More Flex - Less 3 wheel Offroading - Rear Upper/Lower Control Arms

[Frankie945]

I’m running RJ upper& lower links with RJ track bar also have fox 2.5 elite coilovers. The oem control bushings flex pretty good. Like already mentioned your shock length will always be the limiting factor. I’d wait on those links and put the money into other parts. I’d only upgrade the links if you plan to get extended length coilovers or you’re not going to get the full benefits from them.

Like on that RK four link everyone says it adds more flex. I’d like to see an actual measurement that it does. Unless you lengthen the shocks it’s not going down any further. Might get there easier and keep the pinion angle perfect but not go down any farther then the shock stroke will let it.

Think about running 37s if your not already it’s the perfect size tire for the 4door Bronco. I noticed the most difference offroad when I made the switch 35 to 37.

Last thing. I carry a crows foot in my tool pouch just in case my jam nuts come loose because I’ve had a couple loosen up on me in the past these have been staying tight though.

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[telenerd]

Old thread. Did you guys end up replacing the stock nuts and bolts on the new control arms. I read they are single use? Or did you just use blue or red loctite on the threads?

 

[SierraBronco]

Old thread. Did you guys end up replacing the stock nuts and bolts on the new control arms. I read they are single use? Or did you just use blue or red loctite on the threads?

Man that topic is a rabbit hole that causes many an internet argument. Probably a divorce or two as well. So with that said...

The bolts aren't torque to yield, so to say they are being compromised from the initial installation is up for debate. Seems a common perspective is that there are many different variables that will effect the actual effective torque that is being used, so some might suggest that Ford requires new bolts to cover their ass. I have new bolts, but they are spares stored in the toolbox in the event one actually does break. Loctite 242, recommended torque from the factory, and a paint pen on the original bolts and nothing has broken or backed off.

 

[Brian_B]

Loctite 242, recommended torque from the factory, and a paint pen on the original bolts and nothing has broken or backed off.

This is what I've done as well. I did replace my drive shaft bolts, because those lil 7mm bastards were hard to get at and I deformed the bolt heads.

 

[87-Z28]

I have new bolts, but they are spares stored in the toolbox in the event one actually does break. Loctite 242, recommended torque from the factory, and a paint pen on the original bolts and nothing has broken or backed off.

this is plenty good enough for me. Unless I am installing 74weld portal brake caliper brackets.

 

[SierraBronco]

this is plenty good enough for me. Unless I am installing 74weld portal brake caliper brackets.

Just don’t get that pesky counterfeit loctite and you’ll be good. At least until the bolts just shear off or the mounts break in half

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