and it didn't make any kind of noise at all over the normal wind noise in the Bronco at that speed. I'm very pleased with that result.

The only issue I had is that, when I picked up the rack (I'm relatively local--I live an hour away from TrailRax HQ), I asked the gentleman who helped me if the cutout version I bought would work with my lightbar (Rigid). "It will work with the mounts that came with your light bar." I know, again, poor planning on my part--I should have known the answer to that question BEFORE I ordered and picked up the rack.

Well, to my dismay, after a couple of hours of repeated attempts to prove the gentleman correct, I must report that the Rigid light bar cannot be installed with the TrailRax TRMR with the OEM brackets that come with the light bar. I know--I tried extensively. Unless there are yet other Rigid mounts beyond the two that I tried.

Here are two photos of the rack with the OEM Rigid mounts--please tell me how these could possibly work with the cutout on the TrailRax rack! If anybody has done this, please come forward and tell me, because I couldn't figure it out.
Ford Bronco Trailrax Real World Reviews? IMG_6648


Ford Bronco Trailrax Real World Reviews? IMG_6649


The second one seems sort of promising, but there is no clearance for the block into which the TrailRax faceplate mounts. And it's too low for the faceplate when it's in the mounted position. How could those mounts possibly fit into this space:

Ford Bronco Trailrax Real World Reviews? IMG_6653


I ended up using some OTHER brackets I had laying around from another application and drilling a hole near the top of the cutout (horror!!!! drill a brand new rack????) and mounted them like in this picture:

Ford Bronco Trailrax Real World Reviews? IMG_6652


I had to do this because this is my DD and I had to put it back together so I could drive it. I'm considering going to a fab shop and asking them to make me some better brackets to get the light bar closer to the cutout, but not sure where to go to do that (Northern Utah if anybody has any ideas).

Has anybody mounted the Rigid light bar with this rack? If so, how did you do it? @TrailRax, do you have any suggestions?

Other than that; I love it. I'm going to put the Bushveld on tomorrow (when I get some help--it weighs 150 pounds) and I'll report back how it works with the rack. I'm hopeful it's going to work very well.

Some more gratuitous photos. Here, with the Rigid light bar mounted, but well above and in front of the cutout. The bolts on the Rigid would APPEAR to interfere with any attempt to mount the bar in the proximity of the cutout. Ideas, @TrailRax?
Ford Bronco Trailrax Real World Reviews? IMG_6641


Ford Bronco Trailrax Real World Reviews? IMG_6651
 

cr117

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I've just finished installing the @TrailRax TRMR roof rack. Through a complete lack of planning on my part and admittedly poor forethought, I had a competitor's roof rack (which I loved, though it was heavier) that unfortunately wasn't compatible with my recently purchased RTT (OVS Bushveld--love it!). So, off came the barely two weeks old competitor rack and on went the TrailRax TRMR. The nearly brand new one will be listed for sale shortly.

All-in-all, I'm quite pleased with the rack. I tested it today at 75MPH+ on the highway (with the installed light bar--see below), and it didn't make any kind of noise at all over the normal wind noise in the Bronco at that speed. I'm very pleased with that result.

The only issue I had is that, when I picked up the rack (I'm relatively local--I live an hour away from TrailRax HQ), I asked the gentleman who helped me if the cutout version I bought would work with my lightbar (Rigid). "It will work with the mounts that came with your light bar." I know, again, poor planning on my part--I should have known the answer to that question BEFORE I ordered and picked up the rack.

Well, to my dismay, after a couple of hours of repeated attempts to prove the gentleman correct, I must report that the Rigid light bar cannot be installed with the TrailRax TRMR with the OEM brackets that come with the light bar. I know--I tried extensively. Unless there are yet other Rigid mounts beyond the two that I tried.

Here are two photos of the rack with the OEM Rigid mounts--please tell me how these could possibly work with the cutout on the TrailRax rack! If anybody has done this, please come forward and tell me, because I couldn't figure it out.
IMG_6648.jpeg


IMG_6649.jpeg


The second one seems sort of promising, but there is no clearance for the block into which the TrailRax faceplate mounts. And it's too low for the faceplate when it's in the mounted position. How could those mounts possibly fit into this space:

IMG_6653.jpeg


I ended up using some OTHER brackets I had laying around from another application and drilling a hole near the top of the cutout (horror!!!! drill a brand new rack????) and mounted them like in this picture:

IMG_6652.jpeg


I had to do this because this is my DD and I had to put it back together so I could drive it. I'm considering going to a fab shop and asking them to make me some better brackets to get the light bar closer to the cutout, but not sure where to go to do that (Northern Utah if anybody has any ideas).

Has anybody mounted the Rigid light bar with this rack? If so, how did you do it? @TrailRax, do you have any suggestions?

Other than that; I love it. I'm going to put the Bushveld on tomorrow (when I get some help--it weighs 150 pounds) and I'll report back how it works with the rack. I'm hopeful it's going to work very well.

Some more gratuitous photos. Here, with the Rigid light bar mounted, but well above and in front of the cutout. The bolts on the Rigid would APPEAR to interfere with any attempt to mount the bar in the proximity of the cutout. Ideas, @TrailRax?
IMG_6641.jpeg


IMG_6651.jpeg
Did your light bar come with any non-vehicle-specific mounting brackets? I'm seeing this in their installation instructions:

Ford Bronco Trailrax Real World Reviews? Screenshot 2023-09-10 at 10.38.52 PM


This kind of setup should work perfectly with the TRMR wind deflector cut out. It appears to be very similar to how I have mounted my 40" Baja Designs light bar:

Ford Bronco Trailrax Real World Reviews? IMG_8453
 

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Regarding the install, the biggest challenge I found was attaching the rack with the rack's wind screen in place. Instructions go over centering the the screen first and attaching to the first cross member. There is very little room to get two nuts on the front attachment bolts when the screen is in place. I removed two pairs of attachment bolts from the T-nuts on one side of the track. This gave me enough room to gently lift the wind screen to get access to the front attachment bolts. Care was taken not to move the T-nuts so the wind screen could be reattached at the same place as the original location. The process was repeat for the other side to secure the front of the rack to the bronco. There is enough flexibility in the screen to slightly lift it during this process without warping or damaging the paint.

My other issue was they sent two pairs of rear attachment brackets, instead of a pair of front and rear. If you watch Trailrax's installation video, you will see the presenter belabor the correct bracket orientation. Unfortunately, the shipping staff hasn't seen the video.

Went to the off-grid cabin in Maine for the holiday.
PXL_20221124_140649906.~2_exported_1669317945888.jpg
PXL_20221124_170924509.MP~2.jpg
PXL_20221124_120233312~2.jpg
We have the same build and you sold me on the rack with these pics. That looks real good.
 

drmdwebb

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Did your light bar come with any non-vehicle-specific mounting brackets? I'm seeing this in their installation instructions:

Screenshot 2023-09-10 at 10.38.52 PM.png


This kind of setup should work perfectly with the TRMR wind deflector cut out. It appears to be very similar to how I have mounted my 40" Baja Designs light bar:

IMG_8453.jpeg
I have all that except part C--the bracket. Where did you mount the bracket for your BD light bar? I can't quite tell from the photo.
 

cr117

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I have all that except part C--the bracket. Where did you mount the bracket for your BD light bar? I can't quite tell from the photo.
It’s mounted to the top of that front crossbar behind the wind deflector.

Ford Bronco Trailrax Real World Reviews? IMG_8626

Ford Bronco Trailrax Real World Reviews? IMG_8625
 

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Got it--beautiful! I can likely do something like that. Thanks!
This also points up how you shouldn't put yourself in a situation where you have to do something quickly. It was late at night, I was tired, and I had to get my Bronco back in driving condition for early the next morning. So I drilled the hole in the rack faceplate for my mount. A clearer head would have figured out how to do it like @cr117 showed up above. Don't be in a hurry and don't do things when you are too tired!
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