Shudder at 75mph?

[Nybadlands22]

As someone who use to work at discount tire, anti seize or an equivalent is what we used on stud threads.

Sponsored

 

[LockedBronco]

I have aftermarket wheels and tires with balance beads. ~34" Toyo ATIII and Method wheels. Anyone else experiencing a high speed shudder with or without aftermarket wheels? The wheels have a much bigger than stock bore but I am using centering rings.

Centering ring?
Do lug nuts match new wheels?
Any pics?

 

[KaneNorth]

Unless you bend the wheels.

While the 150 ft-lb is widely specd across Ford trucks to me it seems like way too much. I have never owned an impact wrench that would go above 120 and always felt being in the danger zone at 80-90. Are we sure this 150 number that nobody but a college linebacker will be able to duplicate changing wheels in the wild or even doing your own rotations

Doesn’t take a college linebacker to pull 150ft-lbs… I mean maybe a child or a frail elderly person wouldn’t be able to do it but that’s just a completely ridiculous statement.

 

[VelocityBronco]

As someone who use to work at discount tire, anti seize or an equivalent is what we used on stud threads.

Right from Permatex...use caution if using "lube" and torquing to recommended specs.

 

[Nybadlands22]

Right from Permatex...use caution if using "lube" and torquing to recommended specs.

Sounds like a cya on their part. Using that rationale, would that not apply to any and all things threaded that requires torquing? Ever tried to take off lug nuts that were dry threads that have been on awhile? Generally not fun. But hey, I’m no scientist. Remember that article when you snap off a dry stud after a northern winter or extended period of time

 

[VelocityBronco]

Sounds like a cya on their part. Using that rationale, would that not apply to any and all things threaded that requires torquing? Ever tried to take off lug nuts that were dry threads that have been on awhile? Generally not fun. But hey, I’m no scientist. Remember that article when you snap off a dry stud after a northern winter or extended period of time

I live in Northern Michigan and have changed more tires than I can count, never once have I snapped a stud...and never once have I used anti-seize on a personal vehicle or customer vehicle (when I worked in a shop). Impact to take off, impact back on with torque limiting stick. Check final torque with torque wrench.
As long as threads are clean, shouldn't have a problem.

 

[Nybadlands22]

I live in Northern Michigan and have changed more tires than I can count, never once have I snapped a stud...and never once have I used anti-seize on a personal vehicle or customer vehicle (when I worked in a shop). Impact to take off, impact back on with torque limiting stick. Check final torque with torque wrench.
As long as threads are clean, shouldn't have a problem.

I yield. Tire change champion

 

[VelocityBronco]

I yield. Tire change champion

You do it your way, if that works for you. I don't care. Just know that by using any lubricant you can over torque. Just trying to help..

 

[Nybadlands22]

You do it your way, if that works for you. I don't care. Just know that by using any lubricant you can over torque. Just trying to help..

 

[uncledoodoo]

The Sasquatch deal keeps getting better and better

 

[Nybadlands22]

I’m just playin man. That’s good information. I really am curious though how that doesn’t apply to every threaded torque application though

 

[Nybadlands22]

The Sasquatch deal keeps getting better and better

I’m lost on this?

 

[Toccoa]

This is why stick is best. My Sasquatch at 85 mph is smooth, perfect!

A manual transmission is an amazing experience, but it won’t balance your wheels and tires.

 

[VelocityBronco]

I’m just playin man. That’s good information. I really am curious though how that doesn’t apply to every threaded torque application though

It does apply, and if its a sensitive application, you need to reduce torque applied (25%-40%) if using lube or Anti-seize as to not apply too much force.
Some fasteners may specify the use of Anti-seize, so it would already be accounted for in the spec?

 

[JohnnyBronco]

It does apply, and if its a sensitive application, you need to reduce torque applied (25%-40%) if using lube or Anti-seize as to not apply too much force.
Some fasteners may specify the use of Anti-seize, so it would already be accounted for in the spec?

I agree, but that's like two of us. I have built engines and vehicles and know that using antiseize when dry is called for can result in higher applied torque than your wrench indicates. Or increased compression of the materials being clamped, which could be a worse outcome. That is one reason why engine bolts especially head are torqued in steps.

Using a lube on contact surfaces is a wise tactic, however, as I have had wheels on only 6 months require persuasion to be removed.

This is my first Ford or any vehicle with centering rings and I still am puzzled by Ford's use of these. I am not aware of any others that do not specify the internal hub diameter and shape to their wheel suppliers. Unless they are using so many different actual axle end sizes and using one wheel to fit all with several centering rings depending on application. And it seems like extra pieces when 6 or 8 tapered nuts in tapered holes at 150 ft-lb each would keep the wheels from moving even if there where an inch gap in the center. Or is it a case of the studs not being perfectly centered and thus the increased (as I see it) torque required since the studs are not perfectly centered in the wheel holes.

And if that be the case we should mark our wheels when we remove them and only reinstall in the exact position they came off

Sponsored