MOBRIDGE OVERHEATING AND CUTTING OUT THE SUB

[thenewjs]

I have and issue with my Mobridge seemingly overheating and cutting the sub out.

My current (unique) setup:

1. C2s all around with 6.5s in the rear pod
2. JL Audio 13TW5v2-4 powered by a HD 750/1 getting signal from the moBridge and remote signal from the fuse box.
3. 2022 Braptor (I don't drive it much, mostly March, April, September and October top down months in the DMV)

IIRC did a remote with Fraser winter 24', I needed the Mobridge to send more power to a JD 500, I had installed at the time. Fraser also loaded the Bronco Tune, sounded phenomenal until temps rose with the change in seasons and my sub would power down and the speakers would sound staticky/muffled. Thinking the JD was not strong enough for the 13TW5v2-4, I swapped it out for a HD 750/1. Sometime passed, I didn't drive Bronco again till the next winter and it seemed like it was fixed. Temps rose with the change in seasons and it started cutting again. So, I took the HD 750/1 remote on off the Mobridge and used the fuse box. Same results! I got frustrated and put the Braptor away until I had time to figure out.

Now I'm back at it......I've updated the firmware, but I'm getting still getting the same overheating. I thought I would blow the C2's before I had any issues with the Mobridge. Has anyone had the overheating and remedied it? It hit up Fraser but its hard to get a hold of him, since he's one man for the entire US.

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[Dan-O]

If it is indeed overheating causing the cut out, which from what you’re describing is the case, it could be due to your chosen mounting location. I didn’t see you mention where it is mounted, but that would be my unprofessional first guess. All amps heat up when operating, mounting it in an area with plenty of ventilation is always best. If it’s mounted behind a rear panel, it will not get a whole lot of any ventilation. If it’s mounted under center console on tunnel floor it will not only not have much ventilation but will also get warm due to heat transmitting from tranny or exhaust. Under seat or on rear seat back would give it plenty of ventilation, even mounting under dash would still get more ventilation than behind the panels. I mounted my Kicker Key under dash above the glove box and have not had any issue with overheating even in the Arizona heat.

 

[Brian_B]

Mounting is a common issue - especially where people try to cover it with carpet (like under a seat) or cram it someplace where there’s no air flow or volume. Easiest way to test this is open up wherever it is and see if it cools back down and acts right.

Another issue could be the impedance of the speaker you are running — too low and that can cause an amp to overheat too. Usually a case with DVC subs wired in parallel, but sometimes multiple speakers run from the same channel (the Bronco does this up front). If this is the case you may need to rethink your speaker selection or wiring.

 

[23OBX2.7]

Probably overheat protection triggered let it sit for a few hours and retry. If works you know for sure.

The first thing I notice about this amp is the apparently flimsy sheet metal body compared, for example to other DSP amps in same price range, that have cast alloy bodies with heat sinks, vent cut outs and even fins and feel very solid. It looks home made...

Not much if any convection cooling behind the side panel. If it is over heat shut down try placing some 1/4 in spacers between amp body and mount panel (home Depot sells nylon ones that looks like fat washers) plus, either drill some 1/4 inch holes in a pattern, or cut wheel slashes in the side panel so there's an overall convection opportunity.

Last resort is putting a PC fan in there as well then, finally relocating or buy Alu extrusion with a bump or contour at home Depot and find a way to free air mount the amp between two sheet metal elements on the track....free air works great.

I had my internal fan sub amp free air suspended on two alloy tracks in a trunk well on the foam with cut outs with the well cover elevated 1/2 " just to ensure good convection opportunity....worked well.

 

[mObridge]

I have and issue with my Mobridge seemingly overheating and cutting the sub out.

My current (unique) setup:

1. C2s all around with 6.5s in the rear pod
2. JL Audio 13TW5v2-4 powered by a HD 750/1 getting signal from the moBridge and remote signal from the fuse box.
3. 2022 Braptor (I don't drive it much, mostly March, April, September and October top down months in the DMV)

IIRC did a remote with Fraser winter 24', I needed the Mobridge to send more power to a JD 500, I had installed at the time. Fraser also loaded the Bronco Tune, sounded phenomenal until temps rose with the change in seasons and my sub would power down and the speakers would sound staticky/muffled. Thinking the JD was not strong enough for the 13TW5v2-4, I swapped it out for a HD 750/1. Sometime passed, I didn't drive Bronco again till the next winter and it seemed like it was fixed. Temps rose with the change in seasons and it started cutting again. So, I took the HD 750/1 remote on off the Mobridge and used the fuse box. Same results! I got frustrated and put the Braptor away until I had time to figure out.

Now I'm back at it......I've updated the firmware, but I'm getting still getting the same overheating. I thought I would blow the C2's before I had any issues with the Mobridge. Has anyone had the overheating and remedied it? It hit up Fraser but its hard to get a hold of him, since he's one man for the entire US.

Can you resend me an email, i must have missed it. Just to clarify the issue here is the subwoofer cutting off right? If this is being powered by a separate amp It sounds like the issue isnt with the mObridge amp.

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