mObridge parasitic draw?

[brkdncr]

I was not successful in finding the ~1A draw on my vehicle that started a few weeks ago. after a few days of sitting the mobile app would tell me remote actions were shut off to preserve battery, and a day or two latter and the battery would be too low to turn over the engin. I was dropping it off at the dealership for recall work anyways, and asked them to check it out.

Battery failed a test so that was replaced first, but didn't fix the issue. They went into it further and discovered that the mObridge DSP/amp (B&O replacement) was the issue. They disconnected it completely and turned it back over to me, and the battery issue has not returned.

I've reached out to @mObridge only this past Friday afternoon to see what they have to say, but am wondering if anyone else has ran into this issue.

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[Brian_B]

Does it have adjustments for the auto-turn on signal from speaker input, or is it configured for an external power trigger?

 

[brkdncr]

Does it have adjustments for the auto-turn on signal from speaker input, or is it configured for an external power trigger?

There's no speaker input, it's a B&O system replacement DSP.

 

[Brian_B]

There's no speaker input, it's a B&O system replacement DSP.

It still has programming for the turn-on signal. That's what you should be checking. It ~can~ be line in, but if you aren't using it, it should be something else - like MOST or some external trigger.

 

[Doc TOC]

The dealership is going to be worthless on this, as they demonstrated. They don't know how to troubleshoot this device.

Whether you did the install or a shop, I would take the amp to a high-end installer who has the equipment to trouble shoot this. There are quite a few here in So. Cal. (car capital of the world).

The likely cause is the A2B connection is keeping the amp awake.
You really can't directly test the circuit without a special oscilloscope connection and tracker due to the rapid signal exchange and potential of damaging the circuit boards.

If you have the patience, you can use a multimeter to monitor the battery positive connection to mObridge positive connection for draw after you turn off the Bronco and it goes to sleep. Take a reading every 3 minutes to watch for it to go to zero. If it doesn't go to zero, then the bus is keeping the amplifier awake. Troubleshooting the cause (why) is a process of elimination.

A work around is to put an inline relay on the B+ that connects to the ignition. You don't want to use an ordinary ACC circuit to directly power the K2. The ACC signal should only energize the relay coil.
A 12V relay rated at 50-60A continuous. The continuous rating is the critical spec. Don't buy cheap.
Relay 30 to the battery positive, fused.
Relay 87 to the K2 B+
Relay 86 to the ignition ACC
Relay 85 to body ground
K2 ground should also go to a body ground, not the battery neg.

With the relay, you get an ignition switch activated circuit kill. The down side is the amp is off when not running the car or keeping it in accessory mode.

Again, have a shop that deals with these help you out. Troubleshooting a phantom draw is a bit of luck and time. You may have something obvious going on. I wouldn't jump to the relay as a fix. There could be something else going on in the Bronco you are not seeing or thinking of.

Good luck.

 

[brkdncr]

The dealership is going to be worthless on this, as they demonstrated. They don't know how to troubleshoot this device.

Whether you did the install or a shop, I would take the amp to a high-end installer who has the equipment to trouble shoot this. There are quite a few here in So. Cal. (car capital of the world).

The likely cause is the A2B connection is keeping the amp awake.
You really can't directly test the circuit without a special oscilloscope connection and tracker due to the rapid signal exchange and potential of damaging the circuit boards.

If you have the patience, you can use a multimeter to monitor the battery positive connection to mObridge positive connection for draw after you turn off the Bronco and it goes to sleep. Take a reading every 3 minutes to watch for it to go to zero. If it doesn't go to zero, then the bus is keeping the amplifier awake. Troubleshooting the cause (why) is a process of elimination.

A work around is to put an inline relay on the B+ that connects to the ignition. You don't want to use an ordinary ACC circuit to directly power the K2. The ACC signal should only energize the relay coil.
A 12V relay rated at 50-60A continuous. The continuous rating is the critical spec. Don't buy cheap.
Relay 30 to the battery positive, fused.
Relay 87 to the K2 B+
Relay 86 to the ignition ACC
Relay 85 to body ground
K2 ground should also go to a body ground, not the battery neg.

With the relay, you get an ignition switch activated circuit kill. The down side is the amp is off when not running the car or keeping it in accessory mode.

Again, have a shop that deals with these help you out. Troubleshooting a phantom draw is a bit of luck and time. You may have something obvious going on. I wouldn't jump to the relay as a fix. There could be something else going on in the Bronco you are not seeing or thinking of.

Good luck.

it’s under warranty, I’ll just ask mObridge for help.

it’s probably easier to point a heat camera at it.

I don’t expect ford to troubleshoot it, but they did isolate the draw to it.

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