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magua

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You could, but if the recovery hook mounts or bolts fail (unlikely yet possible) the safety cables won’t help you. Ideally some secondary loops attached rearward of the bumper mount flanges would make the setup bulletproof.
Do you have the LOD or similar frame horn / bumper mount brackets? Those add additional bracing to the bumper mounts which have failed during recovery attempts.
I only guessing here - not an engineer by definition but I think those spindley wire safety cables would fail much sooner if the tow bar or something else happened to enable the tow vehicle to become un attached than the 6 torqued bolts holding the recovery points to the frame.
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AyeCaptain

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That's great! I am really glad my post has helped you in validation of your choices etc. The funny thing about the quick connect links is I didn't add that part until AFTER the first time I tested my setup. I found that the most difficult and time consuming part of connecting everything and disconnecting for that matter was the safety chains. With the LOD brackets hidden behind the bumper, you can't see the loop and basically I need to get on the ground to see what I was doing! Good luck, and if you have any questions during install, please feel free to contact me.
Hey, I’m about ready to install the LOD frame tie-in brackets. I was expecting that each pair of frame tie-in brackets would sandwich its respective frame rail on the Bronco using 2 long bolts that would run from the outer bracket completely through the frame rail to the inner bracket where each bolt would be capped with a washer and nut…but I see that LOD has included 4 short bolts per pair of brackets— 2 that independently mount the outer bracket to the outer side of its respective frame rail and 2 that independently mount the inner bracket to the inner side of its respective frame rail. This requires interior access to the frame rail tube to be able to thread the bolts and properly torque the hardware. Was that access difficult? Also, It doesn’t appear that LOD provides any torque guidance in the directions… do you remember if you torqued the bolts to any set specification?
 
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Sethtsmith

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Hey, I’m about ready to install the LOD frame tie-in brackets. I was expecting that each pair of frame tie-in brackets would sandwich its respective frame rail on the Bronco using 2 long bolts that would run from the outer bracket completely through the frame rail to the inner bracket where each bolt would be capped with a washer and nut…but I see that LOD has included 4 short bolts per pair of brackets— 2 that independently mount the outer bracket to the outer side of its respective frame rail and 2 that independently mount the inner bracket to the inner side of its respective frame rail. This requires interior access to the frame rail tube to be able to thread the bolts and properly torque the hardware. Was that access difficult? Also, It doesn’t appear that LOD provides any torque guidance in the directions… do you remember if you torqued the bolts to any set specification?
Hi there! You described the situation exactly how it is, better than I could probably articulate it. I will admit it was a bit of a pain in the rear-end to install these brackets and yes, access to getting the bolts and nuts was the problem. There is very limited room to work with and it was probably the hardest part of the entire install. I didn't torque the bolts to any set specs, and honestly bore down on them the best I could as it was hard to get leverage and I kinda did it by feel if that makes sense. I think it turned out well as I have towed multiple times and have inspected them each time to insure implementation. If I can provide any additional information, please let me know!
 

AyeCaptain

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Hi there! You described the situation exactly how it is, better than I could probably articulate it. I will admit it was a bit of a pain in the rear-end to install these brackets and yes, access to getting the bolts and nuts was the problem. There is very limited room to work with and it was probably the hardest part of the entire install. I didn't torque the bolts to any set specs, and honestly bore down on them the best I could as it was hard to get leverage and I kinda did it by feel if that makes sense. I think it turned out well as I have towed multiple times and have inspected them each time to insure implementation. If I can provide any additional information, please let me know!
Good deal… thanks for the feedback! I have already prepared the wife that she may hear a tirade of profanity coming from the garage as I am working! 😁
 

Fordified1

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I only guessing here - not an engineer by definition but I think those spindley wire safety cables would fail much sooner if the tow bar or something else happened to enable the tow vehicle to become un attached than the 6 torqued bolts holding the recovery points to the frame.
What spindley wire safety cables are you referring to? My safety cables are substantially stronger than any safety chains I’ve ever seen.
My Blue Ox cables are rated at 10,000# each.
 

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magua

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You could, but if the recovery hook mounts or bolts fail (unlikely yet possible) the safety cables won’t help you. Ideally some secondary loops attached rearward of the bumper mount flanges would make the setup bulletproof.
Do you have the LOD or similar frame horn / bumper mount brackets? Those add additional bracing to the bumper mounts which have failed during recovery attempts.
What spindley wire safety cables are you referring to? My safety cables are substantially stronger than any safety chains I’ve ever seen.
My Blue Ox cables are rated at 10,000# each.
Well since the only images with cables in them are the ones I provided in my post above. Secondly those cheap quick connects that are shown attaching the cables to that tow hook are the weakest link in the setup and I wouldn't trust my setup using them. I do not care what those cables are rated for.
 
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Secondly those cheap quick connects that are shown attaching the cables to that tow hook are the weakest link in the setup and I wouldn't trust my setup using them.
After reading this, I realized you were 100% correct, The quick connects were originally only rated for 5000 lbs, I have since upgraded them to much beefier 1/2 inch connectors rated at 16500 lbs. I updated the original post with the link to the much larger/ beefier quick connects! Thanks for mentioning this oversight on my part. Helped me improve the setup.
 

Skip

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Thank you for posting this. We pick up our Motorhome next week, starting to figure out the flat towing now. I have the 2021 Big Bend with standard bumper. Looking for a solution to connecting tow bar. But your post is awesome and think I have a plan now. 👍🏼
 
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Sethtsmith

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Thank you for posting this. We pick up our Motorhome next week, starting to figure out the flat towing now. I have the 2021 Big Bend with standard bumper. Looking for a solution to connecting tow bar. But your post is awesome and think I have a plan now. 👍🏼
You are quite welcome! If you have any questions, I will be happy to assist if I can. Good luck!
 

labattbluebronco

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Very good writeup on your flat tow setup. I too used the ready brute for my 2023 V6 2-door with LOD bumper, frame tie ins, and adapters. I have the charge line, break-a-way, and Curt light adapter. I took it on the maiden voyage last week and ran into an issue (twice) which led to the wife driving the Bronco back home vs. risking an accident. Twice, when coming to a stop, the Bronco started violently jerking back and forth. It seemed like the brakes on the Bronco were locking up and releasing even when I let off the brakes on my RV. After the first time 250 miles in and 30+ successful braking events, I noticed that my trailer plug had come unhooked from the motorhome. I'm not sure if the jerking caused it to come out or it was the cause of the jerking (charge line disconnect causing electronic issues with the electric brake booster?). I verified the cable to the brake pedal was not binding, Bronco still in flat tow mode, break-a-way wasn't triggered, etc.

Figuring it was an electrical issue with the trailer plug, finished the trip (100) miles without issue. On the way home, it happened again about 75 miles in, thankfully at less than 25 mph this time. I pulled over and checked my connections and found zero issues. I decided it was best to just disconnect the Bronco and have the wife drive it home.

Anyone else have a similar experience? Since the ready brute is just a mechanical connection between a surge brake and the brake pedal, I'm guessing it is an issue with the electric brake boost turning on/off rapidly? Until I can find what caused this I'm afraid to tow it so I'm hoping someone on this forum will have some insight. Thanks.
 

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Sethtsmith

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Very good writeup on your flat tow setup. I too used the ready brute for my 2023 V6 2-door with LOD bumper, frame tie ins, and adapters. I have the charge line, break-a-way, and Curt light adapter. I took it on the maiden voyage last week and ran into an issue (twice) which led to the wife driving the Bronco back home vs. risking an accident. Twice, when coming to a stop, the Bronco started violently jerking back and forth. It seemed like the brakes on the Bronco were locking up and releasing even when I let off the brakes on my RV. After the first time 250 miles in and 30+ successful braking events, I noticed that my trailer plug had come unhooked from the motorhome. I'm not sure if the jerking caused it to come out or it was the cause of the jerking (charge line disconnect causing electronic issues with the electric brake booster?). I verified the cable to the brake pedal was not binding, Bronco still in flat tow mode, break-a-way wasn't triggered, etc.

Figuring it was an electrical issue with the trailer plug, finished the trip (100) miles without issue. On the way home, it happened again about 75 miles in, thankfully at less than 25 mph this time. I pulled over and checked my connections and found zero issues. I decided it was best to just disconnect the Bronco and have the wife drive it home.

Anyone else have a similar experience? Since the ready brute is just a mechanical connection between a surge brake and the brake pedal, I'm guessing it is an issue with the electric brake boost turning on/off rapidly? Until I can find what caused this I'm afraid to tow it so I'm hoping someone on this forum will have some insight. Thanks.
I agree that it sounds either electrical or a software issue. Have you had the update for the ebb done? There was a software update that was released. Before the update people were removing fuses to prevent the ebb for engaging or vice versa. That may be what happened.
 

labattbluebronco

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I haven't verified if the update was performed but will on my next visit to my Ford dealer. I do have OTA updates turned on and the Bronco was into the Ford dealer after that update was released so I would think it is. I guess it would be good news if it hasn't been done as that would hopefully fix the issue.
 

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One last question and I’ll have all my info together. My 2021 BB is at 6.1.0 as latest update. Is there a way to see if I have the right software for tow neutral. Ford pass just gives latest. Thanks again.
 
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One last question and I’ll have all my info together. My 2021 BB is at 6.1.0 as latest update. Is there a way to see if I have the right software for tow neutral. Ford pass just gives latest. Thanks again.
I don't think you can tell if you have the flat tow update through the Ford pass app. I believe the dealership will have to let you know.
 

Skip

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I did put it neutral tow and out a couple times with no errors or lights and it rolled easily in my driveway. I’ll see if I can get it in to ford and check. Thanks again, I really appreciate all the help and information.
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