if you were to snap tie rod at thread area some guys put this over break and its a hold until you get off trail also
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Thank you for the video and insight!Plus one on this. We’re doing an extensive build and went with stage three from 74Weld and RPG tierods, but we’ll need that with portals and 40’s. Keeping stock tires going with their stage one is good insurance. Also keep in mind that not all bushings are created the same. This is a long video but highly informative.
Edit-DO NOT install braces/sleeves. If you do something that would break the tierod but have those installed, yes-your tierod will likely be saved. But you have transferred those forces to the steering rack and are now shortening it’s life. Think of the tierods as a fuse. If you keep popping the fuse you figure out why and fix the issue. Installing a bigger fuse or bypassing it risks burning down your rig. Don’t burn down your steering rack. It’s much harder to fix on the trail than a tierod.
I seen that on Matt's Offroad Recovery which served as a temporary fix to get off the trail.if you were to snap tie rod at thread area some guys put this over break and its a hold until you get off trail also
We’re hoping it’s a clean break for this right? Sometimes they bend before breaking. One might be safe in assuming that would make the installation a beast unless the tolerances are wildly loose.I seen that on Matt's Offroad Recovery which served as a temporary fix to get off the trail.
There was one episode on Matt’s offroad recovery where he had to cut and grind the bent section off before using the broncbuster brace as a bandaid. They were able to drive the bronco out so the owners could get it to a shop to get a new tie rod installed .We’re hoping it’s a clean break for this right? Sometimes they bend before breaking. One might be safe in assuming that would make the installation a beast unless the tolerances are wildly loose.
Seems like it would be easier to just swap out the tierodThere was one episode on Matt’s offroad recovery where he had to cut and grind the bent section off before using the broncbuster brace as a bandaid. They were able to drive the bronco out so the owners could get it to a shop to get a new tie rod installed .
actual it's more work unless you really know how to disassemble things and have toolsSeems like it would be easier to just swap out the tierod![]()
actual it's more work unless you really know how to disassemble things and have tools
the brace was pricey yes put very quick and easy and looks better then just thicker tie rods which still have thin thread areas anyway lol
Being in Northern California the terrain is so diverse you can pick and choose how you really want to use the Bronco. Since I am so close the Rubicon there are plenty of places to rock crawl and a lot washouts to do pre-running. I want to replace the rear bumper with a Turn Offroad rear bumper before I hit the Rubicon.i trail hop daily 36x12.5x17 exhaust air intake bov no lift no rub and i wheel hard mud and pre running no crawling rock dont like the banging sounds lol
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Tools for tie rod - big crescent wrench, flathead screwdriver, 21mm wrench. Maybe a hammer if you don’t want to use the crescent wrench or your forehead for hammering.actual it's more work unless you really know how to disassemble things and have tools
the brace was pricey yes put very quick and easy and looks better then just thicker tie rods which still have thin thread areas anyway lol
Here is a tie rod repair kit:Tools for tie rod - big crescent wrench, flathead screwdriver, 21mm wrench. Maybe a hammer if you don’t want to use the crescent wrench or your forehead for hammering.
You could buy four of these and a few spare tie rods to give out as gifts at your next bronco gathering and still be ahead of buying one set of those braces.Here is a tie rod repair kit:
https://td-distributing.myshopify.com/products/bronco-6g-tie-rod-repair-kit