I think the trail repair part comes down to experience. Personally I don’t think it’s a tough job, but I’ve taken them out I can’t even tell you how many times due to portal issues. So now it’s not even a thing. Same with steering rack. Swapped two of them on the trail now. Just kinda yawn at the thought. But the first time we swapped it out in the garage it took a minute.I’m a reasonably decent shade tree mechanic (but nowhere near a real mechanic) who just replaced the driver’s half shaft on my 2022 badsquatch because of a leaking boot. It’s a big job. I may have some of the terms wrong but here goes. To get the shaft out you must separate upper and lower ball joints, tie rod end, sway bar, brake caliper, speed sensor, etc. All to get the half shaft out of the knuckle. The nut on end of the shaft is 35mm. Running that nut out by hand will take some effort. I used an impact. The knuckle w/ the rotor is heavy. I took the rotor off to lighten the knuckle. Reassemble in the reverse order. Torque on the half shaft nut is 221 lb-ft. Bring your big torque wrench and a friend to hold the brake while you’re tightening it. I had to stand on the wrench. Several floor jacks, jack stands, and a helper. I couldn’t get the bottom ball joint loose, so a bought a separator tool from Amazon.
I just can’t imagine doing it on the trail. I haven’t thought through what one needs to do to get off the trail if Trail Mater isn’t around. Perhaps others with much more knowledge will chime in. Can you pull one apart and fix it on the trail? Don’t know, but you still have to do the above to get at the cv shaft.
A very good point. It was my first one. It’s good to know that a little practice makes it easier. I guess that’s how it is w/ most everything.
I wouldn't have an issue doing it out on the trail. It is a job but if you got the right tools, it beats beating on your rig to get out or paying that hefty offroad tow bill!I’m a reasonably decent shade tree mechanic (but nowhere near a real mechanic) who just replaced the driver’s half shaft on my 2022 badsquatch because of a leaking boot. It’s a big job. I may have some of the terms wrong but here goes. To get the shaft out you must separate upper and lower ball joints, tie rod end, sway bar, brake caliper, speed sensor, etc. All to get the half shaft out of the knuckle. The nut on end of the shaft is 35mm. Running that nut out by hand will take some effort. I used an impact. The knuckle w/ the rotor is heavy. I took the rotor off to lighten the knuckle. Reassemble in the reverse order. Torque on the half shaft nut is 221 lb-ft. Bring your big torque wrench and a friend to hold the brake while you’re tightening it. I had to stand on the wrench. Several floor jacks, jack stands, and a helper. I couldn’t get the bottom ball joint loose, so a bought a separator tool from Amazon.
I just can’t imagine doing it on the trail. I haven’t thought through what one needs to do to get off the trail if Trail Mater isn’t around. Perhaps others with much more knowledge will chime in. Can you pull one apart and fix it on the trail? Don’t know, but you still have to do the above to get at the cv shaft.
You are super qualified! I see a dead blow, a ballpeen hammer and f*(& it model!
Just bought this for $340 rewards points shipped to my local dealer using code SHOP425. Thanks @RagnarKon!
Hopefully!I stock the ford performance. Just recently I ordered a set of cv axles and they shipped me 2 sets… maybe you’ll get lucky too
I’ve been corrected on here before about how easy it is to pull the CV. 210 is easy, but the 190 is allegedly a biiiiiiiiiitch. And you have confirmed it.
