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Possible rack / steering (tie rod sleeve) failure solution from Broncbuster?

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I think the ideal solution is to have an upgraded tie rod that isn't as brittle as the stock one. one that will bend rather than fracture/snap under load. This part would be perfect to drop into your recovery kit for a trail repair though. I'd like to see what the failure point is after a truck is retrofit with both the Bronco Splint and the steering rack bushing. Not sure I would see this being ideal for normal running conditions. Lets see how it gets implemented in the real world.
I really think this is a good solution for 75% of weekend wheelers. Beef it up, run some 35’s or 37’s. Then when the wheeling gets hardcore, replace with some sort of street legal full hydro setup.
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I think the ideal solution is to have an upgraded tie rod that isn't as brittle as the stock one. one that will bend rather than fracture/snap under load. This part would be perfect to drop into your recovery kit for a trail repair though. I'd like to see what the failure point is after a truck is retrofit with both the Bronco Splint and the steering rack bushing. Not sure I would see this being ideal for normal running conditions. Lets see how it gets implemented in the real world.
If the Broncbuster vehicle (not shown in either of these videos) is any indication, the next failure point is probably at the tie rod end going into the knuckle.
 
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If the Broncbuster vehicle (not shown in either of these videos) is any indication, the next failure point is probably at the tie rod end going into the knuckle.
He responded to a YouTube comment that the next thing he broke was an axle. RCV’s are on back order pretty bad right now.
 

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That's awesome if a plastic bushing will fix this issue. Now I wonder if you add this bushing and beef up the tie rods, what will break next? Steering knuckle? :oops: If this guy puts a couple more trips on his solution with those supermegachonky tires then I don't have many concerns left 😁
Im completely new to anything with IFS, but I used to help set up other people's jeeps at an offroad shop. One time my shop was called out because of a drag link break that happened out on a trail. Had to replace the end to get the jeep mobile again. When we explained why we'd attached a cheap-o parts store drag link end to a very expensive chromolly drag link, we had to explain that we'd purposely built it that way because the next thing in line to break would be his sector shaft! Theres nothing you're doing about that on the trail lol something to be mindful of as we begin to beef up the front ends on these Broncos. Leaving yourself a relatively inexpensive weak link somewhere, and carrying a spare could be a good idea.

And because I honestly do not know, what would theoretically break next on the bronco's front end if you were to use better tie rods?
 
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Im completely new to anything with IFS, but I used to help set up other people's jeeps at an offroad shop. One time my shop was called out because of a drag link break that happened out on a trail. Had to replace the end to get the jeep mobile again. When we explained why we'd attached a cheap-o parts store drag link end to a very expensive chromolly drag link, we had to explain that we'd purposely built it that way because the next thing in line to break would be his sector shaft! Theres nothing you're doing about that on the trail lol something to be mindful of as we begin to beef up the front ends on these Broncos. Leaving yourself a relatively inexpensive weak link somewhere, and carrying a spare could be a good idea.

And because I honestly do not know, what would theoretically break next on the bronco's front end if you were to use better tie rods?
Been there, broke the sector shaft, carried a spare box from then on out.
Ford Bronco Possible rack / steering (tie rod sleeve) failure solution from Broncbuster? 33E53EFE-5DE3-4FAE-BD98-FA3B5A6F641F
 

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Im completely new to anything with IFS, but I used to help set up other people's jeeps at an offroad shop. One time my shop was called out because of a drag link break that happened out on a trail. Had to replace the end to get the jeep mobile again. When we explained why we'd attached a cheap-o parts store drag link end to a very expensive chromolly drag link, we had to explain that we'd purposely built it that way because the next thing in line to break would be his sector shaft! Theres nothing you're doing about that on the trail lol something to be mindful of as we begin to beef up the front ends on these Broncos. Leaving yourself a relatively inexpensive weak link somewhere, and carrying a spare could be a good idea.

And because I honestly do not know, what would theoretically break next on the bronco's front end if you were to use better tie rods?
Ideally the weakest link is the easiest and cheapest to fix.
 

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So are we saying that we sleeve the steering so that the teeth always stay in contact but then make sure to have weaker outer tie rods? Maybe ones that bend instead of break?
 

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Those prices are pretty steep...especially with the developer initially talking about how low margin he was going to make them. $350 for 2 plastic bushings seems a little high...and $750 for the bushings and the tie rod reinforcements is steep too. We'll see if it solves the problem completely with lift and 37s...
 

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Those prices are pretty steep...especially with the developer initially talking about how low margin he was going to make them. $350 for 2 plastic bushings seems a little high...and $750 for the bushings and the tie rod reinforcements is steep too. We'll see if it solves the problem completely with lift and 37s...
While steep I would say it’s market price. A TRE is about unobtanium right now. So even if they are $50 each, you can’t get them.
I’d also say it’s inline with medium duty Jeep replacement steering systems.
 

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Those prices are pretty steep...especially with the developer initially talking about how low margin he was going to make them. $350 for 2 plastic bushings seems a little high...and $750 for the bushings and the tie rod reinforcements is steep too. We'll see if it solves the problem completely with lift and 37s...
I’m with you. The prices do seems pretty steep for what they are.
 

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So are we saying that we sleeve the steering so that the teeth always stay in contact but then make sure to have weaker outer tie rods? Maybe ones that bend instead of break?
Speaking for me personally, I'm probably just gonna leave this thing alone when I get it. Carrying spare tie rods maybe... I'm done rock crawling. The same local trails have grown repetitive to me and I think I'll keep the stock tire size and not lift it. Just gonna use it to go explore new places and camp out of. Over the last decade I've built up a pretty reliable, strong, JK and now I find myself bored with rock crawling, and in possession of a terrible daily driver lol
 

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Speaking for me personally, I'm probably just gonna leave this thing alone when I get it. Carrying spare tie rods maybe... I'm done rock crawling. The same local trails have grown repetitive to me and I think I'll keep the stock tire size and not lift it. Just gonna use it to go explore new places and camp out of. Over the last decade I've built up a pretty reliable, strong, JK and now I find myself bored with rock crawling, and in possession of a terrible daily driver lol
Chromolly is cool though cause it bends and can flex maybe that would
be the solution?
 

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Those prices are pretty steep...especially with the developer initially talking about how low margin he was going to make them. $350 for 2 plastic bushings seems a little high...and $750 for the bushings and the tie rod reinforcements is steep too. We'll see if it solves the problem completely with lift and 37s...
First to market with a solution he's actually used on the trail. It is what it is. Any other options out there? No.
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